For those of you who remember I have been dealing with this EGR for almost 2 years. I replaced it, still got codes, replaced all the gaskets...still got the codes....cute the SES light, some peace of mind but still got the codes.

I was on the FirebirdV6 board and saw a post with the same problem. They recommended that I clean the pipe from the EGR to the intake. I soaked in Seafoam for an hour, and took brillo to the inside. i scrubbed that till it shined....guess what....NO MORE FRIGGIN CODES!!!

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Joel
God is my copilot, but Satan has his foot on the gas!!!
94 3.4L Auto Camaro Ragtop to go with my 1968 Bald-top (mods=MSD ignition, Accel coil packs and 8mm wires, 160 thermo, K&N FIPK,BMR SFC&STB, 3"Catco w/custom 3"catback w/00 SS muffler and tips), Jet Stage 2, Home made PIAA headlight conversion.
93 Honda Prelude SI-4WS
86 TVR 280i
http://www.geocities.com/cardiac1968/

 

I'm glad I could be of some service. I know I said that over there. Pissed me off I bought a new egr when I probably could have just cleaned that pipe and all really good. Then the dealer charges 200 to clean it really good.

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1995 3.4L v6 Camaro FIPK Spintech Cat-back.

 

Yeah, i bought a new EGR all 4 gaskets a new PCM (returned it) and I spent a but load of time trying to figure the damn phantom code out.

Thanks for your help. I was seriously stressed. I just moved to TX and in Houston they scan the car for emissions codes. Finally I can relax.

Thanx a million

 

hmmm... I might take mine off and give it a cleaning, I mean its only nearly 9 years old and has 118k miles on it.

Stupid emissions.

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1994 Medium Quaser Blue Camaro 3.4L V6 w/ 5-speed
Homeade CAI with a huge K&N cylinder filter, Single outlet Flowmaster with resonator, Accel 8mm ignition wires, Rapidfire plugs, 3.42 gears and posi off a 97 WS6, 1 piece steel driveshaft, Converted to 4-wheel disc brakes, 1LE transmision mount, 1LE sway bars, Prothane bushings and endlinks, BMR Strut tower brace, ASP underdrive pulleys, 160* stat
Lightest Weight W/out driver: 3160
15.696@86.22 with a 2.214 60'!
Best R/T .507
Best 60' 2.078
Father's Stock 2000 Navy Blue Camaro 3.8L V6 w/ 5-speed
15.875@88.25 With wheel spin in 1st
15s are cool!
AIM: MustangEater82

 

Mine started giving me trouble at 75K....at 115K it is fixed....I can't even tell you haw happy it makes me....this little problem has been getting deeper and deeper under my skin......sorry can we say **** retentive?

 

20 months!!!!!!!!!!!!

You should be ashamed of yourself for taking that long to figure what was wrong and getting it fixed...

.......glad to see its all fixed and back to normal.

Gives us 3.4 owners a heads-up and what to expect.

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Max
'95 Camaro V6..BB Triflo quad-tip catback, 180 degree Themostat, WaterWetter, K&N Air Filter, AC Delco Rapidfire Spark plugs, TB-Bypass, BMR Chrome-Moly STB, Front & Rear 1LE Sway Bars, 255/50/16 Eagle GS-C & F1 Steel, Dark Tinted Windows. Fog-lights on when Hi-Beam On Mod done tooooo.
www.home.earthlink.net/~airspeedy2

'99.5 F-250 SuperDuty CrewCab,PowerStroke Diesel, 2wd, Torreador Red, TS Extreme Chip & LPG, BTS Tranny & Converter, Maddog Stage 2 Injectors, TTS "Hybrid" Turbo (35psi max. boost), Detroit Locker ......14.2@99mph. 436rwhp/869ft.lbs.
...lets just say its not stock.....well DUH!

 

Just replaced mine...it was stuck open.

I'm actually getting worse fuel efficiency now then when the SES was on...

Oh well...had to pass smog.

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-Nathan
1996 Camaro
3.8L Series II, SLP CAI, Catco cat, Taylor 8mm wires, LSD, 3.42 gears, Borla catback.
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T
Twin Turbo Intercooled 3.0L AWD M6,A'PEXi AVC-R boost control, HKS Blow-off valve, K&N FIPK, Denso Iridium plugs, 245/40/18 Kumho Supra, Borla Catback, Mobil 1 fluids.
*VVvvTTttFFff* TNC since 1981!

 

Maybe I need to try that before I get p*ssed off enough at it to rip the SOB off and make block off plates.

 

well my light comes on i got it blocked off
at the gasket from the tube to the upper intake so egr is pointless for me

 

can u post directions of what to do. i dont wanna mess anything up, there is so much stuff around it i cant tell whats goin on. do u have to take off the alternator bracket also. thanks

 

Most of the removal of the pipe is easy. You do need to remove the one bracket to the alt. Just remove the nut, slide the bolt out enough to remove the bracket and then just remove the bracket....It would be hard to mess anything up.

Just a hint.
1. mark or remember which end of the pipe goes where....they don't fit well if you reverse them.....but more importantly.
2. Use a little form-a-gasket to hold the gasket in place...they are slippery buggers and once you tighten them down and then loosen them up, it will be difficult to get a good seal w/out form-a-gasket (which at this point is all I am using).

I wrote this from memory, so there may be a mistake or two, but in all it is not too tough. If you are nervous or think you may run into any problems, email me and I will send you my cell number.

 

If you do decide to do it shoot me an email, maybe we can meet up somewhere and do it at the same time. That way you can keep me from screwing something up.... I'm also still getting an SES and I can't think of anything else that isn't EGR related that it could be.

 

what are the symptoms of a bad EGR?

 

Usually a SES light (usually on deceleration on the highway or taking the foot off the gas after acceleration) and code...so you should get your codes read....other signs and symptoms are rough idle and drop in gas mileage.

 

mmmm..i've got rough idle and i get like 16 mpg in the city might have to try this trick out....i don't get any lights though....and i'll have to dig up my code reader....