The high temp switch in the passenger side head. The single wire connector won't plug back onto it. I think the internal connection in the switch may be dammaged / bent. So I need to get it out to see.

I get to it. Moved the dip stick. Remove+ from battery then moved connection wires on starter out of the way.

I have the 22mm wrench on it. Great tight fit. When I put removing pressure on the wrench it turns the outer nut face but the center part of this switch that the wire plugs into is not turning with the outer nut.....

Anyone had this happen? I'm a little spooked at whats happening here. Please, any wisdom/advise appreciated. I'm taking a breather for a bit to see if anyone can help.

Any help / experience appreciated please.
Thanks all.

 

Okay so it was my eyes and the short stroke I was getting on it. Its out. And I suppose it was turning from the begining.
Here it is
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...uestid=3763368
If the above link times out it is an Autozone SW502 so you can look it up and see it for yourself..

Anyone got a good lead on mating connectors for these??

Oh and of course the connection was fine so no telling what was going on while I was trying to plug it back in. But the connector is busted so I need a new one. DOH!

 

Mine did not have all the plastic hood like this one does. Maybe mine was broken off. Does anyone recognize this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-92...item29f812667d



as the one that fits the switch I posted earlier??

 

Yes and yes, those are the two correct parts. Both of yours had the plastic pieces originally but the close proximity to the exhaust and other sources of heat made them fragile and the plastic broke off with time.

You don't need the insulating plastic (I don't have it on mine), this connection is not going to cause any shorts if grounded out accidentaly.

Lou

 

Thanks Lou. I'm gathering parts now!

 

shing, this would be a good time to get a cooler fan switch. stock is around 220-235, yes iv seen them as high as 235 before.

hypertech has one that's on @ 200, off @185. the other one they have that i run is on @176, off@166. this will make any traffic driving you do much more cooler than norm.

one tip, be sure to NOT mix up he knock sensor plug and the fan switch plug. they are excatly the same design but diff color wires and plug bodies. i did this and didnt realize it. wont mess anything up, you just wont have a fan and your ECM wont know your getting knock.

 

Thanks quickchicken. Yeah temp switch is in the head and knock is I believe in the block, down lower on passenger side..

Might look into that lower temp switch too.

The link I supplied in the earlier post is so people can see the temp switch and what it looks like. If the link stops/doesn't work just go to autozone.com and look up an SW502.

Thanks again!

 

I would not recommend a lower-temp fan switch unless you have a lower-temp thermostat and cooler programming (which you don't need in the first place). If you install a 176-degree switch, it will make the secondary fan run constantly and burn out the motor. A replacement motor is expensive, get used to buying one every 6 months or so.

Lou

 

im running a 170 stat and 176-166 switch and havent had any issues. he can go with the 200-185 switch if his driving habits and area allow.
i also did this without having the chip changed and seen no diff, well actually my car was less "soggy" with the stat and switch upgrade when the outside temps were up. thats the only change i had seen in my car.

 

EFI CONNECTION for the connector part and back in with the original functional switch. Back in business. Thanks