need some cheaper heads for l98 that i can run a hotcam or cc306 on (i'm going to use lt1 converted intake)

 

Only thing you can do is pray to god, because that will never happen with "cheap" heads

 

by cheap, i mean less than 700 a pair. i'd take used ones too......

 

If you can find some used Trickflow of Air Flow Research heads I suppose you could come close to your goal. You're not going to get a new set of anykind that will support that power for $700 or under though (you could probably do it with a set of upgraded/lightly ported Vortecs but your intake choice won't work there...)

Check ebay, I found a couple sets of Trickflow's twisted wedge heads on there and a set of AFR's (don't know which ones) for under your budget... You'll need to run a custom length pushrod with the trickflows if I recall correctly.

 

Good advice Ray!

 

You can also make those L98 heads you currently own hum like nobody's business if you are will to port and polish them yourself. This way you will have to spend no more than $400 total on them. That leaves the other $300 for more important things, like girlfriends or, even better, more fast parts for the Camaro

You can easily do the work yourself. Lots of people who've never done it before are getting excellent results. They can be made to flow like Vortecs. Follow the link at the end of my sig

 

You need more mods than just home porting to work with an LT4 HOT cam or CC306 cam. Dont forget new valve springs, and possibly machine work on the valve guides and making the spring pockets bigger.

This link might help:
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyguide.shtm

 

I wouldn't buy the TFS heads. I wouldn't even install them if given to me unless it was totally bare and I could build it up the way it should have been from the factory. I lost a motor because I bought a set of TFS heads.

Porting the stock heads still leaves you the weight of the heads and the heat dissipation factor which is far lower than the Aluminum heads. You are going to have to go higher than 700 if you want a set of used heads. Check engine builders and they might have some lying around that fit your crieteria. Some sucker got my TFS heads that the engine builder took in on trade.

 

well, duh, i'm gonig to need springs, and thing of the srot, bit in general power making things here, is what i'm talking. i don't have an l98 yet. i planned on anlt1 drop in, but not sure if i wanna do it. so, the alternate is the l98 with good heads, and lt1 converted intake. i wanted to buy an l98 short block for cheap, and build off of that. i'm looking for all used parts here to keep costs down. i have no clue on how to port my ownm heads. i've only attempted it on a loawnmower motor lol

 

Go with the Vortec head.... Good to excellent power for the money... and many people have seen solid 40-50 rwhp with these heads in the fast burn variety

GM warranty....

only bad thing is you need to buy the intake base manifold....

so you will spend about 1500.00 easy with fast burn heads and manifold.

 

There is NOTHING, I repeat- NOTHING that is more important on a motor than the heads. That is the worst place to skimp.

Would you mind elaborating? Heads don't blow up motors. Was something not spec'd correctly?

Take care

Steve

 

Do a search Steve. He's said enough over the last 5 years I've been around. No offense.

 

True. Never skimp on the head. Vortec heads are decent and are cheap. However they are steel and weigh more and have less heat dissipation.

When I first bought the heads, I asked their tech sopport if my RR will clear the head and they didn't know. Asked them whether the cam had too high a lift and they didn't know either. Finally ended up ordering perimeter bolt heads with their improved springs and they didn't have them made up so I had to buy their springs and have them installed myself. Had to clay the engine to find out that there was tons of room. Of course, if I had known that there was no room, I would not have had the motor torn apart at a facility 150 miles away. Instead I had to chance it.

Less than 2 weeks after I had it installed, they sent me a set of guideplates because the ones on the head were not up to spec. Here we go again into the VC area.

Just less than 3 months after the job, I found out that my motor was junk. Call that inexperience. I should have done a compression check. Well, out came that motor and I had LPE clean the heads and check them and at the time, they were fine.

Well, 3 years later, I forget what I was trying to fix. Either an oil leak or some rattling coming from under the VC. Found out that the driver side was fine but the passenger side had "C"s worn out into the guideplates. Took out a guideplate and while I was looking around, I found a broken spring. Replaced it and all the worn guideplates.

6 months later I took the intake manifold out to fix another oil leak. Decided to take the heads off to see if there was any damage since the compression came out around 165 to 180 psi. Found out that the 165 psi one was the #4. When I removed the head I found that I could see the piston ring because a chunk had been broken off by the valve and bounced around. Cylinder was scarred beyond repair and piston was broken. Took the motor out and bought new heads. Traded the TFS ones in towards the R&R. They took the heads apart to inspect them. The driver side one was good. The pass side was so loose that the valves rattled in the guides once the springs were removed.

My theory was that the resistance between the pushrod and the guideplate and the wobbling of the valves combined caused some sort of problem with the spring and it broke. Since there were 2 springs and 1 broke, it could still close but at higher RPM, it would float and bounced off the piston.

 

Are you perhaps suggesting that I don't know what I am talking about? Just because you are a "moderator" here does not buy you respect, or even the notion that you might know what you are speaking about

Read my link before offering up half-baked opinions!

 

i don't care if they're iron heads are not. iron heads go easily into the 12's on a couple of cars owned by people i know. still daily drivers, no overheating, just power