Im really curious to see if an LT4 intake would work with Vortecs. Someone on thirdgen.org knows a guy who knows a guy who saw a guy with it done, but I wish there were pictures. The miniram III fits vortec heads, and there is the sdpc intake like you said. Holley says their HSR for vortecs will be out later this year, but Im not holding my breath.

 

I don't see how it could. LT1 heads work fine with all the old style smallblock Chev engines, so the Vortecs are gonna need a Vortec style intake with raised runners to meet them properly.

 

I believe the LT4 intake has raised runners, which is why its not compatible with LT1 heads, only LT4 heads. Im not 100% sure on that though.

 

well, since you have the lt1 intake , why not get a set of ported lt1 heads?? a mild port job on those should meet your goals. and im pretty sure you could have em within your budget. only thing beeing, i think theyd need additional machining to "fit" ( im supposing due to the reverse flow cooling on lt1's??).

or, you could just get a set of stock lt1 heads. 250$ ish. with a c305 or c306 (and a host of other over the shelf cams )you "should" see 350rwhp. use the extra money to machine them to fit.

or (again), you could just rip out your whole tpi system, carb the f**ker, and i suppose thatd open the doors to lots more choices on heads ??

hth

 

FI has plenty of choices for heads and cams. If he does go carb, better hope he doesn't have to sell it to someone who needs emission controls.

 

I don't think home port and polished stock heads are the best value. I did mine and had to spend as much or more than I would have if I had bought new heads. Mine flow good,(248 in, 205 ex) but If I would have spent the 40 hours on some iron eagles, I would be better off.

40 hours grinding.
New valves and taking seats out to 2.02", 1.60": $150
Milling heads flat: $65
Install and purchase hardened exhaust seats: $100
Install and purchase bronze guides: $70
Mill heads and drill and tap for screw in studs: $70
New studs, and springs: $125
Valve job:$100
Shim seals $30

Total:$710

This was all with a lot of free labor from a friend that has the equipment to do this stuff. It would cost most people more to do this.

Botch

 

If you are trying to save $ by porting it yourself, send it to a professional to do the final parts because they have the machines that can do the final parts and even flow test them so they flow even.

 

I think that shop hosed you. I did my own p and p and EVERYTHING that I bought, including all machine shop services, valves, spring, etc., came to less than $400 US. And my heads were BARE when I got them.

 

So when you P&P them, how did you get them to flow at the same rate?

 

Don't know--never tested them. Just bolted them on. And wow, what a difference

Actually, after doing 8 of them in a row, you find that you have the process down pretty well. If nothing else, you can form templates out of cardboard from the one you admire most and use it on all the others.

 

I went with larger valves. The valve seat hardness is ground away when you take the stock exhaust seats out to 1.6". The only right way to do it is to have seats put in. I also had them fly milled "resurfaced" which I would guess they skipped on yours also. I just didn't want to do it again. Sure you can have it done cheaper, but to get to the quality of an aftermarket head, you will have roughly the same invested if you go to a larger diameter valve.

Botch

 

I went with larger intake valves, 1.84 to 1.94, but left the exhausts at 1.50. Had mine milled flat, too. Read all about by following the link at the end of my sig.