New FAQ Post - Weld Aluma-Star 2.0's on a 4th Gen
#1
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New FAQ Post - Weld Aluma-Star 2.0's on a 4th Gen
Check the FAQ (Page 2) to see more details on this install, courtesy of Warren / "The Engineer":
Last edited by Injuneer; 01-28-2008 at 07:50 AM.
#2
Just in case you want to see what the Z28 looks like with the AlumaStar 2.0s (front and rear), here is a photo.
Also, it seems like many cars at the track still have the "old-school" Weld ProStars or DragLites. I wanted something different and more a modern look, so I went with the AlumaStars. And, I'm very happy with both the performance and look of the AlumaStar 2.0s.
WD
Also, it seems like many cars at the track still have the "old-school" Weld ProStars or DragLites. I wanted something different and more a modern look, so I went with the AlumaStars. And, I'm very happy with both the performance and look of the AlumaStar 2.0s.
WD
#5
When you copied this photo, you “did not” also copy the caption with it, which discussed and illustrated the requirement to possibly install longer studs when using a wheel spacer. Again, the lug nut was remove “intentionally” to illustrate the longer stud.
Also, while the car is “technically” street-legal (current tag and insurance) it is used “only on the track” with the Weld AlumaStars 2.0s.
WD
Also, while the car is “technically” street-legal (current tag and insurance) it is used “only on the track” with the Weld AlumaStars 2.0s.
WD
#7
I just have "old school" draglites.
I like your wheels, I hope I can afford some this year
They let you run with those lug nuts?
I plan on going to a 1/2" stud when I do the strange brakes, but I have short studs now too. They always say I need to change them but I never have. The last big event I ran was in 02 anyway
I like your wheels, I hope I can afford some this year
They let you run with those lug nuts?
I plan on going to a 1/2" stud when I do the strange brakes, but I have short studs now too. They always say I need to change them but I never have. The last big event I ran was in 02 anyway
#8
The “open-end” lug nut requirement is a common misassumption at many tracks and with some racers (from what I have determined). Possibly at one point in time that was a rule book requirement, however, the "current" NHRA rule book does not establish that requirement.
Reference; NHRA Rule Book, Section 16, General Regulations, Wheel & Tires:5, 5.2 “does not” mention any requirement for open-end lug nuts in that paragraph. Additionally, the stud and lug nut illustration shown in that paragraph is actually a “closed-end” acorn nut.
On the rears I do run open-end lug nuts.
WD
#10
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Studs do not have to stick out past the end of the lug nut. They only need to engage "one diameter" length of threads, in the hex portion of the lug. If you are running 1/2" studs, you have to have 1/2" length of threaded engagement between the stud and the hex in the lug. If the hex portions of the lugs is 1" long, the end of the stud can be 1/2" inside the lug. That is clearly shown in the illustration in the NHRA rule book.
Individual tracks can establish any requirements they want, as long as they are not less restrictive than NHRA rules.
Individual tracks can establish any requirements they want, as long as they are not less restrictive than NHRA rules.
#11
Studs do not have to stick out past the end of the lug nut. They only need to engage "one diameter" length of threads, in the hex portion of the lug. If you are running 1/2" studs, you have to have 1/2" length of threaded engagement between the stud and the hex in the lug. If the hex portions of the lugs is 1" long, the end of the stud can be 1/2" inside the lug. That is clearly shown in the illustration in the NHRA rule book.
Individual tracks can establish any requirements they want, as long as they are not less restrictive than NHRA rules.
Individual tracks can establish any requirements they want, as long as they are not less restrictive than NHRA rules.
#12
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Correct... the Weld Pro-Stars have a 1.35" long shank style lug. Both George B. and I were running them with stock studs on the fronts, and there was about 1" of thread engagement, but most of it was in the shank, not in the hex. We both got a "one more time and you're out of here" warning at Englishtown on the same day. They had to pry the plastic caps out of the open ends of George's studs, to determine that there was not enough engagement in the hex.
The 2.67" LPE 12mm studs I have now are just barely long enough to meet the tech inspection, because even though the unthreaded ends of the studs stick outside the lug, the threads are still down inside the lug.
The 2.67" LPE 12mm studs I have now are just barely long enough to meet the tech inspection, because even though the unthreaded ends of the studs stick outside the lug, the threads are still down inside the lug.
#14
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The LPE 12mm studs are 2.67" to the ends of the thread, and then thay have more than 1/2" of unthreaded length..... hence I hate to put my street wheels on:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...s/DCP02502.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...s/DCP02502.jpg