my 98 Z28 has warped rotors i think, it wobbles sometimes when I brake, sometimes pretty bad. Also, I went to get my tires rotated and the monkey broke off the stud that the lug nut attaches to on the right rear side. He said it was the other persons fault etc and he warned me before it happened that it would. My question is, is this easy to do myself. I was thinking about getting performance brakes now, are there any rotors that are pretty reasonable. Also, can I use my stock calipers and brake pads if I get new rotors?

 

The roters are not hard at all. As for replacing a stud, its alot easier if it's a front rotor.

Front: Remove the caliper and roter, use penetrating oil on the stud, place block of wood behind the spindle to absorb the force, and hammer the stud out. If it's broken off flush with the hole, use a fine point cold chisel.

Rear: Basically same as the steps above, but sometimes you must pull the axles (not complicated but a mess/hassle) if the stud will not slide in. Unless you grind down a lip on the caliper bracket (no traction control) or rotate the axle until there is an opening in the reluctor ring to access/slide it through (traction control). The later is complicated to explain and I can give a link to a how-to.

As for a roter "upgrade" there are tons of options around. You can use your stock calipers/pads with most upgraded roters. But most choose to update their pads at the same time. Beyond that, If you get a aftermarket brake setup, you will need bigger calipers and roters though (and a bigger wallet).

 

Wrong!!!!!!
Both WASY FRONT AND BACK!!!!
There is a little oval shaped dent in the backs so rotate your stud that is broken until You hit that spot and take a hammer and pound it out, slip in new one put on just rotor and screw the lug nut on until it pull out the stud!! Done!!

 

You sir, are an idiot. (!!!) If you get the new style LT1 studs or need the longer LS1 studs, (Drum to Disc conversion) or even ARP studs, or hell even often with the stock studs you will be powerless with that indention you speak of. Especially with a traction controlled vehicle. And you never said how I was wrong on the front? And what kind of fool uses his roters to screw in the stud? I might use two roters, (front to front) to minimise the damage, but one? And its better to use two grade 8 washers and a spare lug nut for the install. Besides I never told him how to install the new stud, since he hadn't replied. I wish all life's problem were simple like in your world (!!!)Learn to use caps, then learn how to give advice.

 

MistaCamawo:

If you have TCS, you might want to try a "search". I recall a post a while back that had a procedure that I believe involved removing the calipers and then removing the TCS sensor from the backing plate, and using that hole to allow replacing the studs without pulling the axles. I did try a "search", and found at least one post by an individual who did the replacement without pulling the axles, but I couldn't find the post with the procedure.