stevenoshow

I was in the process of changing my fuel pump, and when I hooked everything back up back there, I wasn't getting any voltage to the pump(with the key in the on position). I disconnected the wiring harness from the air tight seal at the top of the pump assembly and was getting about 7 to 8 volts from the 3 stems up there. That brought me to the thought that there was something wrong with that connector(it looked like it had got pretty hot). I redid the wiring, but am still not getting any power to the peace that connects to the fuel pump. My fuel sending unit is working though, because I am getting an accurate reading on my dash when I move the float. I than went to turn the ignition, and it wouldn't crank.. I replaced the battery, and still no crank. I pulled the starter and took it to autozone, and had them run a test on it, and it worked perfectly fine, so I put it back in. There were multiple battery reconnects and disconnects in between there, because I had the hatch open and didn't want to kill the battery. When I turn the key, I get a "Abs inop" light and "check gages". I would run the codes, but I can't do the jumper trick with a paper clip, and OBD2 scanners only work on 96 and newer. I had a guy test it once, but I had to drive all the way out to where he lived, and he had some sort of special Snap On scanner which worked on it. I don't know if this could be something with the vats system, I am looking at the wiring diagram, and it says that there is an inline fuse between the battery and the ignition module, but I can't find it. All of the other fuses are okay, and the relay the pump is as well. I really don't know what else to do.

mightymouse383

you need to jump the red wire by the PCM with 12 volts, that is the fuel pump test wire. It should be taped to the main harness around PCM. Check all your grounds around the fuel tank, maybe you knocked one loose or damaged one during tank removal.