anyone click the links on that page at thirdgen.org? the tps voltage and iac valve info is down. who knows what the settings are?

 

I believe TPS should be around 0.54 - 0.6 and IAC should generally be set to about 30 counts when it is warm. That is what I have mine set at.

 

Make sure you've got a solid foundation first.
Do a compression check, verify good.
Do a "Quality" Tune-Up, don't go cheap on plugs and wires. Go with "Spiral-Core" wires, and a HP Brand name plug. Get a Cap & Rotor with brass inserts. And get a GOOD ignition module(like "Accel").
Set your "Idle-Air-Bleed to correct idle speed, TPS sensor to .54v@idle for MAF cars and .70v@idle for MAP cars and both over 4.50v@WOT.
Check fuel pressure at a WOT blast, verify it does NOT drop off and set fuel pressure to 48psi baseline.
Check and set ignition timing to 10*BTDC to start with(W/O a Chip) then advance it until it pings and then back it off 2*.

Then once you're satisfied with how it runs, do the free mods first.
-cut air boxes.
-remove MAF screens
-T/B coolant Bypass
-relocate the MAT/IAT
-remove weight(spare tire etc.)
-port plenum & base
ETC..........

 

I thought it is 6 deg and how do you do it without a chip? Car won't even run. I am a little hesitant about doing these across the board changes. That is what you are doing with the timing. It might not ping here but it might there. You probably can't hear a light ping but the ECM can and will pull out timing which hinders your performance. I would get a custom EPROM to advance timing where you can. That will increast timing at the right spots and not across the board.

Not sure about removing MAF screens. You might want to get at the heat sinks which are harder to get at without screwing the thing up if you are not careful.

 

Ok, when I said "without a chip", I meant w/o an aftermarket one.
And you're right about it being hard to hear it ping, that's why you need a scanner to look for "knock-retard"....6 degrees is the factory setting, so I like to start 4 degrees beyond it.
Advance the timing until you see about 3-degrees "KR" then retard the timing 2*.( I was assuming everyone had a scanner, an invaluable tool for our tuning, as is the fuel pressure gage.)

And I've heard that if you grind the heat sink down it'll drastically shorten the MAF's life...??

 

It shortens the life of the MAF if you hit the filaments with the dremmel. I believe that is what LPE does. link

 

Ah yes.. I forgot to add that a GOOD set of tires is also a "must" if you intend on getting all that good ol' fashion torque to the ground!
Matt

 

Id go for the suspension 1st, then the exaust, then the ignition, then mess with the engine and trans, do the rear end last.

its pointless to not start with the suspension, old 16 year suspension isnt really going to be helping to put the power down to the ground, plus its inexpensive and you can really feel the difference after. the reason why i said the exaust second, is because an example is my old iroc-z. i got the car with no exaust so it was impossible to listen to the engine for any problems. not to mention the stock exaust is 2.5in and just goin with 3in exaust really adds lots of power...

 

Foolin' with the suspension realy makes "that" much of a difference?
Matt

 

there id a guy I met on another board who got his stock L98 into the mid- high 13's with JUST suspension mods ......make sure your chasis is going to take it first ..... then do the motor ......I just put in my LCA's and Panhardbar ...and man .....does theat rear ever feal planted now !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


SFC's , LCA 's , PH bar , driveshaft loob , Strutbrace ....then the motor

 

13's w/ just suspension.. *thinks to self* Hmp.. maybe suspension will come "before" I tinker w/ boring out, etc.. *ends thinking*
What are LCA's? What does having a aftermarket panhard do? Doesn't the panhard just keep the ***-end in?
What is a d/s Loob? You mean loop, rite? How does this help your car out?

 

No. You will spend the same amount of money gaining a few tenths from doing suspension mods as you will modding your engine and having a car that feels awesome more than just off the line.

Lets price it out:
SPOHN Torque Arm: 375.00
SPOHN LCA's: 155.00
SPOHN LCA BCKTS: 65.00
SPOHN Panhard Bar: 115.00
Springs: 235.00
_______________________
Total 945.00

What will the gain be? Maybe a tenth or two off your 60 foot. No mph increase, no increase in midrange/top end power. Buy a set of BFG drag radials for less than 1/3 of the cost and you will get your car hooking up. Now you have $675 left to mod your car... A camshaft and a set of headers. Now, with the same amount of money that you would have spent "getting your suspension done first", you are are running mid to low 13's...

 

I'm not sure so much can be gained from suspension unless you get those drag shocks which are terrible for the road.

LCA: Lower control arm
Panhard rod: Keep your axel where it should be. Aftermarket one allows you (some do) to adjust how far left or right you want the axel to be.
DS loop: Useless unless you front U-Joint breaks then it becomes priceless as your DS digs into the ground, stops the rear wheels from turning and catapults your *** to someplace.

 

What does the LCA do? Why is this important in changing?
Why would you want your axle to the right or to the left?
Are U-joint breakings common?

 

I would say that without your LCA the wheels could move forward or backward so if it flexes under load, you might not be tracking just right.

The axel to the right or left would be an adjustment thing. You would want it all straight so the stock one doesn not give adjustment while the aftermarket one might.

It doesn't matter how common breaking of U-joints are. It costs less than $50 just to make sure it doesn't happen that it breaks while you are at 100 mph and dig in.