Longer wheels studs
Longer wheels studs
I have a 95 trans am. Im running regular draglites with the shank style open ended lugs. Does anyone have part #'s for a longer wheel stud that will work? What is needed and how do you replace stock wheel studs? Please tell me its easy
Just not enough threads catching to make me feel safe.(I got spacers)
Just not enough threads catching to make me feel safe.(I got spacers)
Im pretty sure SLP and ARP make some that fit our cars. for the fronts, all you gotta do is take off the rotor, and use a big hammer to pop the studs out of the back of the hub. I havent replaced a stud on an fbody yet, but some cars you can remove and reinstall the stud w/the hub still on the car. some cars you have to loosen the bolts and partially remove the hub to get the bolt to go in. Im gonna guess since your instlalling longer studs then stock you'll have to remove the hub all together to do it. when you install the new stud, you insert it from the back, then use about 5 washers over the front to simulate the thickness of the wheel flange, then istall a lugnut and tighten it down. it will pull the stud into the hub. thats the easy way. the real way is to use a press and pres the studs in. for the rear, its not soo easy. yo uhave to remove the axle I thinik. its def. worth punching one out to see if there's enough room to remove/install it w/o removeing the axle.
let us know how it goes. I got drag lites too for when I go to the track, but I'll have the same issue when I install them on the car. what size spacer did you have to use in the front?
chris
let us know how it goes. I got drag lites too for when I go to the track, but I'll have the same issue when I install them on the car. what size spacer did you have to use in the front?
chris
Lingenfelter and GM Performance Parts sell a 2.67" long stud with the correct knurl for the 4th Gen. It just barely meets NHRA tech, in that with the Weld Pro-Stars or Draglites with a 5/16" stpacer, the threads will just about engage 1/2" in the hex portion of the nut, rather than in the shank. Then they have about 1/2" of unthreaded length to the stud, which makes it stick wayyy out of the stock lugnuts.
Originally posted by Injuneer
Lingenfelter and GM Performance Parts sell a 2.67" long stud with the correct knurl for the 4th Gen. It just barely meets NHRA tech, in that with the Weld Pro-Stars or Draglites with a 5/16" stpacer, the threads will just about engage 1/2" in the hex portion of the nut, rather than in the shank. Then they have about 1/2" of unthreaded length to the stud, which makes it stick wayyy out of the stock lugnuts.
Lingenfelter and GM Performance Parts sell a 2.67" long stud with the correct knurl for the 4th Gen. It just barely meets NHRA tech, in that with the Weld Pro-Stars or Draglites with a 5/16" stpacer, the threads will just about engage 1/2" in the hex portion of the nut, rather than in the shank. Then they have about 1/2" of unthreaded length to the stud, which makes it stick wayyy out of the stock lugnuts.
Yes.... the LPE studs are 12mm-1.5 x about 3.25", of which 2.67" is threaded. I hammered the old studs out of the front, and pulled the new ones in with an old acorn nut and an air impact gun. Just take it easy on the hammering.... it could mess up the wheel bearings.
They don't look exactly like the picture.... the unthreaded part is a lot longer. And they are over-priced. Someone in the past has suggested that there is a cheaper alternative.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...=14&pf%5Fid=34
I can't answer your question about the back. I have a 12-bolt with screw-in studs, and I switched from 12mm x 2" long to 1/2" ARP's 3" long. It was necessary to pull the axles out a bit. Not sure what you have to do with a stock rear. I think if you have the traction control reluctor rings on the axles, it makes it more difficult.
They don't look exactly like the picture.... the unthreaded part is a lot longer. And they are over-priced. Someone in the past has suggested that there is a cheaper alternative.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...=14&pf%5Fid=34
I can't answer your question about the back. I have a 12-bolt with screw-in studs, and I switched from 12mm x 2" long to 1/2" ARP's 3" long. It was necessary to pull the axles out a bit. Not sure what you have to do with a stock rear. I think if you have the traction control reluctor rings on the axles, it makes it more difficult.
Last edited by Injuneer; Apr 26, 2004 at 11:46 AM.
www.gmpartsdirect.com or you local gm dealer part # 22551491
If you have Traction cont. on your car you have to pull the rear axles(just did this last week) The "exciter"ring must be pressed off the axles and then pressed back on, but first you gotta have the bearing pressed of also. Good idea to check the bearings while your at it. Have wheel studs pressed on and then have all the rings and bearings pressed back on. I went with the gm wheel studs i liked them better than the ARP ones, they have a longer shoulder. Good luck.
I've got a 93 v6 with drums in the rear and no traction control. How hard will it be to put on longer studs for my 18x9.5 y2k's? I am also putting on spacers b/c the wheels have the corvette offset. What size spacer do you recommend? I don't like the way the wheels look on the camaro below, especially in front. I am assuming they are the corvette offset with NO spacers...that's just too far in the wheel well for my tastes. What spacer do I need? Same size front and rear?
John
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6161
John
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6161
So the GM parts direct number 22551491 is 3.14 inches total and 2.67 inches from the hub. I need to put spacers and new studs on my 93 due to the fact that I can barely put my 18 inch c5 thicks spokes on, and I would like to put a 1/2 inch wheel spacer on anyway and cant do it now.
Tim
Tim
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