Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes Shocks, springs, cages, brakes, sub-frame connectors, etc.

Upgrading Stock Suspension

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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 09:39 PM
  #1  
football4life's Avatar
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Upgrading Stock Suspension

Well I have finally got my motor done. Now I want to start on my suspension, but I have no idea where to start. I have a 94 z28 with t-tops. I'm gonna drive it on the street and a little at the track. I'm looking for a good guide to making my suspension better; Maybe some guys can post up their setup and tell how good it is?

Thanks
Josh
Old Apr 19, 2009 | 09:44 PM
  #2  
silentsprintero's Avatar
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From: Morton IL
Most people will suggest LCA's and relocation brackets, SFC's, adjustable PHB, and good shocks and springs. A common setup is revalved Bilstein's and your choice of springs.

Send a PM to or call up Sam Strano, he'll get you on the right track fast with awesome parts. Here's his website: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbymodel.php?ModelID=2
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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Yeah +1 on Stranoparts.com
Great guy and awesome products.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #4  
Hal Fisher's Avatar
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1LE front and rear sway bars with poly end-links/mounts. These are much cheaper and work as well if not better than too big a bars. Don't go very tight with the rear sway-bar end-links. If you go too tight the rear feels like it wants to swing around when cornering even at moderate speed. I wound up going pretty loose to get it to handle neutrally but it still feels better than stock. Also, to tighten up the front even more go with a strut tower brace. You can never make the front too precise.

Make sure you go with the LCA relocation brackets (these have to be welded in). Choose the setting that allows the LCA to be level at ride height (second lowest?). This will help it track straighter when launching.

All this will require an alignment. Make sure you go to a shop that has the special jig bar.

Also, this is a good time to go with the 98+ upgraded brakes. The stock calipers/rotors are too small so require a lot of pressure on the brakes to hold in drive at stops. This is well worth the money it costs to install and have a shop bleed.

Last edited by Hal Fisher; Apr 21, 2009 at 12:57 AM.
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #5  
Bud M's Avatar
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From: Sacramento
Originally Posted by Hal Fisher
1LE front and rear sway bars with poly end-links/mounts. These are much cheaper and work as well if not better than too big a bars. Don't go very tight with the rear sway-bar end-links. If you go too tight the rear feels like it wants to swing around when cornering even at moderate speed. I wound up going pretty loose to get it to handle neutrally but it still feels better than stock. Also, to tighten up the front even more go with a strut tower brace. You can never make the front too precise.

Make sure you go with the LCA relocation brackets (these have to be welded in). Choose the setting that allows the LCA to be level at ride height (second lowest?). This will help it track straighter when launching.

All this will require an alignment. Make sure you go to a shop that has the special jig bar.

Also, this is a good time to go with the 98+ upgraded brakes. The stock calipers/rotors are too small so require a lot of pressure on the brakes to hold in drive at stops. This is well worth the money it costs to install and have a shop bleed.
I can't agree with some of this post. I've been through several swaybars and I can tell you that 1LE bars (if you can even find any) aren't the hot setup. I've had BMR 32/21 solid, ST 35/25 solid and Strano 35 hollow. Go with Strano bars, they are the best.

SHOCK tower braces provide only a very minor improvement, don't make that a priority.

Bolt in LCA brackets are available too and they work fine, I've had bolt in BMRs in my car for years now, no problems. However, until you lower the car, they aren't a high priority item either unless you are spending a lot of time at the strip.

With these mods, an alignment is not necessary assuming your alignment is ok to start with. Alignment is needed when you start changing springs and A arms and such.

I do agree with upgrading the brakes, but that's not what you asked about.

So my suggestions would be

1. Call Sam Strano and put together a package of springs, shocks and swaybars

2. 17 or 18 inch wheels and tires.

3. Upgrade rear LCAs (not poly/poly) and brackets and panhard bar.
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #6  
Hal Fisher's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA
I've broken Progressive Suspension front swaybar mounts with my setup. Ripped the bolts right out of the mount. They've never seen that before. You can buy the most expensive stuff out there or you can buy stuff that works.

There is a reason they make strut tower braces, they perform a function just a thicker swaybar can't do. Plus, they dress up the engine bay more.

Of course you want to lower it, these cars look ridicules riding so high. And after that you'll need an alignment. I think Eibach makes the best springs. They are progressive rate, not single rate that are good at the track but give a bone jaring ride everywhere else. Go with the Pro line because the Sport line are too low (I think they have them named backward, the Pro's should be super low and the Sport should be higher).

You may also want to put a drag air bag under the rear spring on the one side (I think it's the right side but forget because I don't drag race). That way you don't have to go too thick of a rear swaybar which would throw the handling off.

You never mentioned rims at all but yea, you can find some great looking rims at 18 10.5 rear and front 17 9.5 for under 600. After that some Nitto drag radials or extremes would really tame the spin.

Hal
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #7  
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From: Central Valley, California
Thumbs up

Weld in subframe connectors, front LCA bushings (oem), good shocks (Koni SAs,Bilstein SLP frt & 3rd gen spts rear, Edelbrock IAS), rear LCA's (IMO, J&M), PHB (single adj.).

If you are planning to lower: Strano, Hotchkis, H&R, Vogtland, Edelbrock IAS.

Later if you want to add sway bars: Strano or Hotchkis,(both are a hollow design).

Last edited by bluz28; Apr 23, 2009 at 02:05 PM.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:57 PM
  #8  
football4life's Avatar
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From: Missouri
Thanks guys, this is some pretty great stuff. I have emailed Sam but haven't gotten around to talking to him yet.

I already have 17x9 rims with 275/40 and I have upgraded the brakes.

I think what I'm gonna end up doing for the summer is some new springs. I dont want too much drop tho because I have LT pacesetters. I'm going to do springs first then get an alignment. I need to find a set of springs that are good but do not break the bank too much.

Then, I would like to do rear LCAs and bolt in brackets, and maybe I will add in a panhard bar.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 01:19 AM
  #9  
wdtiger's Avatar
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From: Anchorage, AK
Originally Posted by Hal Fisher
There is a reason they make strut tower braces, they perform a function just a thicker swaybar can't do. Plus, they dress up the engine bay more.

Hal
We don't use struts. The lateral loads that are placed up high on the tower is much less than that of a strut suspended car. IMHO, "Strut" tower braces on 4th gens should be among the last things you get, as there are much better things to spend the money on that will give you results you can feel.
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