3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

LT1 cam??

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:15 PM
  #16  
84firebird's Avatar
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From: WI
you risk valve float/breaking a spring/BANG and wiping the cam without changing the lifters and springs

stock timing chains are usually incredibly stretched when you delve into it, and so the timing would be inaccurate

i would never tell anyone to simply replace a cam and nothing else, if their motor blows apart i'd be the one who told em it would work
Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:33 PM
  #17  
iansane's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 84firebird
you risk valve float/breaking a spring/BANG and wiping the cam without changing the lifters and springs

stock timing chains are usually incredibly stretched when you delve into it, and so the timing would be inaccurate

i would never tell anyone to simply replace a cam and nothing else, if their motor blows apart i'd be the one who told em it would work

Why would you risk valve float? I admit, it'd be a good idea to change springs etc. but the heads aren't going to flow any higher rpm so why rev higher than stock?


Alright, I forgot about the chain. I replaced mine with one I had laying around that I picked up from a buddy awhile ago but even new it wouldn't be more than $50 for a decent "performance" version and a stocker replacement you're looking 18-35 depending on store.

Whatever Definately not going to hit 350hp but still good bang for the buck.

Last edited by iansane; Jan 8, 2007 at 09:41 PM.
Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #18  
84firebird's Avatar
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ooops $30 for a good timing chain, sry it's been awhile

the issue with valve float is with a different cam ramp and higher lift your stock springs will likely not have the lift capability, and the rate to keep the valve planted even at the same rpm, and the heads may flow higher, it depends on the castings and the cam.

my point with listing everything is to make sure that nothing is overlooked, when giving someone advice, or telling how to do something, i always tell it by the book, that way there arent any surprises and nothing can go wrong
Old Jan 13, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #19  
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Since changing cams is time consuming, just do it right and buy a good cam matched to your setup. Using a stock LT1 cam is a waste of time when you have to have a cam gear pressed on and the specs are not all that impressive.

Make sure you add a new timing chain, change the valve seals and springs and take your time.

If you are going to do it, do it right!
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 11:07 PM
  #20  
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Some one want to explane what the HOT CAM from GMPP part number 24502586 is??

HERE ARE THE SPECS
INTAKE EXHAUST
.328 .328 LOBE LIFT
.525 .525 VALVE LIFT
109 degree 115 degree LOBE CENTERLINE
272 281 DURATION @ .006"
219 228 DURATION @ .050"
1.6 1.6 ROCKER ARM RATIO
0 LASH 0 LASH VALVE ADJUSTMENT
112 LOBE SEPERATION

This is what is going into my 350 TPI . Need help to understand.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:34 AM
  #21  
Randy92Z's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 41
From: Apple Valley, MN
My old 350 L98 shortblock combo made 312 rwhp with, Trick Flow 23* heads, TPIS ZZ9 cam 1.6 intake/1.52 exhaust, Miniram, 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, and Flowmaster 3" cat back on a Ed Wright (Fastchips) tune. Just to give you an idea.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #22  
raul.garcia's Avatar
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It's an LT4 hot cam
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #23  
92rslt1's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 447
From: NY Rochester
lt1 cam for a 305 is a good idea. for a l98 its a waste of time and money.
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