I'm thinking of buying an IROC 89, I found a good deal on one. I just wanted ur opinions and etc. Its a 1989 has black paint(not too good of paint lots of chips etc) it has the 350 auto, brand new tires power windows works. I thought about buying this to have something to "play" with and I can get it for 900.00 it has a good title, do you think its worth it thanks guys

 

Uhh Yea especially if you just want something to play with. Theres so much crap you can dow with that 5.7 its not even funny

 

yea, I got my 94 lt1, but I'm always wanted an iroc, and hey for the price I don't think I can beat it. I test drove it, it spins tires pretty easy, but it just don't seem to pull a lot it has 177k on it. It feels about like a 11 sec car in the 1/8, I got a friend who bought a iroc with 60k on it, stock he has run like 9.3 in the 1/8 pretty good. What are the easy and first mods for the TPI, I know the lt1 stuff some but is the same stuff. like get a exhuast change plugs wires, how about a 160 tstat in these cars? You can get a chip for these cars right do they help? Thanks

 

That sounds like a great deal. I would recomend a new short block first. My friend bought an IROC just like that one with 127,000 on the clock. The engine was just too tired to respond well to any mods. Do the short block first, and you'll be a lot happier. Just for a sugestion, the vortec TPI conversion from GM is a great deal.

 

For $900 that's a pretty good deal. 160 tstat is not a bad idea, custom prom (chip) is almost a must. Exhaust wakes the car up a lot. Many possibilities of intakes for the car. 177k miles though, like said, before you do anything major, it'd be best to buy a new short block.

 

Yea, I just going to get and use it to drive to the store, take to track, around town.... I think when i get it do a couple of things
I don't have lots of cash to do a lot. But I just want to make it ok.
160 stat, go with a cutout, brakes, spark plugs(Are the cheap autolites any good? I'm not spending 6.00 for plats on this thing right now.) K&N of course. What is stock shift points for the a4.I know on a l1 it was like 5800. This iroc shifted at 6200 (i know the stock tach is off but still that would seem hi). Another reason for me getting this is to learn about cars , i'm a computer nerd and been trying to figure out cars and I can afford to tinker on this and not worry if i hurt that that im out of a car. And to keep some miles on my 94.

The only bad thing is it has gu2(2:73) i did not think that iroc came in that i hate 2:73. What do you do for like 4:!0 or 3:73 how do u fix the speedo?

Will a 3rd gen sway bar fit my 4th gen?
Are they any free mods beside air egr!! delte?
Thanks guys ur helpful

 

IROCs had 9-bolt rears (much stronger than 10-bolt) so the gearing should be 2.77 since it's an A4 car. You can get gears for it but they're pretty pricey.

 

Sounds like a great price. Inspect the motor before you waste money on a shortblock though. My buddy had 165k miles on his L98 when he decided to do heads, cam and a superram. Without tuning he ran mid 12s and put another 10k miles on the car (daily driver). The only reason he blew it up was because the oil pump bolt worked itself out and the pickup fell off.

 

If the 8th digit in the vin is an 8 then it really is a 350 but it also has to have the 3.27 rearend I think. I'm not sure but I thought that was how it worked.

 

Yea i'm reading some here..and 1989 350 auto had to have 3.27 or 2.77 borg and wagner 9 bolt rear.
but 305 tune port had only 2.77(www.thirdgen.org).
so this car might be a 305 nowonder its slow. I really want the 350, i'm going tonight to get the vin and run it, and see what IT really is, somebody could have put the 350 in it. Anyway to look at the engine and tell??

 

The little dealership I bought my 5-speed IROC from tried to tell me it was a 350 but when I questioned them on this they went back to their mechanic and came back saying oops it's a 305. But I knew that already so it did not persuade me from buying.

Anyway there are a few places around here that sell the L98 shortblocks rebuilt for under $600 with a $200 dollar core charge. My point is you can get the bottom end of a 350 for pretty cheap. If the heads have not been gone through in that many miles I would imagine they need some work. A friend of mine kept racing his at the local track all the way to 130,000 miles or so. He new the seals and possibly guides where worn and kept taking it there. The motor ended up sucking a valve in and destroying the motor. Tore the cylinder up to much to even be able to bore it out. The valve lock just came off. Theory is it had so much play in the guide and springs where so worn out it just came out.

So I would be careful running a high mileage motor to much without new guides, springs, and refreshed bottom end.

 

UPDATE
The car says 1989 on it
But the vin says its a 1987 and that year with the 350 only
rear end is the 3.27
But inside the console it said gu2 which means 2.73
so either the consloe has been changed or soemthign some werid stuff.
And also the iroc is closer to the front of the car so that means its a 87 so I think the dude just had it wrong going in the mroning to talk