do you really have to drop the whole front subframe and engine as a single assembly or can you just pull it out from top

 

I have never done it from the top.... It would be a nightmare though. Through the bottom is the way I will always do it.
Steve

 

You only have to drop the K-member, not the whole front subframe. It's 6 bolts. Going thru the top is really hard, it can be done with a happy hooker or something, but I would recommend pulling it out the bottom. You can assemble the whole motor and then just slide it in from the bottom. It's really not that hard and if you have a lift it's very easy.

 

It will go out the top without the heads and intake. If all you have is a shop crane, that might be the best way.

With a lift or an i-beam in you shop you can pull the car off the k-member with a chain hoist, roll everything out and then back in.

 

I took the LT1 out through the top, but the LS1 will be going in through the bottom.

 

I've done it both ways. I had to take the nose cone off the car so my hoist would reach over the cowl. I used this "Happy Hooker" from TPIspecialties. comes out pretty easy if you pull the front accessories.

I still think its easiest if you go from the bottom. I just hate breaking the brake lines open and risk getting fluid everywhere.

 

That's why I spent $50 and replumbed the brake lines to get it away from the K-member

I welded AN bungs through the inner fender and plumbed prefabbed SS braided brake lines to the calipers. These parts are available at any dirt track racer's supply for a fraction of the cost of an Earl's kit.

I then ran hard line forward and down to the lower core support, across the the passenger's side, and up to the bung.

 

Excellent idea for a car I am keeping. I will probably to that on our TA. The problem is most of the time I am working on somone elses car or one I bought to fix and sell.

 

I took mine out from the top and it went fairly easy, it just took alot of guiding out. The only prob. with it was when it comes out it is going to put a small crack in the black plastic wiper cowl. I pulled mine out with the heads and intake on. Maybe if you take them off before pulling from the top nothing will get damaged.

 

I have done mine 3 times through the top and it is not that bad. You can keep the accessory bracket on, just take the compressor and the alternator off. Of course the PS lines as well. Take the water pump off and the balancer and undo all of the wiring. Oh yeah, manifolds or headers have top come off too.

I have never broken anything doing it that way. I even keep the cowl on mine. The only scratches I have are on the radiator support. And I dented it a little the other day, but I had the balancer water pump on and some other stuff. It might have to go in a little sideways. Hub between the radiator support and the ABS unit. If you do not feel comfprtable about it, then take everything off. Bellhousing has to be off as well. I have had experience at this so that is why it seems easy to me.

 

I forgot to add that Edelmen makes an adaptor to convert the metric flared master cylinder to standard flared ends

I can get the adaptor part number if you like ....