Just wanted to get people's feedback on what I'm thinking...

I'm currently saving up parts (and money!) for a major upgrade session, but I'm also trying to spend that money judiciously. I currently have the L98 to which I've added stainless SLP headers, a high-flow cat, a 3" muffler, 24# injectors (need tuning, but I'm working on that), and a number of other parts that are either too minor to mention (an airfoil, my own CAI w/ K&N, etc.) or that I've already forgotten about.

Sitting on the shelf awaiting installation are a set of SFCs, an HSR, & an MSD 6AL. I'm also looking at getting a set of AFR aluminum heads (which I'm currently saving for), probably the 190s rather than the 195s, as I'm wanting to favor torque over HP. The rear-end, gears & 700R4 are still stock.

My basic question is this: Since I'm planning on installing the heads, cam & intake all at the same time, is the "HOT" cam a good choice for this setup? The specs on it are .525" lift, 218* int, 228* exh (both @ .050") on a 112 LSA.

Last catalog I looked at, I think that Summit had the bare cam for around $200, $220 or so, which would work really well as my wife's "big" Christmas present for me. Alternatively, if there's a better choice out there, I would like to hear about it.

The car is a weekend toy, so driveability isn't a major issue for me (although I probably should think about emissions... ) Additionally, whatever cam I finally go with will be tamed further when I add the stroker crank when I do the full rebuild.

Please chime in, I'd like to hear what people think. Thanks in advance!

 

The cam specs are only valid if you use the 1.6 rocker arms. So don't waste your money and make another cam choice if you are not going to use the 1.6 rockers. Crane's Compucam series have several cams to choose from if you want for use with 1.5 rockers and can also be upgraded later with 1.6 rockers. Make sure your valve springs match the cam lift when ordering new heads. The 190's are a good choice if that is what you want. You won't need to reprogram your computer either if you use the compucam series cam which is a added benefit. I currently have the HSR, Hot Cam Kit and Edelbrock 170cc heads in my son's 87 IROC and it runs average about 13.40's using a 1988 Corvette PROM in the ECM. Lotsa choices out there, you just have to sit down and make a list of what you want and stick to it and don't go too big on anything you order. Just make sure all the components are compatible and it will run nicely.

 

I am not sure what my cam will do in your car tho. I have 42 pph injectors with the HSR and AFR 190 heads on a 383. however, if you talk to www.hitechmotorsport.com they might be able to tell you if it works with a 350 for now and when you bore and stroke it you might be able to just transfer cam.

 

if you plan to use the hsr come over to stealthram.com and check out some of the combos over there.

 

That's wrong. You need to reprogram the computer, or chip as it is, anytime you do major mods like camshaft, heads, or anything else for that matter. Hell, the stock .bin could be calibrated even better to make the car run smoother and have more performance in stock form. You say your son is running in the 13.4's with the hot cam, and HSR with edelbrock heads, and a corvette prom...well try burning a prom more suited to that engines needs and see how much he gains. I know of a guy that runs that combo, hot cam, HSR with AFR 190 heads but he has a custom chip done by himself and he goes 11.8 in the 1/4. Chip tuning is ALWAYS necessary, don't think otherwise and don't misinform people by saying that if they stick with a certain series of camshaft that they will not need computer tuning. The only thing the compucam series offers that is "computer friendly" is a LSA of 112 or 114 to keep the computer from trying to hard to read the new cam. This does not mean, however, that your car will even run without chip tuning, much less run at full performance.

 

305RSlc - ECM's/PROM's can be debated until doomsday. I never stated that custom tuning won't help, it just is not necessary in all cases depending on how you match your components. 1987 PROMS can only be altered with minor changes (pulse width, timing, cold start injector), 1989 & up with speed density can be altered for greater gains than a MAF system. There are so many variables and combinations it'll make your head spin trying to figure out what combo you want. Did you ever look in CHP's archives and check out the testing done w/HSR that was capable of running 12.70's on the stock PROM? There are a lot of variables out there that work and some don't work so well. V8rumble asked for a cam opinion and I shared my thoughts. You need to calm down a bit - XMAS is coming (so be nice) - have a merry XMAS.....John

 

jzajac1, I wasn't trying to be a dick or anything. I apologize if my response came off sounding rude. I was just concerned about that statement you made. I know that component matching is very helpful in keeping the stock PROM happy, however, I did not want this individual to be misinformed thinking that if he stayed with one series of camshafts, regardless of the duration, lift, etc, that little to no computer tuning would be in order. As I stated, even the stock .bin file can be altered on a stock engine to gain more desirable drivability and performance. As you stated, though, PROM discussions can be debated forever and it is mostly dependent on the specific engine and it's needs that dictates how much PROM tuning is necessary to make it run at its full potential. I have in fact read into CHP's article on the HSR car and the stock PROM. I also know of a few members on TGO that are running the stock PROM on mildly modified engines. IMO, though, I simply could not see myself running any kind of stock PROM after making so many mechanical changes, and being completely happy with the results. Also, the "minor" changes you listed above aren't in fact so minor. Pulse width and timing are dependent on VE. If the computer is not up to the task of handling a more modified engines VE, then the pulse width and timing tables will be skewed and throw hurt the engines ability to make power. I can't comment on the cold start injector issue since I don't have to worry about one. But anywho, again, I apologize for sounding rude in my last post...I'm a grinch around Christmas and am too stressed out for my own good, heh

Also, V8Rumble, the HOT cam can be had for relatively cheap if you look around. It has an excellent power band, good vacuum for everyday driving, and an almost stock idle. Check out ebay or the classifieds and you can find it for well under $200.

 

There is too much mis-information here. The maf system is easier to tune than speed density, so if you don't want to deal with burning your own chips, then go with a 'common' cam so that the person burning the chip-probably a mail order tune- has experience with, like the hot cam, lpe219, small comp xe. The 87 $32, $32b ecm code can be modified just as much as the sd code. If you buy your mail-order chip from ed wright, he will most likely burn your chip in $6e code and delete the cold-start injector, but there is nothing wrong with the 87 ecm code. There is no such thing as a computer cam, mine is 242-254 @ .050 duration and 110 lsa and it runs fine after tuning, it all depends on who's calling the shots.

You can run a modded car with the stock chip, my car ran fine with a 383, afr heads, small crane compucam, slp headers, and stock tpi intake with the stock chip. Was it optimal, no, did it work fine, yes.

 

Also, the hot cam will pass emissions and is a good choice. You will make a little more torque with the lpe 219 over the hot cam, and others with a lsa of 110/108 will make more midrange, but will be more peaky. Pick the hot cam and save some money and be happy.

 

I disagree with running a "computer friendly" cam. Changing a cam is not like changing a distributor cap or a fuse. It is a PITA, relatively speaking. If you are going to do that, why not go for the max? Now, the ECM can adjust for 10% variance. That is not a lot. Why go thru all the trouble for a little upgrade, run stock intake (biggest POS for our motors) and some decent heads? What is wrong with datalogging, whether it is with Fasterproms or doing a dyno run and getting an EPROM that is cut for your car. If I am going thru the trouble of a cam swap, you bet $350 won't stop me from getting my car tuned in just right without trying to fool it by varying fuel pressure and base timing.

 

I really appreciate what everyone's had to say. At first glance, I was thinking that it was going to be a fairly radical cam, but the more I hear, the more it sounds kind of "middle of the road"...

Maybe it'll help if I outline my eventual goals/hopes for the car (and yes, I realize that there's probably some degree of contradiction between them, but that's part of life in general too, right?) The three main goals/hopes I have are:So there it is. I'm still focusing on torque over HP, & I do need to think about emissions, but other than that, I'm all ears. I've learned a bit already, & I appreciate it!

(Glad to see aklim chime in too, as his car seems to be really similar to what I'm shooting for...)

 

AFR 190s are out. They have 195s now. Get a set of used AFR heads so you can set them up for whatever cam you want.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...939684224&rd=1

 

Meaning that they're no longer making them? That's not necessarily such a bad thing for me, as I was wondering if they might not be just a bit small for a 383 or 396... *shrug*

Thanks for the link. I did a search for "AFR" on eBay, & surprisingly there's very little there right now for the SBC... And, I'll admit that I'm a bit leery of used parts, esp. those that are any more complex than an intake manifold. Have you had good luck going that route?

Thanks aklim.

 

They no longer make them Besides, 195s are pretty good for what you want. When I port mine, they will be 195s anyways.

Why? Like I said, you dump most of the hardward anyways. I put a high lifting cam on my AFRs and ended up swapping the intake valvs to a different brand because the Manley Severe duty ones had two groves. The lower one would probably destroy the valve stem seal. Also, with whatever cam you use, you are going to have to follow the manufacturer's specs on what springs to use. What do you think will go wrong? Assuming the head is a good used one? You probalby will not have a worn out head anyways. Valve guides can be and should be replaced. Locks and retainers might need to be changed depending on the cam.

You're welcome

 

OK, good enough.

Now that's just ugly - to spend around $1500 on a new set of heads, only to need to spend another $600 or more replacing the parts that should've worked in the first place...

Based on what it sounds like you're saying, buying new heads isn't necessarily the smartest move you could make...

Like small-block Chevys need any help screwing up valve seals...

Right...

Well, when you put it into terms of rebuilding the freakin' thing anyway, then all you're really looking at is a chunk of cast metal - the same as an intake manifold! (OK, two chunks...)

I suppose that the only things you'd need to beware of are instances where the previous owner went nuts with a die grinder (probably pretty obvious,but sometimes not, if they just ported it so that the flow is sub-optimal...) or warpage issues where one of the sealing surfaces is no longer flat (which should be fairly easy to check for when you get the heads). I don't know if you could even tell if there were issues with porosity/bad casting/etc...

Am I forgetting anything?