Welcome to Camaro Z28!

Welcome to CamaroZ28.Com, the ultimate Source for Camaro enthusiasts! Here you can join over 90,000 Camaro enthusiasts from around the world discussing all things related to Camaros and more. You are currently viewing as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions

To gain full access to our forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
  • Participate in over 40 different forums and search/browse from over 5 million posts.
  • Upload your Camaro details to your Garage
  • Post photos, respond to polls and access other special features
  • Gain access to our free marketplace to buy, sell and trade Camaros, parts and more.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so join our community today today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support.


Go Back   CamaroZ28.Com Message Board > 1967-2002 Powertrain Discussion > LT1 Based Engine Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Garage Photos Blogs FAQ Members List Social Groups Links Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Z28LiveVendor Directory


Reply Post New Thread
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-06-2010, 11:01 PM   #1
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: easley,sc
Posts: 57
94 z28 won't turn anything on with key

last month i had a fan short circuit and it obviously burned up some wiring on my steering column cause i can put the key in and turn it to try and start it and nothing will happen i have traced a pink wire that runs down the column and have put a toggle switch on it it's the only way to turn fuel pump on and everything. the key will not turn anything on but the radio and make it so i can use the power windows that's it. but with the toggle in the on position and key in i can start car any suggestions on how to be rid of toggle switch. i have put new fan motor on and for one week i didn't have to use the toggle the key worked properly
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on CamaroZ28.com!
chrisblanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2010, 11:31 PM   #2
Super Moderator
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 40,761
Garage
See if there's anything in Shoebox's writeup on the ignition switch that helps:

http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html
__________________
Fred

94 Formula A3+1: 381ci all-forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / Comp Cams custom solid roller / TH400 + GearVendors OD / Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's / 300-shot N2O / Spohn suspension / 6-pt roll bar with integrated SFC's / AutoMeter instrumentation / MoTeC M48Pro engine management system / a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800LB-FT at the flywheel.
Injuneer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 07:08 AM   #3
Registered User
 
shoebox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 26,856
There are also some other schematics on my site. Unless you had something out of the ordinary wired up, no fan short circuit should have cause any wiring damage in the column.
shoebox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 08:00 AM   #4
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
Posts: 1,720
I actually sounds like the fusible links...in rare cases one melting one can take out a good one nearby.

The fusible links are located on the passenger inner fender and attach to the (+) terminal that's covered by the red cap.

Take a look at SHBOX's page: http://shbox.com/1/battery_cable_routing1.jpg THose small wires attached to item 14 are the fusible links.

Good luck!
__________________
'94 Trans Am Ram Air: More Performance Heads, 11.0:1 CR, GM 846 cam, Meziere WP, True Roller timing set, Caddy racing lifters, Crane 1.6rr, 54mm TB, 30# FMC injectors, Magnecor wires, LT4 knock module PCMforLESS tune, Jet Hot LT, Corsa, SLP HD clutch, aluminum driveshaft, Moser 12-bolt. LS1 brake conversion, STB, SFC 401 rwhp,440 rwtq
bw_hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 05:27 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: easley,sc
Posts: 57
thanks for the help it's just weird it fixed itself for a week or so and then went back to being messed up again it seems like this car one thing happens then something else
chrisblanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 10:05 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: easley,sc
Posts: 57
so tried everything and nothing really came of it but on the first link given on the last picture the red wire with blue connector that's how my connector looked after the fan shorted out and is the wire that i had to put toggle on. the fans were also straight wired to the fuse block under hood the a/c fuse any suggestions from here
chrisblanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 11:18 PM   #7
Registered User
 
shoebox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 26,856
Sounds like your custom fan wiring is pulling too much current from where it is not supposed to. The factory fan circuits use relays to keep from doing that. I think I would return the fans to stock wiring, if I were you. Schematics on my site show the factory wiring.
shoebox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 05:36 PM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: easley,sc
Posts: 57
o really thanks alot they also removed the ect in the head when i got it besides the gm dealer where else could i get it cause don't that control when they come on rightor is it the one on the water pump i just put new one on water pump
chrisblanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 05:54 PM   #9
Super Moderator
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 40,761
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisblanton View Post
o really thanks alot they also removed the ect in the head when i got it besides the gm dealer where else could i get it cause don't that control when they come on rightor is it the one on the water pump i just put new one on water pump
Hard to decipher.... but I think you are saying the coolant temp sensor in the driver's side head is missing - hope they put a plug in the hole. No, it doesn't "control when they come on". The sensor in the head is only for the dash gauge. Any auto parts store can sell you a single-wire coolant temp sensor replacement that will fit and work.

The sensor in the water pump tells the PCM the coolant temp. The PCM controls the fans based on this temp.
__________________
Fred

94 Formula A3+1: 381ci all-forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / Comp Cams custom solid roller / TH400 + GearVendors OD / Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's / 300-shot N2O / Spohn suspension / 6-pt roll bar with integrated SFC's / AutoMeter instrumentation / MoTeC M48Pro engine management system / a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800LB-FT at the flywheel.
Injuneer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 05:54 PM
 
Reply Post New Thread

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
Copyright © 1996-2013 CamaroZ28.Com. All rights reserved.