I went to autozone
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 37
I went to autozone
I went to autozone, he gave me three codes. Then he looked them up. They were
1. Mifire in # 5 cylander
2. EGR Valve
3. Mass Air Flow Sensor
Does this mean I have to replace the ERG Vlave and Mass Air Flow Sensor? Could I clean them out or something? They are both around $100! I don't see how the Mass Air Flow Sensor could need replacing since all it is is something air goes through. I have the SLP Cold air induction, could that be the cause of the problem?
I don't know what the misfire could be. I have all new coils, wires, and spark plugs. I took off the # 5 wire from the coil and noticed it wasn't sparking as rapid as it was when i got it a few weeks ago. I think this could be the reason it came up on the test. So do you think the Ignition Controll Module could need replacing? And where can i get one if I don't want to spend $150 on one? What would you do in this situation? Thanks for listening to me -
Jason
If all else fails how does a 1996 or 1997 mitsubishi eclipse gs-t compare to my car? Would it be an even trade?
1. Mifire in # 5 cylander
2. EGR Valve
3. Mass Air Flow Sensor
Does this mean I have to replace the ERG Vlave and Mass Air Flow Sensor? Could I clean them out or something? They are both around $100! I don't see how the Mass Air Flow Sensor could need replacing since all it is is something air goes through. I have the SLP Cold air induction, could that be the cause of the problem?
I don't know what the misfire could be. I have all new coils, wires, and spark plugs. I took off the # 5 wire from the coil and noticed it wasn't sparking as rapid as it was when i got it a few weeks ago. I think this could be the reason it came up on the test. So do you think the Ignition Controll Module could need replacing? And where can i get one if I don't want to spend $150 on one? What would you do in this situation? Thanks for listening to me -
Jason
If all else fails how does a 1996 or 1997 mitsubishi eclipse gs-t compare to my car? Would it be an even trade?
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,151
From: I'm in the Bay, Trick
You can TRY to clean out the EGR but if it needs replacing, it needs replacing. The EGR valve isn't hard to replace...it is just expensive. I don't remember how much mine was...but it was more than just $100. I didn't notice any loss in performance...just the dumb SES.
As for the misfire, recheck to make sure everything is on tight enough and aren't loose.
Do you have any symptoms/reason to check for codes?
As for the misfire, recheck to make sure everything is on tight enough and aren't loose.
Do you have any symptoms/reason to check for codes?
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 355
From: No Va.
Originally posted by V6Power
You could clean the MAF. Get a cue tip and put some alcohol on it and "gently" clean the small wires on the sensor.
Screw the EGR. Buy a $5 blockoff plate.
You could clean the MAF. Get a cue tip and put some alcohol on it and "gently" clean the small wires on the sensor.
Screw the EGR. Buy a $5 blockoff plate.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 338
From: Clearwater, FL
I don't know GM was thinking with the EGR design on the 3800 engine, but man do they suck. I've already blown out one, cost me around $200 to get the part and the gasket from NAPA. Might as well just get a new one, it'll stop that annoying SES light from appearing. It's only 2 bolts and about 5 minutes of time to actually get the thing on.
The misfire could be caused by the MAF sending crackhead codes to your computer. Reset the SES on the car and then unplug the MAF and drive it around. When the MAF is unplugged, the car runs in "closed loop" mode, so it'll just use static patterns to run vs. trying to time the car based on sensors. If you still get the misfire, start checking the new stuff you put in first... start with the easiest. Do the wires, the coils, and lastly the plugs (still can't figure out GM's idea on plug placement on the 3800). If everything looks clean, check the big wire pack on the back of the ignition control module for any broken wires. If everything looks clean, and you're still misfiring, you can pick up a used ignition control module from any given salvage parts dealer dirt cheap. I think I paid like $50-$75 for a module out of a '97 Firebird with 3 perfectly good coils on it, so you can probably get the module even cheaper.
Whatever you do, don't trade you Chevy in for a Mitsubishi. Sure, the Mitsubishi might run, but there's nothing cool about a car whose paint falls off
My ex-girlfriend had a '94 Eclipse and the paint just fell off of it for no good reason!
The misfire could be caused by the MAF sending crackhead codes to your computer. Reset the SES on the car and then unplug the MAF and drive it around. When the MAF is unplugged, the car runs in "closed loop" mode, so it'll just use static patterns to run vs. trying to time the car based on sensors. If you still get the misfire, start checking the new stuff you put in first... start with the easiest. Do the wires, the coils, and lastly the plugs (still can't figure out GM's idea on plug placement on the 3800). If everything looks clean, check the big wire pack on the back of the ignition control module for any broken wires. If everything looks clean, and you're still misfiring, you can pick up a used ignition control module from any given salvage parts dealer dirt cheap. I think I paid like $50-$75 for a module out of a '97 Firebird with 3 perfectly good coils on it, so you can probably get the module even cheaper.
Whatever you do, don't trade you Chevy in for a Mitsubishi. Sure, the Mitsubishi might run, but there's nothing cool about a car whose paint falls off
My ex-girlfriend had a '94 Eclipse and the paint just fell off of it for no good reason!
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