OK, here's the story:
In the process of replacing the engine oil pressure switch, I had to remove the distibutor (or just lift it up a bit, but removing seemed easier at the time). Two problems: I began lifting out the dist (about half an inch), then placed it back in, remembering to mark everything. Though I marked the rotor to the housing, I forgot to mark the housing to the block. You can guess the rest of the problem from here, I bet: I wasn't able to accurately place the distributor back onto the block. Fortunately, it seems that there is a guide plate inside the bottom of the distributor gear, so you can really only place the distributor back in the engine at two points: the correct location and 180 degrees opposite. I took my best shot as memory served me and tried placing it in, and it slid in smoothly. Here's problem number 2:
Though the rotor now seems to be in the correct spot and the markings between the rotor and housing line up, the housing seems off from where it originally was on the block. I fitted the dist cap back on the housing, and what led me to think that the housing wasn't on right was that the ignition wire retainer (with four wires still attached) wouldn't fit quite right. So here are my questions:
1.) I really doubt that this could've happened, but I'll ask anyway... is it possible that the engine could have cranked just a bit while removing the dist, thus throwing off my marks?
2.) The rotor itself seems to be in the same position visually as it did when I removed it. Is there any way to tell if the housing is in the correct position by a marking or something that was already there? It seems haphazard for Chevy not to have put some kind of indication that the housing is seated properly.
3.) If not, is it safe to rotate the housing to where I believe it originally was? It's not off by much, maybe 5 degrees or so; I can align it with the comfortable position that the ignition wire retainer would be placed on the cap. I don't think it would rotate so much that the rotor would be firing different cylinders (if the distibutor gear isn't lined up correctly), but it WOULD be off if I'm wrong.

Sorry for the long post; I just really need some help with this so I don't destroy a perfectly good engine. =\

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1984 Camaro Coupe LG4 V8 (5.0L 305ci)

• 700R4 Transmission
• K&N Filtercharger

 

As long as the rotor is facing the correct direction (like you said, it can only be right or 180* out if the engine wasn't turned at all), then you're alright. The relation of the housing to the block is simply the ignition timing. The housing will spin freely without affecting the rotor position.

I would reccomend that you put it back where you think it was, and then reset the engine timing from there. You shouldn't have any problems.

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Black 88 GTA L98
261 RWHP, 345 RWTQ
13.406 @ 103.72 MPH
ZZ4 bottom end, Edelbrock 6085 heads, LT4 HOT cam, GMPP 1.6 RR's, ported stock TPI, SLP 1 3/4" headers, no cat, Dynomax cat-back, Stock PROM
E.T.F.A Member #11

 

There is no "guide plate" in the distributor gear. There is a tang that engages a slot at the top of the oil pump drive shaft. But the drive shaft has a habit of moving when you lift the distributor, so you could be a tooth off.

I like to have the rotor pointing toward firewall before I pull distributor. That way I can lay a screwdriver or something along the top of the rotor and mark the exact position on the firewall (a fixed reference point). If you did something along these lines, then as long as rotor is pointed at your mark, you should be ok, and rotating housing as mentioned above is all that is necessary. If you didn't:

Disconnect power to ignition, pop out spark plug for #1 cylinder, and cover hole with thumb. Have someone bump starter till you feel compression in cyl to get it to #1 TDC. Get timing mark aligned on dampener. Then make sure rotor is pointing at #1 wire on cap. If distributor won't pop in the last 1/4" or so, slot in drivesahft is misaligned. Use a long screwdriver to put it where it needs to be. It is inline with the rotor. Some guys bump the starter to get it to drop, I'm a worrywart, so I use the screwdriver.

Edit: as mentioned I am a worrywart, so I guess I should mention I also mark the position of the vacuum advance nipple on the intake. That way rotor and housing are exactly where they were on reinstall.


[This message has been edited by angel71rs (edited June 28, 2002).]

 

I've gotta hand it to Chilton; they screwed me on this one. Not a peep about an oil pump drive shaft... Anyone know where I can get a detailed manual about an 84 Camaro, and not 10 years worth of F-bodies?

Anyway, I should mention that I'm quite new at doing this... This is my first time getting my hands dirty in the engine, and I figured that changing out a sensor would be a good start.
Knowing this, what you're suggesting I should do is overwhelming to me. I don't know what bumping a starter entails, or how to align marks on the dampener, whatever that is. ARGH!

Explain a little more, maybe I can actually do this, but it's a tall task for me right now. Or maybe someone in the Garfield/Passaic, NJ area could come help me out.

 

Bumping the starter: giving the key a short hit, instead of a long one like you do when you're actually trying to get it started. Purpose is to turn engine a fraction of a turn. As the #1 piston comes up on Top Dead Center Firing, the intake valve will close, trapping the charge in the cylinder. If you have your thumb over the spark plug hole, it will whoosh out. Unless you have arms like Kareem Abdul Jabbar, you'll need someone (wife, GF, pal) to work the key while you do the proctology. Watch your hands!

Aligning the marks: your dampener will have a slot machined on it's outer circumference. You should have a timing tab somewhere in the immediate vicinity of the dampener. Some bolt on with the timing cover bolts, others are tack welded to the timing cover. Usually on drivers side (you can see it between power steering pump and water pump), but sometimes right in the middle of timing cover (you have to look straight down behind water pump to see those). The timing tab will have a mark on Zero, and usually marks for 2,4,,6,8, etc.

Clean the tab and the mark on the balancer. I also paint the mark on the balancer white, and usually zero and the marks on the tab, so they stand out with the timing light.

So after you get the whoosh, the balancer mark should be near the timing tab. Use a socket to get it to about zero on the tab (make sure keys are on the roof of the car at this point). Then you see which is #1 on your cap and install distributor so rotor points at it.

I know it sounds complicated, but once you've seen it done, it's a piece of cake. You might want to hook up with a local car club. Plenty of gear heads willing to help out.

 

Though ignition timing is a little out of my league right now (I'll give it a try sometime, but for now I'll let someone else do it ), I was able to get a screwdriver in there and put the oil pump drive shaft in the correct position. I put it all back together and it all worked great. My first engine mission a success! Thanks for all the help!

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1984 Camaro Coupe LG4 V8 (5.0L 305ci)

• 700R4 Transmission
• K&N Filtercharger