window switch

So if I'm going to use the WOT switch on 150hp shop of nitto, do I still need a window switch? I'm only running on the street and not on the strip. I also have a 6 speed tranny, so I have to get up out of the gas to shift anyway.

And I'm going to use stock ignition stuff with taylor 8mm plug wires and autolite 103's gapped at .040. Good idea with nitto or what do I need and why?

Thanks

IMO, you do. A window switch sets both the low and high rpm's for the solenoids.

At the high rpm's, you're saying you can guarantee you won't ever hit your rev limiter because you let up to shift (are you sure, really SURE you'll never hit the limiter? REALLY? willing to bet your motor?)

At the low rpm's, it'll catch you from a bog, so you don't spray at too low an rpm, which will cause a nitrous backfire (if you're lucky).

Is a window switch *required*? Well, technically no, but it's cheap insurance against those chances.

Dave

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1997 LPE 383/n2o Camaro Z28 Convertible (http://www.go-fast.org/z28)
12.39@112.2, 1.76 60' (na) 11.27@124.6, 1.76 60' (n2o)
LT1 Diagnostics (http://www.go-fast.org/z28/diagnostics.html), New to Nitrous? (http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html) Northern California Racing Club (http://www.ncracing.org/)

I would also reccomend getting an aftermarket ignition system to help out. A 150 shot is a lot for a factory ignition to burn.

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Blue 1994 Z28
Moroso CAI, March underdrive pulleys, Jet throttle blade, Comp Cams 1.6 rr, Accel 300+ ignition, HPPIII, Accel adjustable fuel pressure regulator/gauge, Nitrous Works wet kit (175hp), FLP race-prepped 4L60E, Coan 2800 rpm convertor, LS1 driveshaft, 4.10 gears, cat removed, Flowmaster American Thunder. Moser 12 bolt soon.