Look. I bought a set of AFR heads and they were new. However, I exceeded the lift they specified when I switched to 1.6 ration RR and that was bad because there was now some valve float when I beat on it. sometimes you could hear something that sounded like detonation. Just because I escaped it with some scuffing of the tips of the valve by being stupid and going 20 thousands more than they said I could, doesn't mean you will be as lucky. You can profit from that experience since I have paid for it already and be money ahead. Now, if you buy a set of AFR heads and stick below what they say is the max lift, you should be ok. I wouldn't push the ragged edge if that is the case. I would go say 30 thousands below what their max is. Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do you?

Right. If it were me, I'd buy a bare set or used set and put whatever I want on it. I was at the stage where I had to buy everything new. If you have time, shop around and see what you can get.

If there is a second groove there on the valve stem it WILL rip the seal off in under 20 miles.

Correct. So why buy new?

Warpage is easy to check for. Run a straight edge over it. Also, check around machine shops. Quite often they have heads lying around were the customer has upgraded and they bought it on trade. Get it from a reputable shop tho.

 

I built my 1988 IROC MAF TPI 388/6.4L stroker 350 sbc to run on premium pump gas with a functional stock emissions system. (Cat, air pump, and EGR.) I'm started with the 1227165 ECM $6E 89' AUJL prom bin then changed to the 89' ARAP with only the injector size, and fan operation modified on both until I learn to tune.
rephrased, "Is it optimal, no, does it work fine? Yes."
No error codes, no problems. I had expected problems with all the modifications.

GM stock HEI distributor
Stock Runners
Exhaust stock from collector to tail pipes.

1. Crane Cams FireBall HI-6s ignition system w/XL92 external Coil, and 8.5mm Firewire Spark Plug Wires.
2. ported GMPP aluminum 62cc fast burn heads
3. ported SDPC high-flow TPI Vortec Intake
4. Ported GM TPI plenum
5. Stock T-Body bored to 52mm with air-foil installed
6. deleted T-Body coolant system, not bypassed, but completely removed.
7. Removed MAF screens.
8. Accel 30lb/hr injectors
9. Holley AFPR
10. Holley 225/LPH fuel pump.
11. SLP 1-3/4" emissions headers to 3" collector with y-pipe.
12. 170° Thermostat
13. Edelbrock high-flow aluminum water pump.
    Bottom:
14. Forged Alumimum JE-SRP 4.060"x1.125" -16cc dished pistons
15. Scat Series 9000 Cast 3.75" crank X 6.000" rods.
16. ComCams XE262H-14 218/224@ 0.050"/114°LSA Mild street cam.

 

Ouch.


Right - the feeling I've always had with this is that this first engine will be something of a learning experience. No need to go "*****-out" & try for 600 HP right up front...

Whoa, put down the piece Callahan! I think I get what you're saying, & we're in total agreement...

YEAH - that's a real good idea. Especially since the bare AFR heads I was looking at were only about $150 less than the "complete" set when I called AFR to price them...

The alternatives that I've had in mind were the GM Fast Burn heads, the 'Pro Topline' units, or maybe Dart/Brodix, which might be a bit cheaper. Only "problem" (??) might be the fact that I wanted to preserve the L98 angle plug setup, since I'm already familiar with that setup with my headers...

Thanks again for your thoughts, it's good to hear from someone who's been there.

 

THAT is good to hear. Thanks!

Hmm. Except for the "computer-friendly" LSA, that looks a bit like the "HOT" cam that prompted this thread...

 

The valves are good and so is the rest of the setup stuff. I just like to use better hardware when it comes to springs and retainers and keepers. I am not fond of valve float. Like I said, it is not too bad if you keep the cam under the specs. Talk to the people at www.hitechmotorsport.com and see fi they can give you a better deal. The once mentioned that for a little more they would send me a set of heads that were made up to work for whatever I specified. I have used their camshaft and advice and have been really happy with it.

One word of caution. Brian Ebert might start to talk over your head and you have to be careful to stop him and question him as he assumes you know what he knows. He is very knowledgable tho. He has lost me a couple of times and I had to backtrack him so he would explain it to me. For instance, he assumed I knew why he wanted a mix of 1.6 and 1.5 ratio RR. I had to ask him why and he had to tell me that it was to prevent reversion.