I just overhauled it. Now it sounds like my lifters are clacking around 3000 rpms (just before it shifts gears). Plus it runs hot (230 deg.) if I don't keep moving and when it gets up to that temp the oil pressure drops to 15 psi unless I have the RPM's around 2000-2500 RPM. My performance is gone and it smells like it is burning oil but I can't tell from where. It has 150 miles on it since the overhaul. I changed the rings, pushrods, bearings (main and rod), timing chain, and all the gaskets including valve seals. I also changed the radiator to a single row radiator but the single row is as wide as the 3 row. it has a 190 deg. t-stat. It runs fine, except the performance loss. A friend pulled the distributor out without marking it so I had to go tooth by tooth until it started. It idles high (1500-2000 rpm, 1000 in gear) but if I retard the timing then it won't idle at all. My timing is supposed to be set at 6 deg. BTDC.

This isn't the first time I've rebuilt an engine but it is the first time I had so many problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx,

BOZ

 

I think the timing is still off. The "clacking" ur talking about could be a knock and if the dist. is still 1 or 2 teeth off the computer prob. cant retard the timing enough to make it go away.

i would take the spark plug outta the #1 cylinder and just bump it over till u hear it compress. then take the cap off and see if its pointing to the #1 plug wire. then u will know if u have it close or not.

hope this helps

 

Yeah, I was kinda thinking the same thing. The over heating, clacking, high idle, and loss of performance are all symptoms of wrong timing.

Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

BOZ

 

TTT

 

Low oil pressure at idle can mean your idle is:unstable or too slow.
If the idle is good and smooth, I'd ask, "did you put in new cam bearings?
They're sometimes over-looked and bleed oil pressure as bad or worse than mains or rods.
To check for a rod knock you can hold the brake and mash the gas, a rod knock should get worse...
Timing might be a more likely source b/c it's happpening at certain rpms. Rods are usually more at idle, and sometimes worse when the engine is cold.

 

Oh yeah, with a high idle the first thing I check is for vauum leaks.

 

I will check all these things.

Thanks alot for your help. It is greatly appreciated.

 

You probably have two (or more ) issues. One is the timing probably being off. The oil burning might be loose intake manifold bolts allowing oil to get sucked into the intake ports or head gaskets that need retorque. Don't believe it when they say "no retorque".

 

TTT