WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
im gonna be picking up a 97 WS6 in a few weeks hopefully and i have a spare set of Eibach Pro's. i was just wondering if its worth changing the WS6 springs. the car sits very well right now but i was wondering if it would be worth it or just get rid of the Eibachs and do something else with that cash. thoughts?
matt
matt
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
I think it would be worth it. The ride will be a little stiffer and if your gonna be drag racing they will give you a little bit better of a lunch. They will lower your car anywhere between 1.5 to 1.75 inches so if you don't want to lower it then I wouldn't do it. They seem to drop your vehicle a good amount. But hey if you want to get rid of them let me know.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
well the car has the stock 17" WS6 wheels, and sits very good. there is a little bit of wheel well gap but not much. on my 93 Z i had 17" ZR1s with stock springs and there was a TON of wheel well gap, which is why i got the spring in the first place. so i know the WS6 sits lower, but im wondering if the Eibachs will lower it even more. thanks for your input.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
"The ride will be a little stiffer and if your gonna be drag racing they will give you a little bit better of a lunch"

are you nuts?!!!
lowering springs are about the worse thing you can do to a drag car!! a lower center of gravity isn't what you want. you want weight transfer, which is very similar to having a higher center of gravity. by lowering the car and stiffening the rear springs you reduce the squat in the rear, which means less weight is transfered to the rear wheels. this means that you will be decreasing traction.
ever wonder why pro steet cars usually sit with their noses higher and when they launch the rear end squats?
also lowering the car throws the geometry of the rear suspension off, in 2 ways. one is minimal to launching, and just deals with the rear axle shifting to one side, an adjustable PHB is the cure for that
the other is the location of the anchor points of the LCAs. by lowering the rear you are decreasing the angle at which the LCAs line up with the front mount. this means that when the axle twists under launch conditions the LCAs are less effective at counteracting this rotation...resulting in ecessive wheelhop. this means that the tire is leaving the pavement under heavy acceleration. that is why they make LCA relocation brackets, to drop the rear mounting point of the LCAs to give a more optimal angle to prevent axle twist and the resulting wheel hop.
now Mook i know you and i had a little pissing war a few weeks ago and now maybe you see why. you are giving mis-information.
you're giving equivalent advise to running snow tires over drag radials for better traction at the drag strip.
if you don't know what you're talking about...don't talk. makes you sound like a ricer.

are you nuts?!!!
lowering springs are about the worse thing you can do to a drag car!! a lower center of gravity isn't what you want. you want weight transfer, which is very similar to having a higher center of gravity. by lowering the car and stiffening the rear springs you reduce the squat in the rear, which means less weight is transfered to the rear wheels. this means that you will be decreasing traction.
ever wonder why pro steet cars usually sit with their noses higher and when they launch the rear end squats?
also lowering the car throws the geometry of the rear suspension off, in 2 ways. one is minimal to launching, and just deals with the rear axle shifting to one side, an adjustable PHB is the cure for that
the other is the location of the anchor points of the LCAs. by lowering the rear you are decreasing the angle at which the LCAs line up with the front mount. this means that when the axle twists under launch conditions the LCAs are less effective at counteracting this rotation...resulting in ecessive wheelhop. this means that the tire is leaving the pavement under heavy acceleration. that is why they make LCA relocation brackets, to drop the rear mounting point of the LCAs to give a more optimal angle to prevent axle twist and the resulting wheel hop.
now Mook i know you and i had a little pissing war a few weeks ago and now maybe you see why. you are giving mis-information.
you're giving equivalent advise to running snow tires over drag radials for better traction at the drag strip.
if you don't know what you're talking about...don't talk. makes you sound like a ricer.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
back on topic...
depending on the conditions of the roads in your area, how the car actually looks, your planned mods (LTs), and intended use for the car (drag, street, autoX)...the lowering springs may or may not be the best choice.
depending on the conditions of the roads in your area, how the car actually looks, your planned mods (LTs), and intended use for the car (drag, street, autoX)...the lowering springs may or may not be the best choice.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
Alright Teke you wanna start calling names again. Let see here I put eibach lowering springs adj lca's and brackets and for some reason I consitantly lost
.2 seconds of my et. and about .15 off my 60ft time so let me see here lca brakets supposedly take off .1 of a second. I wonder were that other .1 came from. Now you may think you know more about some subjects like the fact that snow tires won't give better traction than slicks on a drag track. But for your information we got into a pissing match because you said I didn't search a topic not me giving out miss-information.
By the way how are those predented flowtech headers. You must have spent to much money on that useless 160 degree thermo and a fan switch to afford some decent parts for you car. Let me guess your the same type of person that thinks stickers add horse power. So next time you wanna call someone a ricer pick someone that doesn't know what they are talking about.
Oh one other thing thats a pretty cute chick you got on your sig IF YOU LIKE GUYS WITH BIKINI'S ON ALWAYS THOUGHT SOMETHING WAS FRUITY ABOUT YOU
So to you teke stay in your lane
.2 seconds of my et. and about .15 off my 60ft time so let me see here lca brakets supposedly take off .1 of a second. I wonder were that other .1 came from. Now you may think you know more about some subjects like the fact that snow tires won't give better traction than slicks on a drag track. But for your information we got into a pissing match because you said I didn't search a topic not me giving out miss-information.
By the way how are those predented flowtech headers. You must have spent to much money on that useless 160 degree thermo and a fan switch to afford some decent parts for you car. Let me guess your the same type of person that thinks stickers add horse power. So next time you wanna call someone a ricer pick someone that doesn't know what they are talking about.
Oh one other thing thats a pretty cute chick you got on your sig IF YOU LIKE GUYS WITH BIKINI'S ON ALWAYS THOUGHT SOMETHING WAS FRUITY ABOUT YOU
So to you teke stay in your lane
Last edited by mook99TA; Nov 22, 2005 at 10:12 AM.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
you crack me up chief...
so you're telling me that a suspension part gives an exact decrease in time, no matter the car, track, tire or driver?? you honestly think brackets on 10 different cars will yeild EXACTLY .1sec better times? there isn't a chance that one car could pick up .13s another .098s and another .15s??
it isn't possible that it the brackets gave you the added grip both on the launch and on the shifts to pick up all that ET? and from what i always heard, and i'm giving the disclaimer now that i don't have first hand knowledge of this, that for every .1sec in your short time, you'll double it at the end of the track.
did you change shocks at the same time as you springs? COULD IT BE that your old ones were not giving the best performance. so that the traction from the brackets and the addition of new shocks could have increased the amount of ET you lost...not having any affect on whether you put lowering springs on or not?
besides...where in this post:
I think it would be worth it. The ride will be a little stiffer and if your gonna be drag racing they will give you a little bit better of a lunch. They will lower your car anywhere between 1.5 to 1.75 inches so if you don't want to lower it then I wouldn't do it. They seem to drop your vehicle a good amount. But hey if you want to get rid of them let me know.
do you see anything about mentioning that you installed the brackets too?? i think i was the one suggesting brackets, am i supposed to know what you had installed? but most guys will tell you, lowering springs alone will adversely affect your traction....given no other changes to the suspension.

and where did the comments about the headers and stat come from? did i ruffle your feathers enought that you need to search to find way to try to insult me?? haha
lets see down here in south florida the stat keeps my car running at a nice cool 175deg consistently even in light traffic. sounds like a benefit to me.
the fan switch i bought with 3 other mods for a total price of about $100....and i bought them the first month i owned a 4th gen back in the spring of 2001.
did you even have your drivers licence then??
all 3 of those mods i later found out were pointless, the SLP air temp module, afpr (obd2 computer compensates for it), and a hypertech power module (inline box similar to a "chip" on older cars). all were removed within a year, and sold for more than i paid for everything in the first place.
now the fan switch is great, because for 4yrs i didn't reprogram the car, no need to really, so i still had stock fan settings. so it was nice for when i was stuck in traffic on the highway or in town to be able to flip the switch and keep the car running a nice cool 175degs. please inform me as to why that is a useless mod?
and now i can use it when i'm scanning my car and working on it with it running to keep it cool while i sit in the driveway.
i don't run at the track...i never claimed to have that switch for anything other than peace of mind knowing i can keep my engine from overheating in 100+ deg temps.
and as for the "dented" headers...the dent is all of a 1/16" deep and i think came from shipping. no harm no foul.
i still only paid $600 for coated headers, PERFECTLY fitting Ypipe, o2 extensions, new gaskets, egr and air blockoff plates WITH new gaskets for those, and shipping to my door.
i guess i fail to see the insult in all of that...but then again..i'm not you THANK GOD.
and to everyone else...
i'm sorry for all this...i'm done.
Last edited by teke184; Nov 22, 2005 at 10:52 AM.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
Originally Posted by 69z-28
anyone have any other thoughts or most of all personal experience with this?

Now THAT was pretty funny!!!
Not you, what happened in this thread!
RE: Changing springs, I would check & see what kind of springs are in the car, maybe the car has the SLP optional springs for instance??? Or maybe your WS6 might even have the SLP Eibach shocks too for that matter...
Find out first, you may not have to use the Eibach Pro's after all.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
69z-28: It really depends on what your plans are for the car. If it's going to be a trailer queen that you are bracket racing with, ditch the springs. If it's going to be your autocross rocket, then put 'em on (plus some LCA relocation brackets, shocks that match the springs, PHB, etc.)! If it's going to be your daily driver, then just remember that the springs will give you an inferior ride on bumpy roads but better handling in the corners (and kick *** looks
). The wheel well gap isn't bad on the '97 WS6, but the car is gonna look **** with some lowering springs.
Abe
). The wheel well gap isn't bad on the '97 WS6, but the car is gonna look **** with some lowering springs.Abe
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
the car is gonna be a daily driver/street car that ill prolly race at the track once in a while. im a highschool who knows who is wise with money, but as of now i dont have much, but i do have the springs layin around. ill prolly throw them in how the car is, and then around summer time i might get some LCA's, brackets and PHB. thanks for the thoughts guys.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
If its just going to be a street car and you like the looks, I dont think the pro-kit would be a bad idea. Like Teke said though, its definately not ideal at all for a drag car to be running stiffer springs.
Another thing to take into consideration is, if youre going to run the pro-kit, youre going to want some better shocks. The higher spring rates of the pro-kit are too much for the stock shocks to control. Hell, the stock shocks are dont even do well with the stock springs. A set of nice shocks is probably the best thing you can do to upgrade your car's ride handling.
You'll probaly end up wiht a really rough ride running the pro-kit on stock shocks, maybe even bottoming out from time to time. You'd want at the very least something along the lines of Bilstein HD's. Then like Teke said, you'll want to get an adjustable panhard bar and a set of LCA relocation brackets to re-correct the lowered cars suspension goemetry. If I were you I'd wait to lower the car until I could do everything atleast the shocks at the same time.
Lastly, just consider the fact that you may want to run headers in the future. If so, you really may want to think about ground clearance. Some people get by with headers and lowering springs, other end up going back to stock springs after scraping too much.
Another thing to take into consideration is, if youre going to run the pro-kit, youre going to want some better shocks. The higher spring rates of the pro-kit are too much for the stock shocks to control. Hell, the stock shocks are dont even do well with the stock springs. A set of nice shocks is probably the best thing you can do to upgrade your car's ride handling.
You'll probaly end up wiht a really rough ride running the pro-kit on stock shocks, maybe even bottoming out from time to time. You'd want at the very least something along the lines of Bilstein HD's. Then like Teke said, you'll want to get an adjustable panhard bar and a set of LCA relocation brackets to re-correct the lowered cars suspension goemetry. If I were you I'd wait to lower the car until I could do everything atleast the shocks at the same time.
Lastly, just consider the fact that you may want to run headers in the future. If so, you really may want to think about ground clearance. Some people get by with headers and lowering springs, other end up going back to stock springs after scraping too much.
Re: WS6 springs vs. Eibach pro's
Before you go and spend around $200 on prokit springs, make sure your car doesn't already have them. Because SLP had the option on SS's, and WS6's that came with Bilstein HD shocks/struts and the eibach prokit. You best check, otherwise, you might spend money on something your car already has. Good luck. Oh, and I run 18in Z06 wheels, 295/35/18 rear, 275/35/18 on the front, before and after I put on my Eibach sportline springs, which is more agressive than the prokit, and I didn't lose any time in the 1/8th, or the 1/4 due to the spring and biltsien HD shock/strut change. Car is more stiff and more rough though, but has a very nice stance.


