.060 over stroker

I am about to start building a 350 stroker . The guy at the local machin shop told my dad (whos building a stroker engine too) that he was gonna have to grind the main journals of the 400 crank two thousandths of an inch in order for it to work. I haven't ever heard this before so I ws just wondering if this was true. Also ,I know that stroked +.030 over= 383, but what is the displacement with .060 over? I knew the formula once, but I have forgotten it

Why use a 400 crank, when you can get aftermarket 383 cranks for dirt cheap and of better material?

The 400 main size is larger than the 350 main, and a 400 crank needs to be ground down to work in a 350 block. But that was before you could buy off the shelf 383 cranks, no body does that anymore...

Why use a 400 crank, when you can get aftermarket 383 cranks for dirt cheap and of better material?

The 400 main size is larger than the 350 main, and a 400 crank needs to be ground down to work in a 350 block. But that was before you could buy off the shelf 383 cranks, no body does that anymore...


You have to be old, like me, to remember that stuff. We were an inventive bunch in the old days! It's amazing that things only the pros had back then has now become a "necessity" for us hobbyists. Splayed 4-bolt billet caps, 4340 cranks, roller rockers, etc. Some of this fancy stuff is a lot less valuable or necessary than people think. People used to go pretty fast before there were 5-axis CNC machines. Don't get me worng, I am not a traditionalist. Heck, I have an alcohol bracket car running EFI. But I think a lot of what I see is just unnecesary, especially in the bottom end of motors.

Rich

Why use a 400 crank, when you can get aftermarket 383 cranks for dirt cheap and of better material?

The 400 main size is larger than the 350 main, and a 400 crank needs to be ground down to work in a 350 block. But that was before you could buy off the shelf 383 cranks, no body does that anymore...

It would be 388ci and I agree with everyone above. The new stuff is so good and so cheap, why go through the effort?? That combo is a little bit too “Old School” for me. Also why .060 over? You may run into issues for that extra 6 ci that you probably won't notice any difference in power when it's all said n done.

The first stroker block I bought was suppose to contain a Callis crank, Oliver rods and J&E pistons. Only after running for two years to include nitrous, did I find out it was a Cola crank, Eagle rods and SRP/J&E pistons. Did it matter.......yes, and no. Worked fine but it would have been nice to not get ripped off paying for the more expensive, but unnecessary name brand parts.

Did anyone else catch that grinding .002" off of a 400 crank would give you a crank that would only fit into a 350 block WITHOUT MAIN BEARINGS!!!!

Did anyone else catch that grinding .002" off of a 400 crank would give you a crank that would only fit into a 350 block WITHOUT MAIN BEARINGS!!!!

Nope....but that is an interesting concept.

Did anyone else catch that grinding .002" off of a 400 crank would give you a crank that would only fit into a 350 block WITHOUT MAIN BEARINGS!!!!

That's the way the true racer's do it Bret...;) a little DLC on the surfaces and you are good to go.

[QUOTE=Denny McLain;4553802] Also why .060 over? [\QUOTE]

the reason for the .060 over is because the block is already overbored. As far as the 400 crank , like I said, my dad is the one who is wanting to use the crank in his engine. I have so far only bought the block for mine, but since my dad has a 400 with a bad block, and a good crank, he has decided to use it. the reason for the original question is to help out my dad, as he has decided to use this setup, and I am just trying to save him some time, and money.