I need to replace the fuel pump in my '91 Z28. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I was wondering how hard this actually is. I know you have to drop the rearend to get the exhaust down low enough to drop the fuel tank, but I was wondering how hard that was to do. Basically I guess what im looking for is someone who has done this before and could help me out or even a step-by-step guide/instructions would be a tremendous help. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks guys/girls,

Eric

 

Try here http://web.camaross.com/forums/searc...archid=1036661

 

Its easy but very time consuming. First drain the tank. To do this i just unhooked the line and turned the key let the pump run and let it drain into gas cans. Then start removing your rear axle. its not a must to take it totaly out more or less just remove shocks, panhard bar, springs and any cables that might be in the way. next lower it as far as possible remove the two upper bolt that hold the tank in lower it down a little and remove the fuel lines from the junction then you have to fight with it to get it at the correct angle to get the filler neck out. Not hard just takes time. your better off removing more than you have to just for more room to work.

 

I cut a door in my hump area and I can swap out the fuel pump in my '91 in 15 minutes. Some people think cutting an access door takes away from the car, but you never see it and it's made of the same sheet metal as the body of the car.

 

Its a unsafe way to fix a problem and a hack job at that. You have to cut a high pressure fuel line and use hose clamps and hope they hold or have fittings made in order to fix it that way. Not to mention to do it safe and correct its going to take just as long. Without seeing your job i cant say yours is unsafe but its definatly not the right way to fix the problem.

 

Nope, nothing unsafe here, I've already been sprayed in the face too many times! My lines were all already replaced with rubber fuel hoses in the rear by the previous owner (don't know why?) . The sheetmetal "door" is held down with bolts and is sealed with a rubber gasket. I only cut it this way because I was stranded away from home and had to get the fuel pump R2 in a hurry. I had been working for 20 hours straight when the fuel pump died and I still had to drive for 3 hours to get home However, now that it's done, I wouldn't do a fuel pump any other way. I think GM should have made it like this from the factory. Of course I work in a sheet metal squadron, so I have access to lots of sheet metal and can fix any boo-boos that I make!

Edit: Of course, I paid $500 for my car and it needs a complete restoration so a little sheetmetal work didn't bother me.

 

one thing about cutting a hole in the rear like that it can & will down the line start leaking fumes from the gas tank & cause health issues.

Very stupid & very unsafe way.

 

Have you ever worked with any type of fuel? (no sarcasm, serious question) The stock fuel tank has a hole cut in the top that is sealed with a rubber gasket. The fuel tank also has a line that comes out of it connected to a charcoal filter that releases excess pressure, fumes, and vapors. I work around jet fuel all the time on C017 acft and they have a reserve fuel tank in the cargo compartment where people fly.The access hatches are sealed with a rubber seal, bolts holding down a metal plate, and RTV to fill the 1/4 inch gap where the panel doesn't meet the outside sheetmetal surrounding it. If that's good enough for Jet fuel, then I am pretty sure that it is good enough for 87 octane. Now I have never worked with regular gasoline so I am not 100% sure about it. But if the hole is sealed, I am not seeing how vapors,water, or even air are going to get in. Maybe I'm wrong?

 

Yes I do Heck I am not just any old chick I really do work on my cars.

& my husband has been an Aircraft Mech since the 89 & is currently a engine Mech for the C17s here.

You may know what you are doing but some people dont, if they dont do it right it can & will cause a leak in to the pax compartment. Thats all I am saying. Heck my husband will not even do that kind of stuff to our cars & he knows what he is doing because of the safety issues.

 

Problem is most of the backyard mechanics aren't going to properly seal it. Some selftapping screws on an old stop-sign isn't going to seal.

When I swapped my fuel pump I was already swapping axles to get rid of the drums so I dropped the tank. If I wasn't already doing that work I would've picked up one of those big "race car" access doors with a latch, neoprene seal and decent attachmeant bolts, then replaced the lines with braided stainless.

 

True, but sometimes I forget that not everyone will take the time to do something the RIGHT way. I actually went through the trouble to get nutplates so I can use bolts instead of scerws. I guess I'm so used to being in the military and having people check my work for quality and I don't think about the "good enough" people. I want my $500 car to be a show car when I'm done so I am using the best parts I can find. I mean heck, I am even re-wiring the entire engine compartment because the previous owner did a hack job. The engine works fine, but the harness looks like booty. IF you do an access door like I did, PLEASE do it the right way. Maybe I need to do a write-up or something......

 

Thoughs are the key points here, Please do, do a write-up on your door and maybe post some pics to go along with it. It would be nice to see this done in the correct mannor.

 

with two guys it will only take a couple hours or so.