Installing 3.8L catback kit
Installing 3.8L catback kit
I bought the edelbrock cat back kit for my 95 3.8L camaro. I am not at all car literit. I don't know much about them. I couldent do the spark plugs, my friend did because i couldent find all of them. So is the catback going to be any easier or should i hire it done?
i'm going to do this soon for the first time too, as long as you have a safe way to jack the car up and hold it there that should be the hardest part, i guess a lot of people use concrete blocks if you don't have professional stuff. be careful if your blocks break and your under the car your dead meat. i'm assuming that there is no pipe cutting required but i don't know yet, havn't really looked at it. all i can really say it too try it first and play it by ear. we need moe advice. I ordered the american thunder, edelbrock was my second choice, the AT was the same price and comes with SS tips but now i'm waiting for it on backorder. maybe i should cancel myorder and get the edelbrock and just get the tips i want from somewhere else.
I haven't done the catback yet, but if it is made for your car then it should fit. The biggest complaint I hear is getting the old system off.
I might have to have a shop do mine because I don't care much for the catbacks made for my year car
(B&B too expensive,
AMerican Thunder=but hear it doesn't have that famous throaty gurgle because of the resonator.
Magnaflow=Hear a lot of negative things about it.
Dynomax and Edelbrock=I would like these but can't find the one for my car (year/engine).
I might have to have a shop do mine because I don't care much for the catbacks made for my year car
(B&B too expensive,
AMerican Thunder=but hear it doesn't have that famous throaty gurgle because of the resonator.
Magnaflow=Hear a lot of negative things about it.
Dynomax and Edelbrock=I would like these but can't find the one for my car (year/engine).
Borla makes a system for the V6 but it's very tame. Now the LS1 version with the tuneable plates on the other hand is the most rip snorting mean and loud exhaust I have ever heard. Both Corsa and Borla seem to have great quality and the best sound - but that's the V8 system (which WILL fit your V6, and flow is basically BS - especially if you work your car over)
Now personally, my favorite company and products are Edelbrock. and I have been dying to get a hold of the RPM mufflers to see what they sound like, but no one seems to run it or have an exhaust wav as to what it sounds like.
So on down the road I think I may redo my exhaust and try out the Edelbrock system. But with headers, y-pipe, I-pipe and high flow or no cat, it should sound good even if I put a 20 dollar turbo muffler on it!?!
If that don't sound good, I'll sell it and pop for Borla's LS1 catback system.
Now personally, my favorite company and products are Edelbrock. and I have been dying to get a hold of the RPM mufflers to see what they sound like, but no one seems to run it or have an exhaust wav as to what it sounds like.
So on down the road I think I may redo my exhaust and try out the Edelbrock system. But with headers, y-pipe, I-pipe and high flow or no cat, it should sound good even if I put a 20 dollar turbo muffler on it!?!
If that don't sound good, I'll sell it and pop for Borla's LS1 catback system.
Originally posted by Satellite98
Dynomax and Edelbrock=I would like these but can't find the one for my car (year/engine).
Dynomax and Edelbrock=I would like these but can't find the one for my car (year/engine).
There's not tight space work as involved w/plugs. But as WhoBetter briefed on the most important part is having the car raised up properly sturdy and steady(never use cement blocks).For you will be jerking and pulling on the old system.Not to mention your a$$ under it..With jack stands,a floor jack(floor jack adds more stability when left in place slightly lowered)
some basic hand tools(pneumatic is great) tape measure, hacksaw or sawall and the correct system is all you need. Cut the curved section that goes over dif. undo all fasteners the old system practically falls out on its own. The new ones are usally in a couple of pieces makin it easy,add a couple of hangers supplied to the chassis. loose fit the pipes,dont tighten anything till tips are even on both side of back of car and equal protrusion.Tighten up,fire it.
Although Confidence plays a major roll in wrenchin IMO. Learned (trial&error goofs)practical knowledge of saftey and mechanics. Maybe the guy who did your plugs is confident enough to give you a hand
It was easy for me,but I've been workin on my cars since 15yrs. old and had in the beginin some close calls.First repair was a timing gear set on my 67 Fairlane.Once had a Toyota transfer case on my chest
would have been less painfull using a floor jack. Get some Good help and get to know yer car.
A pro wouldnt be too expensive prices vary.
T.
some basic hand tools(pneumatic is great) tape measure, hacksaw or sawall and the correct system is all you need. Cut the curved section that goes over dif. undo all fasteners the old system practically falls out on its own. The new ones are usally in a couple of pieces makin it easy,add a couple of hangers supplied to the chassis. loose fit the pipes,dont tighten anything till tips are even on both side of back of car and equal protrusion.Tighten up,fire it.
Although Confidence plays a major roll in wrenchin IMO. Learned (trial&error goofs)practical knowledge of saftey and mechanics. Maybe the guy who did your plugs is confident enough to give you a hand
It was easy for me,but I've been workin on my cars since 15yrs. old and had in the beginin some close calls.First repair was a timing gear set on my 67 Fairlane.Once had a Toyota transfer case on my chest
would have been less painfull using a floor jack. Get some Good help and get to know yer car.A pro wouldnt be too expensive prices vary.
T.
Good info! Safety first. When using Jack Stands that alone should be more than enough, but I do not use the floor jack persay - let it drop down about a half inch or so, and leave the handle in the full up position. So that, if the jack stands do fail the floor jack will catch it, and a second hand could quickly pull the lever down to raise the vehicle higher. You really don't want to have any load being bared on the floor jack for any length of time. It's not built for that - only short amounts of time. You could put too much strain on the pump and cause the seals to leak. When a jack looses its ability to seal, it looses its hydraulic pressure - jack failure.
So keep it in position, just under what it would be supporting ready to bare weight, but not actually doing so.
Not that it matters, but its a SawZall, and at that, its is only a single brand name of the tool. The tool is actually a Reciprocating saw. A newbie might go out and look for a "Sawzall" and not be able to find one, when he's actually looking for a reciprocating saw, which, the store could carry that tool in another brand such as DeWalt, Millwaukee, Ryobi, Black&Decker etc.
But great info on safety!!! Props to 7!
So keep it in position, just under what it would be supporting ready to bare weight, but not actually doing so.
Originally posted by #7
or sawall
or sawall
But great info on safety!!! Props to 7!
I used a recipricating saw to cut m old catack off I jsut did it rigt near the axle.
to put one in you most likel need to lower te right rear suspension, I tink ou can get awa with jsut unhooking te Panard rod. ut i jsut paid someone to install mine.
cost me ~$115, to ave tem install a cutout, CAT, make an S-pipe, I ad them make it two 45* andles instead of 2 90* angles, a reducer form 2.5-2.75in. and jsut te CATBACK.
Jsut talked with a local gu last night and he had a Catack put on is z28 for $90 tat included taking te old one off... Wit mine I ad alread taken m stock one off, the jsut had to remove my ghetto trus muffler combo
wich oddly enoug I am trying to devise a way to do that again.
to put one in you most likel need to lower te right rear suspension, I tink ou can get awa with jsut unhooking te Panard rod. ut i jsut paid someone to install mine.
cost me ~$115, to ave tem install a cutout, CAT, make an S-pipe, I ad them make it two 45* andles instead of 2 90* angles, a reducer form 2.5-2.75in. and jsut te CATBACK.
Jsut talked with a local gu last night and he had a Catack put on is z28 for $90 tat included taking te old one off... Wit mine I ad alread taken m stock one off, the jsut had to remove my ghetto trus muffler combo

wich oddly enoug I am trying to devise a way to do that again.
Originally posted by Bliggida
Not that it matters, but its a SawZall, and at that, its is only a single brand name of the tool. The tool is actually a Reciprocating saw. A newbie might go out and look for a "Sawzall" and not be able to find one, when he's actually looking for a reciprocating saw, which, the store could carry that tool in another brand such as DeWalt, Millwaukee, Ryobi, Black&Decker etc.
Not that it matters, but its a SawZall, and at that, its is only a single brand name of the tool. The tool is actually a Reciprocating saw. A newbie might go out and look for a "Sawzall" and not be able to find one, when he's actually looking for a reciprocating saw, which, the store could carry that tool in another brand such as DeWalt, Millwaukee, Ryobi, Black&Decker etc.
And on a lighter note:
And I'm not being picky it's just in case you are looking for a SawZall. SawZall is not a brand it is Milwaukees original version of the Reciprocating saw. But Bliggida was right, there are many good brands. But these things ain't cheap. Try to borrow one unless you could also use it around the home (damn handy).
Originally posted by shortdog273
Any exhaust system 93 and up WILL fit your car with the exception of hangers. Dynomax catback part# 17429 (93-97) and 17327 (98+). If I were you, I would get the catback for the 93-97 cars because it's alot cheaper.
Any exhaust system 93 and up WILL fit your car with the exception of hangers. Dynomax catback part# 17429 (93-97) and 17327 (98+). If I were you, I would get the catback for the 93-97 cars because it's alot cheaper.
Thanks, Shortdog. Now that I know they'll fit, is it something my Dad and I could do in a driveway, or would I have to take it to a shop. I asked him and he said he might be able to, but wasn't sure. I'll order it anyway but just wanted to know
Originally posted by JaysZ
All good stuff, definitely safety first. I'd also like to recommend the use of eyewear when under the car. All kinds of **** can fall into your eyes.
And on a lighter note:
And I'm not being picky it's just in case you are looking for a SawZall. SawZall is not a brand it is Milwaukees original version of the Reciprocating saw. But Bliggida was right, there are many good brands. But these things ain't cheap. Try to borrow one unless you could also use it around the home (damn handy).
All good stuff, definitely safety first. I'd also like to recommend the use of eyewear when under the car. All kinds of **** can fall into your eyes.
And on a lighter note:
And I'm not being picky it's just in case you are looking for a SawZall. SawZall is not a brand it is Milwaukees original version of the Reciprocating saw. But Bliggida was right, there are many good brands. But these things ain't cheap. Try to borrow one unless you could also use it around the home (damn handy).
If you have the money, skip the reciprocating saw and go with what us big boys use. Compressed air. May be too much work cutting a hood or exhaust with a RotoZip, but it might handle it. Although now that I think about it, don't use a ZipBit, use the actual cut off wheel attachment. But like I said and Air-cut off wheel is the way to go. Like butter!!!
Of course if I was really a professional, I'd have a hot-wrench, the blue tip wrench - AKA Oxygen/Acetylene torch. But you can't use that all the time. Especially on hoods.
Next step after that is the plasma cutter. I get weak in the knees over those. Just awesome.
*sigh* someday.
Thank you guys for all your imput!! I just installed my catback! It took me 5 hours to do so with my little brother, 4 hours to get the old one off and 1 to put the new one on. I had jack stands, the jack and ramps under the wheels so it didn't fall off. After getting some rust in my eye i put on some glasses. I had to cut the old pipe to get it off with some saw my dad had, but it worked. It sounded alot deeper and had more of a growl to it. When i pressed the gas a little bit there was a big difference in takeoff and sound. I'm really glad i got the edelbrock. I'll have to wait untill summer to fully enjoy it though. It's technically in storage right now without insurance on it so I can't drive it much at all. Thanks again for all your help!
Jason
Jason
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