eanhl2004

My driver's side brake light chooses when it wants to work. I changed the light bulb (new 2057) for brake light, and new 194 in running light! Still it's acting funny. The 194 bulb is very touchy, you have to place it perfectly in order for it to light up. I removed the ground and reinstalled... the sheet metal they attached it to has a slight burr and is painted? (I may take it to a shop and grind it down to metal)

I also tried to locate the brake light switch under the pedal but will wait for daylight and I think since my Passenger's side brake light works fine that the switch isn't the problem.

I was able to get the driver's side brake light working but it's delayed, like a split second after the passenger/3rd light up the driver's side lights up and is very dim?

Is it wiring harness/sockets, brake switch, bad ground?
Does the 194 bulb complete a circuit somehow so when the socket for it is bad the brake light will also act bad?

I've read many threads on this but am still not sure. I have two grounds connected to the car in the rear trunk release area is that the only ground for the driver's side or is it possible I have others that are involved?

rv93

it sounds like the socket is corroded, and shorting out somehow.

eanhl2004

The sockets look clean, would the corrosion be in the 'hidden' area of the socket?

rv93

you never know. what *i* would do is get an old bulb, carefully crack it open, then plug it in, and check for continuity between the wires (maybe use one of those quick splice things), and the poles inside the bulb. now, not saying thats the best option. im not an expert. just thought some advice would be better than none at all, assuming nobody has better ideas.

eanhl2004

NOTICE:
For the following post I was using both black/red on the multimeter on the socket itself (Isn't that wrong???)
Okay so I pulled the bulbs out for driver's side and passengers side brake lights
DS = 1.3-1.4 ohms and PS = 2.1 ohms I placed the meter on the bottom two bars where the two bumps on the bulb are located... is this why the DS is dimmer?

I tried to read the 'running' lights and they were about .5 ohms, but I discovered the problem with the DS running light... it's kind of a push 'pressure' socket.. one side wasn't springing back once the bulb was out. I tried to push on it a bit and it broke off/fell off.. this is why that bulb was hard to get to stay lit. If I replace this running light socket will my other socket be alright or is that going to need to be replaced as well, or does it still have other possibilities? The only way to eliminate or know for sure would be to strip some of the wire before the socket and see if the ohms are 2.1 like the PS, this would tell me the ground in the socket is bad correct?

eanhl2004

I don't know for sure how to measure these 3-wire sockets with running light and brake light all in one socket and a dual filament bulb 2057...
anyone know?
The wires are labeled A,B,C but on my camaro they are grey, brown & black
A=Grey
B=Brown
C=Black

A & B are for the filaments I believe as there are two contacts on the bottom of a 2057 bulb

One for Running Light and the other for Brake Light

I'm not sure what the Black wire (C) is for... I 'believe' it goes to the ring around the socket area that makes contact with the sides of the 2057 bulbs base or non-glass area and non-bottom of the lamp.

so when measuring using a multimeter I should measure ohms and use the red wire on the socket and black wire on the chassis GROUND? Is that correct?

If I do that I get
Drivers Side
0.9-1.5 grey
0.3 brown
1.5 Ring (black)

Passenger's side
1.5 grey
0-0.3 brown
? Ring (black)

I'm assuming the black is the ring, the brown & grey are the bottom connections...I don't know for sure!

NOTICED: the defroster for the convertible top is broke off on the driver's side... now I know why the defroster doesn't work, is this somehow connected to the tail lights/brake lights?
Tried the broken bulb check got weird readings 2.5-3.5 DS and 1.5-? PS? hmmm don't know what I'm doing I think

Injuneer

Black is always the ground. You would attach the black lead of the meter to the "ring" around the socket - where the bayonets on the outside of the bulb push in.

Have you tried measuring the voltage? Not sure what you are testing when applying the plus lead to one filament contact and the ground lead to the other filament contact. Those are two separate circuits. Attach the meter's black/ground wire to the "ring". With only the taillights on, touch each filament contact (bump) in the socket. The one that reads 12V with only the taillights on is the taillight contact. The other one should read 0V, until someone steps on the brake pedal. Then it should read 12V.

Is there any sign of corrosion inside the socket, at the point where the bulb makes contact?

As far as replacing the broken running light socket, all you need to do is replace the single socket that is broken, not both of them.

eanhl2004

I wasn't sure what to test either... I will test the voltage (DC) in the manner you stated after I finish eating. I'm still getting fluctuations on the brake light.. I don't know if it's corrosion or wear but I do see some 'dulling' of the surface area where the two contacts on the bulb meet the socket.. I'm thinking sanding down and applying some dielectric grease (that's what makes better contact and prevents corrosion right?)

Injuneer

You can use just about anything to polish up the contacts, even a pencil eraser.

The dielectric grease will protect the parts of the socket from corrosion, and prevent voltage from getting past it. It doesn't enhance electrical flow.

eanhl2004

Okay I used the pencil eraser trick to clean up the contacts (nice trick, thx)
I just thought I'd mention that I've blown two 20a fuses now, one with a bad bulb/broken mount(glass twisted mount didn't) and 2nd one taking the multimeter readings and accidently touching the positive(red) to the ground simultaneously...
anyway here is what I found.

DS without car running---------Car running BRAKES ON
10.6 brown---------------------------12.3
4 gray--------------------------------13.1

PassengerSide
10.6 brown---------------------------12.1
14.9 gray-----------------------------12.87

I blew fuses 1 and 5 (replaced)
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/BO...amaro_fuse.JPG

I get the BLACK BAR when touching one of the wires (same color both sides) under AC and above AUTO (hmmm I'm an idiot, that's a NEGATIVE sign right? LOL)

I set the meter to the first V which should be DC volts, 2nd V is AC volts

Only thing that stands out is the low 4 on the gray wire without the brakes on or the car running, just keys in standby!

eanhl2004

With the keys on but car not running the voltage reads 1.8, 11.8, & 16.8 for both sides... meaning each wire tested the exact same from side to side... before the gray wire measured 4 on the DS and 14.9 on the PS... now I believe it was 1.8 on both sides because the brake light was not on and the socket that was replaced probably had a bad ground or other connection in it!

I don't really understand if my thinking is correct, but the light seems to be equally bright and come on at the same time now, can anyone confirm that the socket or ground was bad and somewhat explain why the voltage would be so ODD before vs after a new socket? I have the wires taped up and would just like to know that I'm on the right track before I go cleaning up the rework by soldering the wires and shrink wrapping anything and putting dielectric grease on the sockets, etc!

eanhl2004

I pulled the GROUND wire out of the Brake Light socket as you see in the picture, if you look at all those specs below the socket & wire that is about 50 bits of CORROSION... I have CONFIRMED that the SOCKET was indeed my problem. I am also tearing apart my socket to aid my learning experience and help others!

I have read where some have been able to pull the ground wire out and clean it and replace it to resolve their issues. I do not see most people being able to do this and quite frankly I'd advise against it. The intricacy of this socket is meant to be made to be installed once not torn apart and rebuilt. After eliminating the body mounted ground wires and the brake light switch as being the likely source and then finding irregularities with the voltage readings between the Driver's Side and Passenger's Side Brake Light (Stop Lamp) sockets I gambled that it was the socket and removed it. Once I removed the bad socket I removed the ground cable from the socket itself and tapped it on the surface and that 'corrosion' is what you can see in the photo.

I now can spend $50-$70 on a correct fitting socket that is brand new and KNOW that I am not wasting my money, I made a mistake of buying the $20 one just to see and I should have waited, although now I can drive my car while I get the new 'correct' socket that will fit correctly inside the tail light assembly, without missing a brake light... still cheaper than Dealership Service

Thanks Injuneer for your help!