Hi,
Im in the process of building a Drag / Camaro 4 my wife. Im looking for Weld Draglite pictures on a 93-97 camaro. Please include what tire size/ combo and offset you have as well. Thanks

 

wow! search much.... fricken pics all around the internet, try taking a look.....

 

Courtesy of Injuneer... FAQ sticky up top is your friend.......


WELD PRO-STARS AND DRAGLITES FOR THE LT1 4TH GENS

For drag applications, the Weld Pro-Star and Draglite wheels offer a good balance of light weight and reasonable cost. But they will not bolt directly on the 93-97 4th Gen F-Bodies.

CAUTION: I do not know the details of the 98-02/LS1 brakes. There is no guarantee this will work on those cars. Any feedback will be appreciated. Send me a PM.

FRONT:

No matter what width or offset you get, the Welds will need a 5/16” spacer. Without the spacer, the front wheels will hit in two places:

1. The spokes of the center disc will hit the spring clips that hold the brake pads in the calipers. It may appear you have some clearance, if your pads are worn, but with any decent amount of pad material, the spring clips will hit the center disc of the wheels.

2. The point where the center disc of the wheel “rolls over” to form the rim will rub on the big horizontal bar on the steering knuckle. This bar is used to support the caliper and the brake pads. While it may appear you can grind the pointy end of the big horizontal bar down, you have to consider how much life is left on your brake pads. New brake pads will move the caliper/pad out near the end of the horizontal bar.

NHRA rules require that if you use a spacer, the spacer must be hub-centric or lug-centric. That means the spacer must fit tight to either the studs or the hub, so that it is held perfectly centered, and can not move. This technically rules out the cheap spacers you can buy in your local auto parts store, that typically have five long slotted holes, so that they will fit a wide variety of bolt circle dimensions, not just the 4.75" bolt circle of the F-Body.

The use of a 5/16” spacer will move the center disc of the wheel outwards, away from the interference points. But now you will not have enough of the “shank” style Weld wheel lugs engaging the wheel studs. Under NHRA tech, the hex portion of the lug must engage the threads of the stud by at least 12mm. The stud does not have to come past the end of the lug opening, it just needs to have at least 12mm (for 12mm studs, ½” for ½” studs) thread engagement in the hex portion of the lug.

There are several sources for longer 12mm studs, with the correct 0.509” knurl. Lingenfelter, GM Performance Parts and ARP make them.

I used the 2.67" studs available from Lingenfelter. The problem is they have more than 1/2" of unthreaded length in addition to the 2.67" of threads/knurl. The theory is the unthreaded length help you get the wheels on the studs easier. Problem is they stick way out if you ever try and put your street wheels on. If you could get a 2.75" stud, with less unthreaded length, it would be perfect, but I don't know if they are available. Check with GM Performance Parts or ARP.

Note that once you install the longer wheel studs, the use of stock wheel lugs for street wheels will become a problem, since the studs will be way too long for closed end lugs. You will need to figure a way to swap your stock street wheels back on.

For the front, typical TRACK ONLY applications will use a 15x3-1/2” wheel, with a 1.75” backspace. Note that the 3-1/2” wide wheels are clearly marked on the face that they are for track use only. They are not designed to handle the cornering loads of a 3,600# car on the street.

You can opt for a 15x6” wheel to get a “sort of” skinny look for the front, and legal for street use. Backspace should be about 4.5” for a 15x6” wheel, and I’m not sure it they even make that backspace.

REAR:

In the back, you will want to use either:

-15x8” 5.5” backspace
-15x10” 7.5” backspace

The 8” wide wheels are good for most 10.5” wide slicks, the 10” wide wheels are better for 11.5” and larger slicks.

Once again, you will find an interference. The point where the center disc of the wheel rolls over to become the rim will hit the cooling fins on the brake caliper. These fins must be ground down flush with the body of the caliper. As long as you don’t start to grind into the body of the caliper, you should not weaken it. Only the portion of the fins that wraps around the corner of the caliper, where the fins transition from horizontal to vertical, need to be ground down.

The stock wheel studs are long enough for the back, as long as you don’t try to add a spacer (not recommended due to the high loads on drag wheels).

Weld Pro-Stars and DragLites require a special lug nut. It is Weld part # 601-1422. The tech description is "X-tra long mag shank, 1.380 shank length x 0.687" diameter. And of course to fit your F-Body they must be 12mm thread with a 1.5mm thread pitch, right-hand, and include a washer. The washer will be marked to indicate which side must be postioned against the wheel. Never mount the lugs without the washer, facing the correct direction.

Here are some pictures:
NOTE: The link to the last pictures is currently "down". I am doing my best to move these pictures to another server.

Rear caliper grinding:


http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP04016a.jpg

15x10 7.5” BS, with 28x10.5-15W ET Drags:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03453a.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03466.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03621a.jpg

15x3.5” 1.75” BS, with Moroso DS-2 26x4.5-15 tires:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...a/DCP04336.jpg

[dead link removed/replaced]

LUGS

You need different lug nuts for the Welds. You can not use the stock conical seat lugs. The weld part # and description:

Part # 601-1422
X-TRA LONG MAG SHANK
1.380" Shank Length X .687 Diameter
12MM x 1.5 RH Open End Nuts with Centered Washers

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Last edited by Injuneer : 05-19-2007 at 09:01 AM.

 

And that my friends, is the reason I went with a set of Bogarts. No screwing around with spacers, grinding, or using longer studs that will not allow me to get the center caps back on my stock wheels.

 

Thanks for the Help, I read a lot of post about the issue with the welds. The pictures that were on here were from 2003 and they had little x boxes

 

The only link that doesn't work is the last on posted above. All the others work fine.

Some more:

 

Your car has a very nice stance. Iv'e always been a fan of your work and parts selection. Some new times would be nice though.

 

what size are those fronts?

 

They are the wheels and tires described in the FAQ.... 15x3.5" Weld Pro-Stars with 26x4.5-15 Moroso DS-2's.

 

Im sorry but, the only better stance a 4th gen could have other than a lowered car with 17x9.5/11 zr1s would be a 4th gen with this setup that injuneer has. Dam your car looks ridiculous!

 

My street wheels are the 17x9.5/11.0" ZR1 combo. Just isn't lowered, producing a rather large gap at the rear wheels.

Another front view w/ the slicks.....



And a rear view:

 

Here's a pic of my car, 4th gen with draglites:

15x6 front 3.5 BS 205/65
15x10 rear 7.5 BS 275/50

 

do you have a better picture of the front, what size of spacer did you use? Ive really wanted to do 15x6 up front and 15x10 in back, and i like the way yours looks

 

Thanks you need a 5/16" spacer in the front. At first I thought the front sticked out a bit too much, but by now I've gotten used to it I don't think it's that bad... Here is a better pic to show you how much the front sticks out. It will just stick out 5/16" more than the back (only difference being the spacer).

 

so, i could throw a 5/16" spacer on back to even it out anyways if i felt the need lol.

It looks good man, thanks for the info, now time to order some rims haha