Car presently has heads (trick flow)/cam (LT4 Hot) .. but I'm going back stock (or close to it).

Car will have Hedman Shorties, LT1 cam, stock heads, ported plenum, stock runners.

Hopefully someone in her KNOWS this from experience. TOO many of my mods in the past have come from a "well, it should work just fine" point of view...

If programming is needed, I'll just go back to the L98 stock cam.

I dont want to spend the $$ to reprogram since the car is (and will remain) a daily driver. The current setup is too radical for that role w/out programming.

Thx!

 

I'm gonna say yes and no. Yes, if you want to gain anything out of the cam (ie power, drivability). It's hard to say if your car will run alright with it or not until you actually get it in there. No, you don't have to. If you're looking for a daily driver, and you really don't want to get it tuned, I say put the stock cam back in.

 

Haven't done that swap in particular so I'm going to post in the vein of "this should work OK..."

The LT-1 cam is very very similar to the L-98 in terms of duration and lobe separation. It's primary difference is that it has more lift. Therefore, it should offer power in about the same range as the L-98, but breathe a bit better throughout that rev range.

In short: stock programming should work just fine with some fine tuning from an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. However, if you want ALL the power possible, a chip burned from actual dyno runs for ANY change from stock configuration is the way to go.

 

I ran a ZZ4 cam with a stock chip, and my dad had an LT1 cam with 1.6 rockers, headers, exhaust, ported heads, ported intake, etc. It went 13.7 @ 101 MPH. You'll be fine with the stock chip.

 

First off why do you want to remove the Hot cam? What kind of problem are you having? What is your idle set at. With the hot cam you have to adjust the butterflies on the throttle body so the engine idles at 1050 RPM's When I first put my engine together LPE heads, Lpe cam and LPE superram it would stall at idle at times in gear. After I adjusted the idle it is fine. On start up it does take about 1 min before the engine will idle. I have a ton of mods on my car and it will run ok with the stock chip. I had Ed Wright burn one and can't tell a big difference. Hope this helps. If not email me and I will try and help. Also I have a couple of chips in the garage.

 

I had headers and the Accel superram intake. My car illiterate wife could tell the difference once I got John Lingenfelter to reprogram it. Now I just get www.fasterproms.com to do it. LPE has a link on his homepage and has recommended them in the past because they do it without having the car there. They will burn it to your specs, have you take real time readings and reburn it, take more readings and reburn it once more to dial it in. The first time is $500 but after that say you do something radical and want another chip, it costs $150. You don't change chips that often if you get it right and don't keep changing stuff on the car.

 

The car runs... just not real well. It runs hella rich and smokes a lot. I'm hoping that the smoking is just running rich, and not that the motor is giving up the ghost. The smoke is a brown color which I think is it running rich. Plus, it's loud as f*ck!

I am going back to a stock (or mild port) intake. Presently, I have the LT1 intake on there...but when I modified the intake for the water passages, well I'll just say that I would have done it different if I started over. I also really don't like the hoses all over the place. Plus the car runs rich (possibly due to leaky injectors and/or O2 sensor probs). A chip burn may fix it (and I expected to have to burn chips) but I have sort of changed my mind on what I want from the car.

This is a bit of a 'correction' of tearing into a car that I had not planned to tear into when I bought it. The car ran 14.2 stock (cold day) and I could have easily cracked 13's with just bolt-ons and a converter. The 'race' car was SUPPOSED to be the '73 Camaro....but alas too many visits here and to thirdgen.org got me carried away. Had I kept the car running and streetable, I would not have the money pit that is the '98 ($450/mo on car + insurance payments) and the '73 would be a lot further along in the rebuild.

I want the car to be mild again. I think I may be able to get an LT1 cam for next to nothing, so that's why I asked about it. The Trick Flow heads are coming off as is the LT4 HOT cam since they are a little too aggressive for what I want out of the car (plus they can go right onto the small block for the '73). I will keep the headers in place so it will still be a little 'loud' compared to a completely stock 3rd gen...but bearable. The stock heads will be cleaned up, have new valve seals and a 3-angle valve job. No porting, etc. Once the motor is back together I have a s10 converter to stab in the tranny while its being rebuilt. Then some paint and interior work, wheels and tires will make the car 'nice'. It will become my primary transportation once I sell the '98 so it has to be presentable/smooth running/mild (low) idle, etc.

HTH folks understand what I am doing, since it seems like I am going backwards from what most folks on here are doing.

If you'd like to send me a chip to see if it makes a difference, well I won't say no...but I doubt if it will make this loud grumbly car purr like a kitten.

Thanks!