I have a 1995 3.4L M5 Camaro with stock rearend (drum brakes, 3.23's and open differential)

I installed a the rearend from a 2000 Z28.

It came with 3.42's, LSD (posi), and disc brakes.

Everything bolted up fine, brake lines and new e-brake cables went on with no problem.

The mechanics bled the brake system and told me that there's not enough pressure and that I need a new master cylinder (one that came from a V8 Camaro/Firebird).

The front disc brakes work fine, but the rear disc brakes don't work at all. The e-brake is no problem, that works fine, its just when I step on the brake pedal, only the front brakes work. Also, the brake pedal goes all the way DOWN when I step on it. Stopping takes longer than usual, because only the fronts are actually working. I test drove the car around today and it is VERY noticeable.

The "BRAKE" light on the dash is lit up as well.

What do I need? Will that master cylinder from a V8 work? The mechanic said that the V6's and V8's came with different sized master cylinders, is this true?

Also, I've heard things about a "proportioning valve"? Is this part needed as well?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Michael

 

I'm currently getting everything together to do a LS1 swap on my 99' V-6. Yes you need to upgrade your master cylinder due to the larger size brakes on the Z28. The Z brake system requires more fluid to operate the larger size calipers. Otherwise, you get the results you're currently getting with your car now. The master cylinder on the V-6 isn't sufficent for proper braking...obviously. Just another thing I have to buy for my swap, so I'm in the same boat you are.

 

What year Z28 do I need to get it from? an LT1?

I did some research and found out that the master cylinder from 1993-1997 is the same for both the V6's and the Z28's. I've called dealers and even Autozone to confirm and the V6 and Z28 use the same cylinder. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The mechanic said that an LS1 master cylinder wont work because it's totally different.

Does anybody know for sure?

 

All I know for sure is that when I swapped in LT1 brakes on my '95 3.4 I had no problems whatsoever with the V6 master cylinder and the Z brakes.But I don't know a lot about swapping in LS1 brakes.Good luck man.
Kevin

 

If I remember correctly, there is a brake proportioning valve that is used on drum braked cars, to allow the rear brakes to act first before the disc.

Being as how it is all disc now....you don't need it anymore.

And that would throw a brake light on. Its on do to a "pressure differential" in the brake systems....front and rear.

 

So what does that mean? I dont need a new prop. valve?

 

If I mis-read your post saying that you're installing an LT1 rearend, I'm sorry. I was under the impression that it was an LS1 rearend with brakes. If that's the case then YES you need to upgrade to the LS1 master cylinder. What was said about the porportioning valve is correct. That's for drum brakes only, but since I'm assuming that you no longer have drums in the back you don't need the valve. However, if you have LS1 discs on the back you're going to need the LS1 master cylinder. The calipers are much larger and require more fluid to get the correct amount of pressure for suffecient application. As far as the brake light goes. Are you sure you hooked up your E-brake cable correctly. They're self adjusting so it shouldn't give you a light if done correctly. Other than that, I don't know much else to say. Sorry dude.

 

I'm gonna go to another shop today and have them bleed the brakes again. Hopefully that will solve it.

Wish me luck guys

 

I swapped an LT1 rear end in, and I have had absolutley no problems at all. I was told a perfect swap for our cars is 94-97. I was going to try a 98, but was told reluctors, and other stuff would work correctly, so I said screw that and went the easier route.

 

GOOD NEWS! My rear disc brakes work now!

I went to another friend's shop yesterday and we bled the brakes REALLLLY good.

Apparently, my suspicions were correct and there was air in the brake lines. We had to bleed the brakes for a while because it was kinda hard to get all the remaining air out.

After we bled the brakes, I took it for a spin. WOW! What a difference! My car stops better than before and it's actualy safe to drive now... he he he The "BRAKE" light in the dash is also gone now too

I even brought a new master cylinder but we did NOT need it.

For a Z28 rearend swap, from drums to disc, new master cylinder and proportioning valves are NOT needed!

I'm so glad that we finally solved the brake problems. Thanks to everybody who tried to help, that means YOU guys!

Now its time to enjoy these new gears and LSD!

Happy modding!

 

Thanks for keeping us updated! I'll keep it in mind that the LS1 rearend's will bolt in directly. As long as I pick one up that doesnt have traction control then I should be alrite, correct??

Does anyone happen to know if the LS1 rears are any stronger or are all the 10bolts basically equal? I've heard of some guys cutting 1.5 60fts on the strip and street driving no problem w/o blowing the rear. Others seem to have theirs take a poop a time or two after they give the rear hell

 

Yes, if you dont have traction control, you will need a rearend from a non-traction control car.

10-bolts from GM are all equal. No major differences. Now if you have a 12-bolt, that's a different story

 

I got a question I am swapping an 01 LS1/t56 in my 98 v6. I just installed the 98 ls1 rear in bolted in perfectly but where my stock rear looks to have only one brake hardline leading back to the rear the ls1 rear has two brake lines leading off of it. Can I just pickup a y or t fitting and hook that up inline to allow the brakes to work? also another quick question where is an acceptable place to bolt up the engine hoist to the v6 block?