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Old 03-05-2014, 01:25 PM   #1
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Rear Brake locking

My 95 z28's rear caliper is locking on the rotor lightly . I replaced the pads and caliper not 200 miles ago and this was the original problem. Bad part or is there something I am unaware of about these braking systems on the 4th gen?
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:55 PM   #2
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Re: Rear Brake locking

Is it possible the lever for the E-brake is stuck, holding the pads against the rotor?
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94 Formula A3+1: 381ci all-forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / Comp Cams custom solid roller / TH400 + GearVendors OD / Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's / 300-shot N2O / Spohn suspension / 6-pt roll bar with integrated SFC's / AutoMeter instrumentation / MoTeC M48Pro engine management system / a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800LB-FT at the flywheel.
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:02 PM   #3
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Re: Rear Brake locking

In the fall I changed the caliper and bled it and then checked the e-brake which seemed free. The past 2 weeks it's been grabbing more and more at the rotor grinding into it. The cable seems normal from checking the e-brake release and visual .
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:38 AM   #4
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Re: Rear Brake locking

Replace flexible brake lines. They sometimes collapse internally.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:48 PM   #5
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Smile Re: Rear Brake locking

That will be my next step then it is a 95 after all and this problem I inherited

from the previous owner ,as the brake dust was there when I purchased the

car last year. Just have to wait for temps to crack 32 as today it is only 27 for

high too cold for my hands. Anyway thanks for the input!
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:30 PM   #6
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Re: Rear Brake locking

Did you use all new hardware to mount the caliper?
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94 Formula A3+1: 381ci all-forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / Comp Cams custom solid roller / TH400 + GearVendors OD / Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's / 300-shot N2O / Spohn suspension / 6-pt roll bar with integrated SFC's / AutoMeter instrumentation / MoTeC M48Pro engine management system / a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800LB-FT at the flywheel.
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:13 AM   #7
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Re: Rear Brake locking

If you did not replace your rotors or have them turned it will grab. It tend to grab more when you start driving and stops doing it as much when the rotor heats up? This is just a thought as ive had this issue before with a different type of car tho.

Run your finger over the rotor to feel if it has groves and check the rotor for heated stress cracks.

Also depending on who you take your rotors to its sometimes just as much to buy new ones then to have them turned.

EDIT: I misunderstood the question. You said lightly grabbing the rotor. Also you said you replaced a caliper meaning just one side? Was that caliper a OEM caliper?
Also i know on back brakes the pads will ride a little on the rotors especially When new. Also the balance of brake fluid and pad to rotor pressure could be different between calipers and that could make a big difference in your driving. Say if you get it up to speed and let the steering go and apply the brake does it veer to one side?

If these are some of the symptoms i would recommend buying the same type of caliper for the other side.

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Last edited by 4th Gen 4 Life; 03-10-2014 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:46 PM   #8
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Thumbs up Re: Rear Brake locking

4th Gen 4 life you hit the nail on the head I believe. I did replace all the

hardware and caliper in the fall as I found all the receipts(Have worked on

several cars since I forgot my own!). It grabs and now grinds all the time

when brakes are applied but not too much when they aren't and I remember

debating about the rotors in the fall especially the passenger side(the

proverbial nail) and now I know it needs to go. That I think I will replace the

hoses just to be sure. It's annoying as I have the car running good otherwise

just need to do the hood and it will look almost new.(hood had had rock\bug

chips) Appreciate all input from everybody thank you.

Actually does anybody know the difference in hoses? I see listings for rear outer? rear center? with or without traction

control(which I have)?

Last edited by Rich Weigel; 03-11-2014 at 05:25 PM. Reason: forgot
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:08 PM   #9
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Re: Rear Brake locking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Weigel View Post
...

Actually does anybody know the difference in hoses? I see listings for rear outer? rear center? with or without traction

control(which I have)?
TC cars have individual pipes for each rear wheel. That means 2 rear center hoses and 1 hose at each caliper.
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:56 AM   #10
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Re: Rear Brake locking

I still haven't come up with a viable solution. I was about to change hose and notice the caliper can be pushed closed by hand(As it should if it's new) I can't see the hose being the issue?(Also it looks as if I wasn't the first to replace it)
Inner pad keeps riding the rotor?Misalignment of some kind? This issue I inherited and I think he(former owner) replaced the hose as well?

The caliper is new,rotor and pads.

Last edited by Rich Weigel; 04-10-2014 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:49 PM   #11
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Re: Rear Brake locking

Does the axle move in and out of the rear axle housing?
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Old 04-10-2014, 02:34 PM   #12
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Re: Rear Brake locking

No I did check that though. I think I solved it and it maybe a warning to stay away from cheap pads I swapped to a new ceramic pad and the noise and rubbing are at a minimum (I expect a tad from rotor getting rubbed a little from bad pad) So hopefully it's fixed and I won't buy anymore generic pads.
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Old 04-10-2014, 02:34 PM
 
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