Wheels and Tires For all wheel and tire and related discussion - Sponsored by Nitto Tire

New FAQ Post - Weld Aluma-Star 2.0's on a 4th Gen

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-28-2008, 07:47 AM
  #1  
Administrator
Thread Starter
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
New FAQ Post - Weld Aluma-Star 2.0's on a 4th Gen

Check the FAQ (Page 2) to see more details on this install, courtesy of Warren / "The Engineer":


Last edited by Injuneer; 01-28-2008 at 07:50 AM.
Injuneer is online now  
Old 01-28-2008, 06:59 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
The Engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Moore Oklahoma
Posts: 1,388
Just in case you want to see what the Z28 looks like with the AlumaStar 2.0s (front and rear), here is a photo.

Also, it seems like many cars at the track still have the "old-school" Weld ProStars or DragLites. I wanted something different and more a modern look, so I went with the AlumaStars. And, I'm very happy with both the performance and look of the AlumaStar 2.0s.

WD

The Engineer is offline  
Old 01-29-2008, 03:56 PM
  #3  
Administrator
Thread Starter
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Your post has been moved to the new "Wheels & Tires FAQ - Drag Wheels" thread.

Thanks again for the input...... I lust after those wheels.
Injuneer is online now  
Old 01-29-2008, 05:43 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
n2ceptor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,458
Street Use???????????? Missing "Not For"???????

n2ceptor is offline  
Old 01-29-2008, 06:07 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
The Engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Moore Oklahoma
Posts: 1,388
Originally Posted by n2ceptor
Street Use???????????? Missing "Not For"???????
When you copied this photo, you “did not” also copy the caption with it, which discussed and illustrated the requirement to possibly install longer studs when using a wheel spacer. Again, the lug nut was remove “intentionally” to illustrate the longer stud.

Also, while the car is “technically” street-legal (current tag and insurance) it is used “only on the track” with the Weld AlumaStars 2.0s.

WD
The Engineer is offline  
Old 01-29-2008, 09:38 PM
  #6  
Administrator
Thread Starter
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
I suspect the words "NOT FOR" are blocked by the center cap in the photo.
Injuneer is online now  
Old 01-29-2008, 09:42 PM
  #7  
Banned
 
mdacton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Goochland, Va.
Posts: 4,974
I just have "old school" draglites.

I like your wheels, I hope I can afford some this year

They let you run with those lug nuts?

I plan on going to a 1/2" stud when I do the strange brakes, but I have short studs now too. They always say I need to change them but I never have. The last big event I ran was in 02 anyway
mdacton is offline  
Old 01-30-2008, 06:43 AM
  #8  
Registered User
 
The Engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Moore Oklahoma
Posts: 1,388
Originally Posted by mdacton
They let you run with those lug nuts?

The “open-end” lug nut requirement is a common misassumption at many tracks and with some racers (from what I have determined). Possibly at one point in time that was a rule book requirement, however, the "current" NHRA rule book does not establish that requirement.

Reference; NHRA Rule Book, Section 16, General Regulations, Wheel & Tires:5, 5.2 “does not” mention any requirement for open-end lug nuts in that paragraph. Additionally, the stud and lug nut illustration shown in that paragraph is actually a “closed-end” acorn nut.

On the rears I do run open-end lug nuts.

WD
The Engineer is offline  
Old 01-30-2008, 09:46 AM
  #9  
Banned
 
mdacton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Goochland, Va.
Posts: 4,974
Well maybe its not a rul anymore but it used to be 1 thread had to be through the end of the nut.
mdacton is offline  
Old 01-30-2008, 09:52 AM
  #10  
Administrator
Thread Starter
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Studs do not have to stick out past the end of the lug nut. They only need to engage "one diameter" length of threads, in the hex portion of the lug. If you are running 1/2" studs, you have to have 1/2" length of threaded engagement between the stud and the hex in the lug. If the hex portions of the lugs is 1" long, the end of the stud can be 1/2" inside the lug. That is clearly shown in the illustration in the NHRA rule book.

Individual tracks can establish any requirements they want, as long as they are not less restrictive than NHRA rules.
Injuneer is online now  
Old 01-30-2008, 09:55 AM
  #11  
Banned
 
mdacton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Goochland, Va.
Posts: 4,974
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Studs do not have to stick out past the end of the lug nut. They only need to engage "one diameter" length of threads, in the hex portion of the lug. If you are running 1/2" studs, you have to have 1/2" length of threaded engagement between the stud and the hex in the lug. If the hex portions of the lugs is 1" long, the end of the stud can be 1/2" inside the lug. That is clearly shown in the illustration in the NHRA rule book.

Individual tracks can establish any requirements they want, as long as they are not less restrictive than NHRA rules.
maybe I misunderstood that, b/c I ran the stock studs on the front with the really long nuts, It must not be in the hex portion enough.
mdacton is offline  
Old 01-31-2008, 11:34 AM
  #12  
Administrator
Thread Starter
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Correct... the Weld Pro-Stars have a 1.35" long shank style lug. Both George B. and I were running them with stock studs on the fronts, and there was about 1" of thread engagement, but most of it was in the shank, not in the hex. We both got a "one more time and you're out of here" warning at Englishtown on the same day. They had to pry the plastic caps out of the open ends of George's studs, to determine that there was not enough engagement in the hex.

The 2.67" LPE 12mm studs I have now are just barely long enough to meet the tech inspection, because even though the unthreaded ends of the studs stick outside the lug, the threads are still down inside the lug.

Injuneer is online now  
Old 01-31-2008, 11:39 AM
  #13  
Banned
 
mdacton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Goochland, Va.
Posts: 4,974
Fred is the 2.67" the thread or the whole stud?

I need to get something, I may just get 1/2" 3" long and cut the ends down on a mill or something. Also are those pressed in?
mdacton is offline  
Old 01-31-2008, 01:31 PM
  #14  
Administrator
Thread Starter
 
Injuneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
The LPE 12mm studs are 2.67" to the ends of the thread, and then thay have more than 1/2" of unthreaded length..... hence I hate to put my street wheels on:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...s/DCP02502.jpg
Injuneer is online now  
Old 02-06-2008, 02:52 PM
  #15  
Registered User
 
neil350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: T E X A S
Posts: 2,665
Some Firebird pics

neil350 is offline  


Quick Reply: New FAQ Post - Weld Aluma-Star 2.0's on a 4th Gen



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:58 AM.