code 43 (esc Module or Sensor circuit problem) i am new at this!

ok so the car had several codes in it. i have them all written down and are as follows.

13 Left oxygen sensor or circuit
43 esc module or sensor circuit
68 Ac/relay/circut fault
33 map sensor or circuit too high
68 a/c relay shorted
67 a/c pressure sensor/ circuit fault

the pcm did not have a ground and i fixed this last week, coil went bad on me and fixed this yesterday. because of this i figured a lot of the codes were in there so i cleared the codes and this one came back

43 Esc Module or Sensor circuit problem

what does this mean?


i took down some readings before the codes were cleared:

left o2: 350-450mV mainly around 425 closed loop was 651ish

right o2: 540-610mV mainly around 570 closed loop was 800ish

l/r blm was 128

iac pos was 92

mat (f) 91

map (Hg) 19.5-20

map (v) was 3ish
i don't know what this stuff means so help me out please!

thanks, critter

"my lugnuts require more torque than your honda makes"

LOL!

The ESC module is that electronic module that is part of the coil bracket. You may need to replace it. There's probably a test procedure for it, but I don't know what it is.

LOL!

The ESC module is that electronic module that is part of the coil bracket. You may need to replace it. There's probably a test procedure for it, but I don't know what it is.

thats the icm isn't it?

Yes - ICM or ESC module - the terms are used interchangibly.

well the icm and coil have 49 miles on them. opti, plugs and wires have 1250 on them. so why would it throw a code?

No, its not the ICM.

And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that :) . Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"

It also shows the risk of using a "generic" code list, rather than the one specific for your car.

From the picture and from the question, and from the signature info you did provide, appears its an OBD-I LT1. For that engine

DTC 43 is "Knock Sensor (KS) circuit"

This is right from Shoebox's website code list for the LT1:

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

Very easy to check the knock sensor.

Key on, remove the single wire from the KS and measure the voltage between the wire and the engine block (ground). Should read 5V. If its any less, you have a problem with the wiring or the PCM.

With the wire still disonnected, measure the resistance between the single pin on the KS and the engine block. Should read between 3,500-5,500 ohms (KS spec is 4,400ohm). Outside those limits and the KS is faulty or the ground it bad.

Reconnect the harness to the KS. Measure the voltage from the wire to the engine block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V. Outside those limits and the PCM sets DTC 43.

year, engine, model, tranny,

cc306, 2900 stall,

well that would mean a4 and lt1, you know its a camaro from the picture and and if with the codes i have listed you know its a OBD-1 because they are not P0100-P1667.

sorry had to do it, i kinda see your point tho.

No, its not the ICM.

And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that :) . Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"

It also shows the risk of using a "generic" code list, rather than the one specific for your car.

From the picture and from the question, and from the signature info you did provide, appears its an OBD-I LT1. For that engine

DTC 43 is "Knock Sensor (KS) circuit"

This is right from Shoebox's website code list for the LT1:

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

Very easy to check the knock sensor.

Key on, remove the single wire from the KS and measure the voltage between the wire and the engine block (ground). Should read 5V. If its any less, you have a problem with the wiring or the PCM.

With the wire still disonnected, measure the resistance between the single pin on the KS and the engine block. Should read between 3,500-5,500 ohms (KS spec is 4,400ohm). Outside those limits and the KS is faulty or the ground it bad.

Reconnect the harness to the KS. Measure the voltage from the wire to the engine block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V. Outside those limits and the PCM sets DTC 43.

if the knock sensor is disabled will i still have this problem? ot was done with the madz28 tune.

year, engine, model, tranny,

cc306, 2900 stall,

well that would mean a4 and lt1, you know its a camaro from the picture and and if with the codes i have listed you know its a OBD-1 because they are not P0100-P1667.

sorry had to do it, i kinda see your point tho.
They used those same codes on the 3rd Gens. If you want to argue about the wisdom of putting important info in your signature, feel free to do so.... maybe it will help someone else help you, because I'm dropping out. Maybe they will enjoy plaing GD guessing games more than I do.

Sorry I had to do it :rolleyes:

3rd gen with a 4th gen pic under my name?

lol, didn't mean to piss you off my god, sense of humor man.

someone has to know something

BTW when you have a KS fault, the PCM retards the spark until the code is reset so your performance will be crappy at best.

if the knock sensor is disabled will i still have this problem? ot was done with the madz28 tune.

this is what im asking. when i scaned it there was no retard

Oh now I'm understanding.
What has obviously happened was he removed the output from the PCM but did not remove the input requirement. So hook up a resistor to the input and get rid of the problem.

And please change your signature to include year of car, type of engine, PCM and other pertinent data. We don't care about your battery or your stereo blah blah blah.

3rd gen with a 4th gen pic under my name?

lol, didn't mean to piss you off my god, sense of humor man.

Avatars or even screen names don't mean jack. When you want help, provide decent info or expect wrong answers or no help. When people assume what you have and are wrong, it wastes everyone's time. When you tick off one of the most knowledgeable and helpful people on the board, you are not doing yourself any favors.

And please change you signature to include year of car, type of engine, PCM and other pertinent data.


good way of putting it. sigs done.

No, its not the ICM.

And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that :) . Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"

sorry i don't like the sarcasm. lets stop acting like girls

Oh now I'm understanding.
What has obviously happened was he removed the output from the PCM but did not remove the input requirement. So hook up a resistor to the input and get rid of the problem.

And please change you signature to include year of car, type of engine, PCM and other pertinent data. We don't care about your battery or your stereo blah blah blah.

would that consist of finding how many ohms it would normally read and sticking the 2 prongs in the connector. sorry i'm trying to follow you, i don't know much about car electronics other than radio's

Resistors only come in certain values. The resistance range of the knock sensor is between 3300 and 4500 ohms (3.3K-4.5K). So find one or more that when combined add up to the proper value. Remember series is different than parallel. ie. (2) 1k resistors in series equal 2k but in parallel equals 500. Work in series if you can. As long as the total is between 3.3k and 4.5k.

One end of the resistor(s) will hook to pin 22 of the Blue PCM connector. It has or had a dark blue wire on it. It is the dark blue wire closest to the white/black wire and it is above a light green wire. Be careful there are 2 dark blue wires on that connector.

The other end of the resistor(s) will connect to ground. If the dark blue wire is still there, solder the resistor(s) to it and over wrap it with shrink tubing. Then solder a ring terminal to the other end of the resistors and screw it down to a good ground.

aight sounds good thanks for the help.

Update please.

ice storm came through town and the hood is iced shut. hasn't been over 30 degrees in a week and a half so i havn't gotten to it. its supposed to clear up this weekend so hopefully i'll be able to jump on it.