ws6transam

I'm having trouble with the installation of my mini-starter and the new Hooker long-tube headers. Is it simply that I haven't hit upon the proper clocking sequence for the starter, or is this an even worse problem than I imagined?

Oh well, back under the car with the allen wrench goes I....

BOTTLEDZ28

there ar ea lot of different starters out there and some dont fit that good with any kind of header. I am running the stock style starter with my hooker long tubes and I dont have any issues at all. It is a real pain to get the starter in and out with the header bolted in place but I think it can be done with just removing that slip tube on the number 8 cylinder. If the starter dont fit then just buy a stock one or a high torque one that has the same case as the stock one. This is going to be a trial and error on your part. thirdgen.org has a sticky thread pertaining to the installation of these headers. Im sure somone can help you more then I can .

onefastgta

I've only installed my starter with the headers unbolted but in place. That's the only way mine will go in and I have a mini-starter.

BOTTLEDZ28

now that you say that, That IS how I did mine. Let just hope I get a year or two out of this cheap Autozone starter.

ws6transam

Well, it's partially in.

I have a Summit Racing Equipment Protorque ministarter and I had to remove #8 downtube from the headers and loosen the whole header. After that, it was a tight fit and I oriented the starter straight up & down with the solenoid on top. It was a 160 degree shift from it's prior position on the mounting block.

Now that it's bolted up, I now see that I need to get myself a fire sleeve for the positive battery cables that attach to the starter lug. (I have two, as one goes to the battery and the other goes to a power bus to which all other remaining circuits attach.) The sleeve is a precaution since the wires are now facing the headers and will be subjet to lots of infrared heat.

Once I get the sleeves, the starter will be done and out of the way.
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Man, I am SO out of practice! I pretty much took a year off. The car has been apart for 14 months now, it seems as if the work is never going to end. I'm trying to work on it every night so that it's ready for May. At least it's going together now, instead of coming apart.

BOTTLEDZ28

I ended up rewiring the entire start circuit to the battery and alternator. I didnt like how close the wires came to the header pipes. I ran mine up and along the starter going to the firewall, then they take a left hand turn under the A/C delete box and then run up the passenger frame rail to the battery and alternator. I did this will ALL new bigger gauge wire and at the same tme I also did the BIG 3 upgrade as well. I put some high temp fire sleeving on the wires as well. SO far so dood. I thinkI used DEI fire sleeving. If you buy some make sure you get some that big enough to house all the wires AND be able to pass the terminals through it

ws6transam

I know what you mean about wires. Since I've replaced the whole powertrain, and converted to fuel injection, I did a lot of rewiring and moved as much as I could away from the headers. Unfortunately I still get a lot of heat from the 460(ish) horsepower and while autocrossing and doing road course work, the new split tubing that I bought at the auto supply store melted into black goo! These wires were FOUR, even SIX inches away from the headers! The infrared heat must be incredible. I probably have glowing tubes at speed.

I haven't replaced the split tubing yet becuase I haven't found any that is rated for high underhood temperatures. The crap they sell at Autozone/AutoValue/NAPA is just junk for passenger cars. The melted goo has taught me not to underestimate the transfer of heat. I'm even thinking that my brake lines could be at risk, and have moved them to the opposite side of the steering shaft away from the headers. That extra inch should help braking performance.

BOTTLEDZ28

all I can tell you is to first get the headers coated if their not. that alone will drop the temps under the hood and radiant heat coming off them. Then try this stuff from this company called DEI http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku. they offer a bunch of different styles and stuff

ws6transam

Yeah, that's the stuff I need.

The headers are Jethot "stirling" coated. The previous set were not: They were simply coated in VHT1600 paint. That might be why everything cooked so badly. However thanks for the link to the fire sleeve. That looks like the perfect solution, at least for the starter wires!

BOTTLEDZ28

like I said, look around for this type of stuf. there is alot of different styles out there. I went through a few different kinds before I found something that seemed to work. Just reember that this stuff isnt designed to be right up on the header tube to plan accordingly when you route the wires or soemthing. They also sell high temp zip ties if you need to tie the stuff back. I just use some tie wire from work. Seems to do the trick just fine.