I don't think the intake is that bad. It doesn't make as much low end torque, but with a 383 you should have gobs of torque. I've used the torker on a 350 w/3.31s and it could spin the tires easily.

I run a 400 in my 71 with an outdated 2101 intake (made before they split into performer/performer rpm), 441 heads (a little better than 882s), 224* cam, stock converter, th350, and 3.42s.

I can spin the 295-50-15's at will. You should be able to do the same. If you have flat tops, your compression should be at least 9.5-1, plenty. Look at your timing 1st. I run 12* initial, bring it in quickly so it's all in by 2,500, limit it to 36 total. I run flat tops, so I'm at about 10-1, but I'm at a higher altitude. If you can't get away with those timing #s without pinging, use as much initial as you can, bring it in as quickly as you can get away with, but still limit it to around 36-38* total.

Then look at your fuel feed. I've seen engines that had good pressure at idle, but crap under full steam. Kinked fuel lines, collapsed tank pickup socks, weak fuel pumps, etc, will kill your power.

Edelbrock makes a mechanical secondary carb? Didn't know that. Either way, I don't like mech secondaries on the typical street car. I prefer vacuum secondaries cause they adjust themselves to the airflow needs of the engine, specifically the 780 Holley. Mechanical can open the secondaries too quickly, kill velocity, make engine seem weak until it's spinning high rpm.

Still, I would look at timing and fuel before I would do anything else.

 

I absolutely second the above. The problem is in the tuneup, not the parts. Your intake is fine for now. Don't worry about the magazine readers, that intake and the virtually identical weiand clone can make sustantial power down low, especially with your 3.75" stroke. Your heads kinda suck, but you have to work with what you have.
By the way, if you look inside a Victor Jr its just about the same inside, besides being an airgap design. The shape is a touch different, but it will get the job done.

One thing you might have some trouble with. You might consider going over the valve adjustment again. I have a close friend that killed his low-end (and everything else) by adjusting the valves too tight on his hydraulic 268H comp. Really a 1/2 turn from zero lash should keep things quiet and happy. Just thought I'd throw that in.

Get the timing tape as previously recommended, or buy a Craftsman dial back advance light. You need to know your balancer diameter to purchase the tape, or get the MSD tape that comes with several lengths to match your balancer.

10-14 deg initial is a good starting point.

 

thanks guys, that is what i was thinking originally. with a 383 I should be able to run a horrible intake and no stall and still break the tires loose.

 

Is your converter a quality name brand unit? A poorly designed converter can destroy your engine's torque output. I am assuming its a 10" or 11"....I had one built by a local converter shop 15 years ago that just sucked. It had no power anywhere in the rpm band..I had to take it out and get something else.

 

Tune that baby up and you'll be fine.

Your advance should be around 38-40 degrees total, all coming in around/before 3000rpm. You'll probably need the lighter springs in the distributor for this to happen.

Also, check the plugs to get an idea on the mixture.

You engine parts are fine, you should have more than enough grunt to blow the tires into the atmosphere at will once you get it running right. Good luck.

BTW, 383's rock. I'm really happy with mine, in fact I'm putting a T56 behind it next month.