hey, fusible links near the start have broken. is there a special spec on these? i have checked the book and the dealer.. no information is availible!

thanks

 

They should be color coded for which gauge wire is inside the link... I think if the wire is 8 gauge, then the fusible link is 10 or 12 gauge etc.

 

dude fusible links are pain in the *** to replace. just put a fuse box system thing to replace the fusible link.

 

fuse link sizing is 2 numbers smaller then the circuit

i.e.

circuit is 10, fuse link is 12

12.......14

ect.

 

Expect to replace the links once and a while. I've done it twice on my car: Back in 1991 and again in 2000. It's not that hard. the hardest part is getting the car towed home.

 

What exactly is the procedure for getting these things off and fixed? I just blew one near my starter as well from tapping a valve cover to the battery terminal on the alternator.

 

You need to drop the starter, disconnect the transmission mount from the crossmember, tilt the engine up a little, then pull the transmission bolt that holds the steel heat shield tube which protects the starter wiring. Bring the wires up top if you can sneak it past the air conditioning evaporator housing. Cut off the bad fusable link off the power wire. Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the power wire and strip back the wire insulation about 3/4 inch. Using a copper crimp from Home Depot, crimp the fusable link to the power wire. Now make sure the heat shrink tubing is sitting at least four inches back from the crimp. Using either a big weller soldering iron or a small torch, heat the copper crimp and add flux cored solder to the wires. You dont need much in there. Let the wire cool, then slide the heat shrink over the crimp. Heat the heat shrink tubing with a hot air gun or residual heat from your torch to get it to shrink loosely onto the joint. Engine heat will do the rest. Now slide the wires back into position, reattach the heat shield, and reinstall the starter and transmission mount bolts.