Im gonna buy some KYB 5 ways to put on my IROC and I was wondering if I could get away with just putting them on the back. Keep in mind Im just looking for takeoff to cut down my 1/4 mile times. The car doesnt ride that rough and im young so I can handle it. And Im not worried about amazingly superb handling I live in Florida everythings flat and straight anyway.

 

Don't understand why you would only want 2 of them... So you just want the rear to sit. the weight transfer would be greater if you pushed the front up and made the rear sit, traction would be greatly improved and you would see a remarkable difference, in track times, you would see a small increase with just two but all four.. That's the way to go, that's the way I'm going..

http://www.p-s-t.com/

They sell all four for 368.00 Can go wrong..

Kevin

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86 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc Z-28 Fully Loaded With T-Tops
Mods;
Spohn SubFrame Connectors, S&W Race Car Chassis 8 point Roll Cage, 1997 SS Aniversary 3.42 POSI Rear End with 12" Rotors and 4 Piston PBR Calipers, Balanced Drive shaft... Others soon to come...

Best times before any mods done, Complety Stock;15.6 @ 87mph
Waiting for the tracks to open again to see what I got going on Now!

ntimad8.cz28.com

 

Ok so point well taken I need all fout but an anyone tell me exactly how I have to set them for maximum tkae-off. Would that be the front as stiff as possible with the rear haveing a slight give to them.

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I find your lack of faith disturbing

86 IROC .040 305 TPI
#186 Heads shaved .040 1.98 valves
Shorty Headers 3 in exhaust with Flowmaster
Lunati 259/271 .500/.515 cam
Highly Modified 700-R4
B&M Slapshifter
3.55 Posi Rear
Accel Plugs and Wires
Petronix Flamethrower Distributor
Cragar 15x7 front 15x10 rear

 

If you're only gonna buy two, put them on the front, this will allow the car to rise in the front and dump the weight to the rear wheels for more grip. Also, these adjustable shocks you're referring to are similar to Rancho RS9000 off-road truck shocks if I were guessing. For everyday driving put them in a middle setting for a combination of easy ride and somewhat firm handling, for carving put them to the firmest setting and for straight-lining set them to the softest setting (I'm sure they'll come with instructions that go into great detail on how to do this, my guess is it's a **** on the casing of the shock, well, strut in the Camaro's case). For the best effect, I'd get a setup for all four corners, that way you can stiffen the rear at will without the car riding like a log wagon 24/7. Also a strut tower brace will help stiffen the chassis for cornering. Subframe Connectors will aid the straight-lining, and the bolt-on connectors are available from Summit for about $100, the weld-in kit is a little less expensive.

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Horsepower is like cheese, you can add it to ANYTHING and it's a little more enjoyable.

-Posey

 

You can also unbolt your front swaybar for a day at the drags and put it back when you come home. Just dont try any fancy highway speed stuff, or you may end up off the road.
My brother does this with his Grand National, its not a big deal, and it helps the weight transfer a lot. It got a little loose one night on the highway during the trip home, and he almost wrecked the car. So, be careful...

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Blue '86 IROC, 305 TPI
Ported Plenum, gutted air boxes, SuperChip, KN filters, TB Airfoil, transmission cooler... more to come. Not raced yet. 70,000 original miles. Owned since 1992.