Forget the camel hump heads- they're old technology. Far surpassed. I agree with many of the posts here about head choice. Vortecs (cast iron) or AFRs (aluminum). Here's my comparison of the two, having used both:

Vortecs are cheap ($650 a pair, dead stock). They flow pretty well on the intake side, exhaust is kinda weak but the chambers are very efficient. Upgraded springs and such are a must if you're going to be using the Comp 282 cam (hydraulic or solid). Stock Vortecs can't handle more than about .470 lift and the springs are not strong enough for ANY performance-oriented cam. Look at Scoggin Dickey's Vortec heads that are already upgraded with better springs, screw-in studs, guideplates and clearanced for high-lift cams if you go that route (~$850 for the upgraded heads). The big "gothca" is that they require a Vortec-specific intake manfiold to bolt on top of them. It's more than just the different bolt pattern of the intake- the Vortec ports are about 1/4" taller than "older" SBC ports and older "standard" intakes don't match up well with them. http://www.SDPC2000.com

AFRs are about the best out-of-the-box heads you can buy. Everything flows well, good chambers. Very few downsides. For a set of 195s that will work with that cam you should pay about $1350 fully assembled and ready to bolt on. ONLY order them directly from AFR. "Cheap" AFR heads are usually their bare castings bought and machined by somebody else and sold for less money. 90% of the "magic" of AFR heads is their proprietary CNC work done to the ports and chambers. ONLY buy DIRECTLY from AFR. And expect to wait 4 weeks to receive them. All AFR heads are fully CNC machined from AFR- ports and chambers. It's just what level of porting they throw in the computer milling program. For the real truth, check them out at their website and/or call their very knowlegable tech guys and ask some questions. They're about the only heads that actually flow what they claim on their website in the real world. http://www.airflowresearch.com/

For my money these are the only two out-of-the-box heads I'd consider these days, if buying new. Vortecs for budget performance, AFRs if you're after more power and have more money to spend.

 

Thanx for the help I`m going with the AFR`s

This is my setup I`m going with

350 4bolt main block with head and main studs
Scat 3.75" cast steel crank
Scat forged 5.7" rods with ARP bolts
KB hyper flat tops
AFR 195 or 210`s
Team G single plan intake
Holley 4150 750cfm mechanical secondairys
Compcams XS282S-10
10.5:1 to 11:1 CR

450 HP here I come I hope thats enough for 400-450hp?

I`m going to spin it to 6500-7000 RPMs. I`m not sure if my bottem end will handle 7000rpm?

now for the pistons will they LAST pumping around 450hp? or should I just take the loss and get forged? this engine will never see spray or a SC.

specs for the car

SFC and 6 point cage
T-56
12 bolt 4:10 posi with disc brakes
BFG Drag radials
Aluminum drive shaft
Center force dual friction clutch
susption modds to make it hook up
4" custom cowl hood
3" duels with cutouts 2 cats and a H- pipe with Flowmaster 40`s exiting out in front of the rear tires.
3 point strut tower brace
bars welded to the frame rails and fire wall to stop twisting
12 gallon fuel cell
battery in the hatch
painted Sunset orange metallic with black racing strips like the 69 Z28
383 4barrel bage on the back bumper off of some old mopar

things that are getting deleted
rear seat
A/C
radio
insulation
speakers
spare tire /jack
heater

Now, do you think I`ll run low 12`s high 11`s with this setup?

I`m hoping the engine will be done summer of 05 and the whole car by summer of 07. I only have the bottem end

As you can see I`m building a street strip car nice weekends only and maybe a friday or two

 

a good head to use inbetween the vortechs & 195 afr's is the 195 protopline's exellent flow #s and can pickem up for about $900 bucks complete

 

That setup looks like it would work. With the afr 210's and 11-1 compression you might be closer to 500 hp at the motor near 6500. You won't have trouble getting into the 11's with that combo, an automatic, and some sticky tires for traction. It'll be a bit more challenging to get there with a 6 speed, but it can be done using good suspension peices and a strong rear end.

 

Chris85Z28, You seem to be building the exact same car as me, only I'm using a Th350 and a 3500 stall converter.

My car has:

Moser 9" rear with 4.11's
VFN 4" 'glass cowl hood
hardtop
No A/C from factory, only a heater
AFR head 383 with 10.5:1 compression
Speed Pro hypereutectics, SCAT internals
XS282S cam
SFC's
Spohn Torque arm
Manual Steering box
battery in rear
Team G single plane intake

And of course the usual compliment of go fast goodies that are too numerous to list.


The one big difference is that I'm planning on cutting the rear floor to make room for 3" exhaust that will exit under the car before the rear axle. I'll continue to post on this board when its done, I'll be sure to let you or anyone else know what it runs when its finished.

 

Hey 95nateZ28 our cars look simaller only I can`t stand autos I know there better for draging but I LOVE running through the grears my S-10 beater is even a 5 spd.

When do you plan on yours being done? I want to know how you are going to run your exhust I`m not scared to cut the floor if I think it will be better for the car. and I will want to know how she runs hopfully your in the 11`s that would be cool.

I stared this project thinking I`m going to build a 350/350hp engine now look at it. I know it`s over kill but hey I wont need to fear any cars on the road lol. well exept one we all know who that is I`ll give you a guess it has lights on the roof. I have one year to build my engine and tranny I hope i can get it done. But if I`m running 500hp buy the time I`m done WOW I`ll be one happy camper thats like 400rwhp 20%drive train loss.I`m running about 220hp in the Z28 now, I CAN`T wait. Good luck with your Z28

 

With the budget I'm on for the car, I'm seeing about mid-July when it is running and driving. Maybe sooner, but I don't wanna jump the gun.


I'll take pics of the exhaust setup too.

 

That combo whould make about 450 REAL HP. I don't think you will need to spin it to 7000 to get everything out of it. The longer stroke 383s make the power at a lower RPM than a comparable 350 would. 6500 should be about as high as you need to go for best performance.

Good rod bolts (I like ARP wave-locs), well-prepped rods, a well-prepped crank and you should be fine. If it was me I'd even use a cast stroker crank and stock rods with the KB hyereutectics and wouldn't even be nervous about it. If you're the nervous type then a forged crank, upgraded rods and forged pistons would be sensible upgrades. Proper machine work, careful attention to clearances, cleanliness and perfect assembly are ulimately better insurance than expensive parts, in my opinion.

 

Damon what your saying my bottem end Scat cast steel crank, Scat forged rods with ARP bolts, and KB hyper pistons will hold up I`ve never built an engine befor so I don`t know what will hold and what wont.

So I`m going with the AFR`s although I heard there springs suck so I`ll just get a set of Comps to go with the XS282S.