Cerridius

Hey everyone I got a 1994 Z28 Camaro with 104k miles I have done a few mods but Im wondering what should I do next so im seeing if you all can point me in the right direction. I think Im on the right path right now.

94 Z28
A4 with shift kit
Just bought Yank SS3600 yesterday
K&N CAI
Edelbrock midlength headers
Flowmaster 3" catback + cutout after cat
Hypertech Airfoil.

changed the spark plugs and wires with AC delco and OEM wires.

This is my best 1/8 time slip before stall,cutout and airfoil. (only won this race through reaction time )
60ft- 2.36
330ft- 6.5
1/8 Time- 9.85
1/8 Speed- 74.58
Does this seem like pretty decent times for what I had?

I am wondering if my car would benefit from maybe a mail order tune even with the few mods I have. My girlfriend has a completely stock 94 Z28 also with 100k miles and her pedal feels more responsive.

My goals are really to get like 400RWHP, enough to keep up with all these new cars. I would also like to be able to beat my friends 02 WS6 Trans Am M6 which is basically stock with only a catback I get him early on but them LS engines pull so hard up top.

Only time I really go to the track is with my group im in when they meet in denton, Ricekiller is the group.

Any bolt-on's I'm missing that I could benefit from? What should my next step be. Heads or Cam.

If heads what do you all think? Im thinking about getting some LE1 heads off the parts for sale here in the future.
And what Cam if one. CC503?

Heads seem to be a bit easier to do. Only experience I have with them is on a SBC, my 1988 Camaro with a 400 SBC. I took the 400 heads off while the engine was in the car and put new heads on while it was out though and I know the engine bay is a bit different on 4th gen camaros than 3rd gens.
This is all for the future so I can start getting parts together and saving my money so I know what to get.

Thanks for all your responses.

and heres the car.

RamAir95TA

What kind of budget are you working with?

Cerridius

Dont really have a budget in mind, Kind of more towards let me know what I need to get to 400rwhp from what I got now and Ill save to get that amount of money.

Im leaning more towards buying LE1 heads more than a camswap.

Like I may just buy some LE1 heads from someone or buy some stock heads and send them out. And do you have to have your intake ported to used LE1 heads?

RamAir95TA

Heads don't mean much by themselves if you don't change the valve events also (install a cam). There's a reason you see hundreds of heads/cam swaps and no heads-only swaps.

I also doubt you'll see 400whp with LE1 heads and ANY cam for that matter. You're going to need at least LE2s or AI 190cc heads and a matching cam.

The best thing to do is to do a search and see what it takes to get 400whp. You may be surprised.

Intake porting is not necessary at your desired power level since the stock manifold flows so well.

From where you're starting, 400whp is going to cost you an additional $3000 at least, done properly. That's in engine mods only - might want to increase your budget even more because looking at your track times you need some suspension-work as well.

ACE1252

That car is down on power. You should have a much higher trap speed for your mods. Just to give you an idea....I ran 80-82mph with just a CAI and catback exhaust(no headers). With just the CAI and catback, I generally ran in the 5.8 range for the 330' and the 8.8 range in the 1/8 mile. Mine is a 6-speed...but you should be much faster...especially with headers and a stall.

I have added a CC503, 1.6 NSA pro mag rockers, and long tube headers. The results are in my sig. Heads are next on my list.

Edit...I misunderstood and thought the stall was installed with the run above.....however, I think it should be running at least in the 9.1-9.3 sec range stock. Do know what gears are in the rear end?

Injuneer

Using the NHRA 1/8 - > 1/4 conversion factor of 1.555X that's equivalent to a 15.3-second 1/4-mile. Converting the speed (1.25X) yields 93 MPH. If Denton is near sea level, that's not up to stock LT1 peformance. If Denton is at 2,000-ft elevation, and that was on a very hot, humid day, it might explain it. But it appears you have to find out what's wrong with it before you start trying to upgrade.

Cerridius

Oh really??? So my car is not running at optimum performance for what I have? That sucks.

The only thing I notice about my car is sometimes if I give t maybe 60% throttle. Holding it the whole time at 60% the car will go but then all of the sudden goes even more and throws you back a little even with 60% throttle though. Kinda like its lagging or something.

Nothing seems wrong with my car at all. Maybe it needs a tune an I don't even know?

Rear gears are 3.23 only suspension I know of that on the car is subframe
Connectors

And it was pretty chilly when i drag raced the car.

Ok I guess maybe you all could help me figure out what's wrong.

Injuneer

A stock LT1 will run 14.0 - 14.2 at 96 - 98 MPH (roughly 9.1 @ 77 MPH in the 1/8th). Focus on the MPH - that is a measure of HP. The ET is more a measure of how effectively the chassis and the driver use that HP.

A "search" shows the elevation of Denton TX to be 662-ft above sea level. Should not have any significant affect on engine HP.

Cerridius

I don't know what's wrong then. The car seemed fine. Does it need a tune maybe?

Injuneer

Are you running premium fuel?

Cerridius

Yes I run premium.

ACE1252

Check the fuel pressure under load and do a compression test for starters. I suppose there could also be trouble with the trans not getting the power to the ground....slipping and such.

I take it that there is no check engine light lit....correct? Still, may not hurt to have it scanned for trouble codes.

Cerridius

No no trouble lights. Trans was rebuilt last month. How do I check fuel pressure and compression? I think we plugged it in to my friends
Computer and it said something about a power pack?

Read about checking fuel pressure. Does a fuel pressure gauge just attach to the schrader valve in the back? Is that all you need to check? I read something also about checkin it with no vacuum, help me understand that but I think i get the overall thing. What should PSI be at Key on. Car Idle. and WOT.

Cerridius

Now that I have read about symptoms of bad fuel
Injectors seems kind of like I may have some. Car starts easy
But idles like its got a big cam when it first starts. Occasionally on a cold start
If I have the AC on and I back up in reverse the car will idle really low like its cammed and sometimes stall.

Also the power issue half throttle the whole time the car will like suddenly regain
More power and throw you back some. And normal acceleration is not really smooth. It sounds like its puttering.

Injectors appear to be kinda expensive. Especially since mine don't seem real bad I may have like 1 or 2 bad ones. I read that you check with an ohm meter? How do you check with a ohm meter to see which ones are bad.

I will do a fuel pressure test tomorrow as well.

tt383lt1

best bang for the buck . make a rear mount turbo and 400whp easy on stock engine. $1400 with turbonectics turbo. what injectorsand fuel pump are you running.

or get the lt1 heads machine, i heard there not much to do. ( i have afr 210 competion heads and they flow 310 cfm and they can get the stock one machine to 300 cfm.


and yes that is the port on the back of the rail you hook the presure gauge up to and then on the fuel presure regulator there is a vacume hose, pull that vacume hose off the regulator. and then test for presure. 44lbs