V6 Tech 1967-2002 V6 Engine Related

coolant problem

Old Feb 16, 2008 | 05:54 PM
  #16  
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That is a very good price in my opinion, I have seen jobs like that go for 850+. The shop should have a method of testing for warpage or cracks. If not, then I'm sure they'll send it out to get checked with someone local. Since everything is apart, you might as well have him throw in some fresh plugs and wires if that hasn't been done in awhile. Depending if any coolant got into the crankcase, an oil change needs to be done, even an engine flush wouldn't be a bad idea.
Old Feb 16, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #17  
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out of curiosity after i do the head gaskets how long should i drive it at low rpm before i can start becoming a lead foot again lol i mean do you have to brake it in or?? also how can i check if my water pump is good?? because ever since i pit the thermostat back in it screeches a little bit so i dont know if thats a sign of the water pump. also the thermostat is a 195F thermostat but i say one for 180F and also 160F what do you guys prefer?
Old Feb 16, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by avie928
out of curiosity after i do the head gaskets how long should i drive it at low rpm before i can start becoming a lead foot again lol i mean do you have to brake it in or?? also how can i check if my water pump is good?? because ever since i pit the thermostat back in it screeches a little bit so i dont know if thats a sign of the water pump. also the thermostat is a 195F thermostat but i say one for 180F and also 160F what do you guys prefer?
Its not like you are having your motor rebuilt, there isn't an official break in period for a head gasket change. At least I have never heard of one. Usually bad water pumps are identified by coolant leakage from the weep hole, which is a small passage hole on the underside of the pump itself. If you are hearing noise, make sure that the pulley is tight to the pump and that it is not noise coming from another accessory ie: alternator, belt, belt tensionser, power steering pump,ect. As for the thermostat, if you change it, you will need some way in which the coolant fans can kick on sooner to take full advantage. I'm not sure how this is done on the 3.4L platform, whether it be PCM tuning or a manual fan switch.
Old Feb 17, 2008 | 01:40 PM
  #19  
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i found that one of the pulley was lose and i also changed the belt now it doesnt screech anymore thanks for the heads up on the pulley. i just bought a 160F thermostat i didnt put it in yet but there was also a 180F thermostat i didnt know which one to get as for the fan the mechanic before had grounded it to try to cover up the cooling problem that is caused by the head gasket so now the fan just stays on all the time so i still dont know which thermostat i should put it the 160F or the 180F

also tomorrow morning im going to bring it to the machanic to get the head gaskets done so hopefully that will be the end of that problem
Old Feb 17, 2008 | 02:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by avie928
i found that one of the pulley was lose and i also changed the belt now it doesnt screech anymore thanks for the heads up on the pulley. i just bought a 160F thermostat i didnt put it in yet but there was also a 180F thermostat i didnt know which one to get as for the fan the mechanic before had grounded it to try to cover up the cooling problem that is caused by the head gasket so now the fan just stays on all the time so i still dont know which thermostat i should put it the 160F or the 180F

also tomorrow morning im going to bring it to the machanic to get the head gaskets done so hopefully that will be the end of that problem
I'm pretty sure GM wouldn't put in a 160 degree thermo from the factory. I would guess it would be at least 180 degrees. Easy way of knowing would be to call the dealership. Seeing that it is a thermostat, it probably is going to be a reasonable enough cost where you could probably just buy it from there as well.
Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #21  
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well i returned the 160f thermostat ands i got the 180 and also i will bring the car to the mechanics at 8 am i hope that its just the gasket and that there is no cracks in the block so hopefully i will get it back in a few days i will let you know how it is the second i get it hopefully it will be fixed
Old Feb 24, 2008 | 06:03 AM
  #22  
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well i finally got the car back and it doesnt have the cooling problem anymore it turned out to be the head gasket and the mechanic told me that i had a screw that was broken inside and he figured it was the old mechanic that over torqued it but anyways there is still one problem it still doesnt pick up for anything i mean if your at a red light and you accelerate to 2500 or 3000 rpm you just start to move even if im at a red light and i let go of the brakes the car stays still so i dont know what to check or what i should be looking at to salve this problem the engine seems great right now so i dont know what it can be
Old Feb 24, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #23  
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what year car is this
Old Feb 25, 2008 | 06:32 AM
  #24  
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its a 94 3.4L one of my friends told me it seems like a loss of power in the engine?? so i dont know if it can be senors
Old Feb 25, 2008 | 08:04 AM
  #25  
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I'm sure you are getting pretty sick of the mechanic, but it might be worth a shot to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what the fuel pressure is doing during all of this. How is the car running when this lack of power occurs, any stumbling or erratic behavior? How current are you on the tuneup, plugs, wires,ect. Maybe a worn out part of the ignition system, one of the coil packs perhaps. Could be a number of things.
Old Feb 25, 2008 | 05:40 PM
  #26  
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i did a tune up about 3 months ago and i put the bosch platinum spark plugs with the four pins to create the spark and regular universal spark plug wires. i changed the oil filer and the oil last week also i put a new fuel pump and filter 2 months ago.

it would barely even move in i let go of the brakes and when i would hit the gas the rpm would go to 3000 rpm and then start to move.... i mean i couldnt even compete with a toyota camery lol but the weird part is its starting to get better slowly it seems like it is starting to have better pickup and everything. also when i would hit the gas and it would go to about 3000 rpm it would feel like if i was flooding the car with too much gas. im thinking about putting premium and also octane booster and just to run the car on the highway i dont know if that would help
Old Feb 25, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #27  
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octane booster is a waste of money. it raises your octane 3 points they mean 93 to 93.3
higher octane will do nothing. if the rpms go to 2500 rpm or 3000 and the car does not move you have a trans problem. it might be trying to start in a higher gear 2 or 3. sounds like it might need to see a trans shop. if you have any mechanic friends take them for a ride.
Old Feb 26, 2008 | 05:38 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by avie928
i did a tune up about 3 months ago and i put the bosch platinum spark plugs with the four pins to create the spark and regular universal spark plug wires. i changed the oil filer and the oil last week also i put a new fuel pump and filter 2 months ago.
I would stop wasting my time with gimmicky crap like Bosch plugs, but that's just me.

Bosch = great for Euro cars, bad for most everything else.

That may not solve everything--you haven't fixed the CE light/code issue--but it's a start in the right direction.
Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:19 PM
  #29  
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you can only produce one spark at a time. electricity takes the path of least resistance. if it hits every other terminal your plugs might last longer but a doubdle platinum will last 80000 miles. they are a waste of money
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:45 AM
  #30  
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I have 2, 3400 powered vehicles, BOTH had Intake gasket leaks, GM techs here say they're notorious on these motors, they're replaced hundreds!
Head gaskets are rare, according to them.
I just finished my '01 Venture, and the "plastic" gasket was cracked by the water passage, leaking coolant into the oil pan.
The '03 Rendezvous was leaking coolant and steam, outside, under the throttle body, hard to see except just after you park.
Both fixed by replacing Intake Gaskets only.
The replacements are steel-shim with thick, chemical resistant rubber seals.
GM probably save a buck or 2 by going plastic..

My Venture has a bad miss right now that I'm trying to fix too. At the top of 1st gear when it shifts and under hard acceleration...Ive tuned it up, new wires, filters, injector cleaner etc....I'm leaning towards the module.
Since I have 2 identical motors, i'll do some swaps and see for sure.

Last edited by 90rocz; Mar 23, 2008 at 01:49 AM.
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