over heating problem
WHAT'S UP GUY'S? PROBLEM JUST GOT MY ENGINE REBUILT AND IT'S OVER HEATING. I PUT IN A NEW WATER PUMP AND A NEW 160 THREMOSTAT. BUT IT STILL OVER HEAT'S. THE ENGINE WAS BORED 30 OVER (IT'S A 305 TPI) I WANT TO KEEP IT ALL ORIGINAL.
I NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE. IT WAS REBUILT CUASE MY OIL PUMP WENT OUT AND MESSED UP MY CRANK
. ANY HELP GUY'S THANK'S
I NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE. IT WAS REBUILT CUASE MY OIL PUMP WENT OUT AND MESSED UP MY CRANK
. ANY HELP GUY'S THANK'S
fan switch
Is your fan turning on? Mine hasnt and I have been working on this issue for a bit. I put power to the fan and it worked as well as checking out the relay and it works. I replaced the fan switch and now I am trying to find out how to test the new setup.
If it's running well otherwise you should check your timing. Over or under-advanced and getting toasty can happen pretty easy. On a TPI remember to disconnect the timign wire before setting base timing. 6* BTDC is stock setting with a stock chip.
If it wasn't overheating before with that radiator then you should also check to make sure the cooling fans are coming on when they should. That's 228* with stock chip and everyting, A/C off. If you have a twin fan setup then both should come on at that temp.
Um..... if you replaced the lower rad hose does the new one have a spring inside it like the original one did? Without it the water pump can suck the lower rad hose flat at mid-high RPMs and temps shoot to the moon very quickly until the RPMs come down again. Highway overheating at 70-75 MPH is common if this problem exists.
Also, make sure you have the plastic "chin spoiler" in place under the rad support. It's critical to proper airflow through the rad at highway speeds on 3rd gens.
If it wasn't overheating before with that radiator then you should also check to make sure the cooling fans are coming on when they should. That's 228* with stock chip and everyting, A/C off. If you have a twin fan setup then both should come on at that temp.
Um..... if you replaced the lower rad hose does the new one have a spring inside it like the original one did? Without it the water pump can suck the lower rad hose flat at mid-high RPMs and temps shoot to the moon very quickly until the RPMs come down again. Highway overheating at 70-75 MPH is common if this problem exists.
Also, make sure you have the plastic "chin spoiler" in place under the rad support. It's critical to proper airflow through the rad at highway speeds on 3rd gens.
I'm sort of having the same problem. I replaced the waterpump thermostat(it was a 180) and it still sort of overheats. The fans turn on if i turn on the a/c. What temp should they automatically turn on by themselves?
I noticed a similar thing with my '89 GTA. Even after I rebuilt the engine with the 160F thermostat, the temps get pretty hot just sitting around in traffic. I ended up installing a two-speed fan switch and wired them into the kick-panel below the steering column. Most of the time, I leave the fan on setting 1, which is just the radiator fan. On really hot days, I kick it onto setting 2, which is both fans. Keeps it pretty steady in between 200-220F in the dead of Texas heat.
I was thinking about this again last night.
BY placing a 160 deg therm, wouldnt that cause you to run in constant open and not allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to circulate and get cooled? If this is the case you may lose only a couple of degrees by the time it leaves the radiator for the engines intake again. If this is the case the only way to get it cooled while driving is to be in constant motion and no stops, such as the interstate.
If I am all wet, please let me know.
Other than this, you may want to check your coolant temp sensor.
BY placing a 160 deg therm, wouldnt that cause you to run in constant open and not allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to circulate and get cooled? If this is the case you may lose only a couple of degrees by the time it leaves the radiator for the engines intake again. If this is the case the only way to get it cooled while driving is to be in constant motion and no stops, such as the interstate.
If I am all wet, please let me know.
Other than this, you may want to check your coolant temp sensor.
if your running a tpi car with a stock chip, your problem may partically lie in the thermostat... lowest you can run with a stock chip and keep the ecm function from staying in open loop is a 180...
if you need just a little extra cooling flow, i recommend drilling 1 or 2 1/8th inch holes along the sides... this will help it flow a little extra.
seems to me, those of you who have over heating problems have not had the radiators pulled and flowed or repaired. i'e been running 350hp through a stock radiator for some time now, and even when its up int he mid 90's here, i run a nice cool 195 even if sittin in traffic... and i only have a single fan!
i suggest you change your coolant, and in the process see how much gunk is in your radiator.... a clogged radiator would cause an overheating problem like such the ones your describign!
if you need just a little extra cooling flow, i recommend drilling 1 or 2 1/8th inch holes along the sides... this will help it flow a little extra.
seems to me, those of you who have over heating problems have not had the radiators pulled and flowed or repaired. i'e been running 350hp through a stock radiator for some time now, and even when its up int he mid 90's here, i run a nice cool 195 even if sittin in traffic... and i only have a single fan!
i suggest you change your coolant, and in the process see how much gunk is in your radiator.... a clogged radiator would cause an overheating problem like such the ones your describign!
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