92 350 TPI, I installed HSR intake, Trick flow heads, and TES headers all at once. I have the Fuel at 43psi and timming at 10deg. I know it should have less tourqe at lower rpms from the intake, but I think the car has less power than it did stock.
When I acclerate slowly it starts to go them slows down then picks up again (just a little). It does that in the 1800-2500rpms. It also make wierd vibration which I hope are detination problems. It fells kind of like runing over some real small "you ruunning of the road" strips, except not that intense. I know the computer needs to be reprogramed but would it make it run that bad? I don't want to spend the moneyon a hour of dyno and tunning if theres something else wrong,and have to do it over again.
Any Ideas,

 

Holy heavens! All that on a SD car with zero tuning I think it'll run MUCH better with a proper PROM.

I'd get her tuned from PCMForLess or somewhere that gives you a couple tunes until it's right. Maybe I'm wrong, but talk about throwing codes, your car must be going crazy.

 

yeah, b4 i even read the post i was thinking that it was probly tuning or something of the sort....rippin is prolly right about the PROM

 

Stock tune....Speed-Density.....what a nightmare.

SD setups don't even like cam changes, much less heads and intake. Get some chip-work done and she'll run 10 times better.

 

It should run better than that...... SD is not that bad

10 degrees is way too much timing. Set it to 6* so it is back to factory specs. That should help with the detonation issue.

Hook a scan tool up to it, make sure you everything looks good, like no knock counts, BLMs, etc

The fuel pressure should be close to 45 with the vacum line off.

An aftermarket prom may get you closer, but you are going to have to learn how to burn your own chips to make a combo like that perform to its full potential.

Now check other basic issues. You changed a lot. Double and triple check the firing order. Then check all vacum lines and make sure everything is attached. Then check for vacum leaks around the base of the plenum.

I'm assuming you went from a stock configuration to the HSR. If this is the case, you eliminated the EGR and what not. This needs to be turned off in the chip. Again, need to start burning your own chips. Check out www.thirdgen.org and read through the DIY Prom board.

have fun

 

I've checked the firing order many times and played with the timming some. I'll go and check for vacume leeks but pretty sure there are none, and back the timming up a little. I'm thinking about replacing the stock injectors, manly because I don't understand why the #1 injector taps hard enough to feel it with you finger when pluged in and Unpluged. The engine does run ruffer when unpluged so the cylinder can't be dead.

Just a thought, are any of the injectors wired in series, so when I unpluged the #1 it also killed another injector?

Thanks for the help.

 

This post made me look at an aspect of modifying my car that I hadn't considered yet. I'm going to admit it now I don't know the first thing about tuning a car. So when it comes to parts and installing them i'm probably going to shell out alot of money. The Chip is no exception. Do you guys know of some good companies that burn chips and if so could u post them. I'm not really going to tear into the engine until this spring. So right now all i'm doing is pricing and estimating how much I need to budget. Thanks Guys.

 

I use www.fasterproms.com because they can do it via email and they are pretty reasonable. The will send you a chip based on your specs which is pretty close. If you get the Diacom software and cables from them and hook it up to your laptop, they can take readings and send you another chip. Take more readings and the story repeats till they get it on the money. Then you return all the extra chips and the laptop stuff and that is that.

Unlike the other companies, their chip is adjusted based on feedback from the ECM. Many companies just burn it based on what you say and hope that is close or on the money. I have felt there are 2 ways to do it. This is one way and the other is on a dyno while you take readings. However, without readings, it is all a definate maybe.

 

Jason is 100% correct. There's something wrong with the car - especially with regard to that vibration. Does it need to be tuned? Yes. Will that cure his problems? Absolutely not. I ran a stock PROM on my SD setup for the heck of it and it ran without the problems he mentioned. Mods at the time were 52mm TB, AS&M SS-LTRs, TPIS BigMouth Base, AFR190cc Heads, CCX 218/224 Cam, headers, blablabla. FWIW - my fuel pressure was set to 50psi with the stock chip. Open Loop idle sucked due to running rediculously rich. However, it was still within the capabilities of the BLM and Integrator in terms of fuel adjustment during part throttle. WOT was AOK with the O2 reading rich (900+mV).

Tim

 

I'm looking at buying a scanner, but can't afford hundrads of dollars for a hand held, and I don't have a laptop. I'm looking at getting a cable kit and some free software and use a wireless serial thing.

Then I can check out the engine and maybe burn my own chips in the future.

What gives you a knock count, is that from the knock sensor listen for pre-detination of something like that?

Can I rule out mechanical since it ran good before and I double checked the valves.

 

If you really want to go with say fasterproms, I could lend you an old laptop that has DOS on it