I wonder if these would work as a nice compromise between the 2 sizes just mentioned. It says its more for a Honda application, but perhaps for the Firebird also?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Let me know if I am overlooking anything please.

 

Found this cool link.

http://www.freewebs.com/casper9t9/dragwheelinfo.htm

FAQ worthy!

 

Gripenfelter - awesomeeee link!! If anyone else has pics of how they ground down their calipers PLEASE post them!

Here's a question which hopefully someone will be able to answer - is axle removal only neccessary for 10 bolt (factory) rears? Shane at thunderracing told me that 12 bolts can be hammered out without removing the axles, much like the front - can anyone confirm this? What makes them so different?

When "pulling" the new studs through what tools are reccomended? Just some washers, and old lugnuts or what? I just want to make sure I am prepared before this weekend since Ive never done a swap like this.

 

I used the stock studs on the back with the long shank style lug nuts.

 

I have the ARP studs, and the shank style Weld lug nuts, and I should be good. I'm running a 5/16" spacer as well.

 

Grip - or anyone else:

Is that an adequete setup for slicks/hard launches?

I am beginning to think ARP studs for the rear might be needed...anyone know of the answer to the 12bolt vs 10bolt axle removal issue? I'd like to avoid taking the axle out if possible.

 

To come full circle with this thread, I'll post what I just ordered from Summit with part #'s...this should be for almost any Weld wheel, (I will be doing this with Rodlites this weekend)

Fyi - you won't get much cheaper than this either!!

ARP-100-7708 / 12mm x 1.5 ARP press-in 2.5" studs (5pack x 2) = $23.90

MRG-2371 / 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern / 5/16" Mr. Gasket spacer (sold as pair) = $11.88

SUM-7540141 / Summit 12mm x 1.5 lug nuts / open-ended / washers included (4pack x 3) = $29.85

There you have it - everything needed to completely swap the Welds onto the front end of an LT1.

Some important specs to remember if you decide to go with other parts:
Shank length = 1.3" (Cragar SST style, Long shank, etc)
Shank diameter = .685"
LT1 Knurl diameter = .509"
Spacer requirements = 5/16"

 

I have 100,000 kms on the car. I've launched hard enough to pull the front end up over 20 times last year. No breakage here...yet.

 

The 2.5" ARP studs will not be long enough with a 1.75" backspace and a 5/16" spacer. You need to go longer, such as mentioned in this thread. I have the ARP 3.25". The 2.5" length is the same as stock.

 

Wrong knurl diameter.

What's wrong with the photo in our own FAQ?

2.5" will not be long enough in the front. Read what I posted with the pictures. Even the 2.67" (threaded portion) is BARELY adequate to meet NHRA tech.

Look at the pictures. Since there's no Weld rear wheel stud view, here's one:


The 3" studs are already outside the Weld lugs. A 3.25" stud will stick out 1/4" more.... simple math.

You simply hammer the old studs out. It helps to use a block of wood between the back of the hub and some fixed part of the suspension, to avoid loading the bearings with the hammer impact. The correct way to remove the studs it to have them "pressed" out.

You can hammer them out on the front, and on the rear, providing you do not have TCS. If you have TCS, the reluctor gear on the back of the hub may be in the way, but I've seen posts from people who claim there is a way around that, making it not necessary to pull the axles even with TCS.

The nice thing about the Strange 12-bolt is the STANDARD screw-in studs. The Strange comes standard with two sets of threaded stud holes, one set for 12mm and another set for 1/2". I found that with the Strange, and the 3" studs, it is necessary to pull the axles, but that is very easy on an aftermarket rear axle assembly with C-clip eliminators. Loosen the 4 bolts on the end plates that retain the axles, and pull the axles out 2" to give enough room to unscrew the studs.

Push the stud into the hole in the hub from the rear. Coat the threads with anti-sieze compound. Put a large fender washer over the stud, and coat that with anti-sieze. Take a stock lug nut, and turn it backwards and thread it on the stud so the "flat" is against the washer. Use an impact gun to pull the new stud in.

An awful lot of what is discussed here, or posted as new and exciting news is already in the FAQ. I'm close to taking the FAQ down because it seems to be a huge waste of bandwidth and effort, and no one takes the time to read it. I'm really getting discouraged.