Ok so here goes guys I almost never post questions but I have searched & need some feedback

I got my car done finally & had it aligned after installing my summit lowering springs took it down about 1.5 inches

I know the guys at the shop & they do a great job but they have set the car to stock specs & the wheels are towed in on both sides as well as in on the the wheels are in on the top of both sides

I called my guy & he said it is on with stock specs & if I can get the specs to set it with the lowering springs they will adjust it out

now everything except control arms is new & I mean all of it

I have 275 40 17 on z06 replicas

the car also pulls a bit on the highway but this could be from the tires as I saw in other posts

now to be fair my guy has not seen the car again yet& I think it is probably out a bit more then it should be but I figure if I go in there with some settings from you guys on the board that are fairly accurate I will get it done properly

any feedback would be recommended I could not find any clear answers on this from the search

thanks
eddie

 

Check the 4th Gen FAQ:

http://www.ws6.com/faq/4_5.htm#ch4_5d

I used something similar with the Eibach Pro-Kit and it worked great. No problems with tire wear. +4 caster, -1 camber and 0.1 toe.

 

thanks injuneer
I will give that a shot & post back!!

 

Hey, not to knock anyone but I work at a GM dealer which is besides the point but I do 95% of the alignments. A good tech can use the specs suggested and make his own judgement for road crown, height, type of driving and the list goes on

 

Obviously the specs that Injuneer posted are a "suggested" setup for Eibach's. But in your opinion, for a street driven car, would you go with 0.1 toe-out, as suggested, or toe-in? Also, would you run that much negative camber (-1.0°)?

... just curious . My car is lowered, and had a really aggressive setup for the track, but I'm "retiring" it from track duty, and would prefer a more "tame" street setup now .

I also wonder if the darty feeling is more to do with the wide front tires than the actual alignment?

 

I bet you still drive more agressive than the average driver, with taking corners.
I would still run from -.5 to -1 camber up front(I'm currently running -.8 camber) and I've alway have ran 1/32 toe-in, with great results.
That darty feeling probably has more to do with the tire design, I had a set of nice pirelli that were really bad about that.

 

I've been running -1° camber on my lowered daily driver for ages. Toe is practically neutral. 4.5 ° caster. 275-40-17s. No excess tire wear.

 

I agree......

they should be able to drive it and figure it out.


what about bump steer?

 

I took the specs back to them & he stated it is to extreme
I have since realized that this guys just does not understand how to fix this becuase I have the tires visibly towed in & top of wheels in also
plus I was driving in the rain last noght & I thought the car was going to run off the road!!!

I have another friend of mine that has a alighnment rack & did scca racing for years he is going to take a look & reset it.

I also think I have an issue up front somewhere which is frustrating because everything & I mean everything besides that actual contral arms is new even the bushings.

I am getting a bunch of wandering now with about 300 miles on it & the steering wheel seems to be shifting position but all is attached & tight.

I am starting to think me steering rack has some issues also ( which again is also new)

anyway sorry to ramble but I appreciate all the feedback & wanted to contribute all the facts here.

I will post back in a couple weeks when I get it back from my buddies shop & have it fixed

thanks for all the input guys!!

 

I do my alignments in the back yard with a caster/camber gauge. I did them at gm and chrystler dealers...... so as long as you know what your doing and whats going on it not that big of an issue.

One thing I have noticed is guys that do them alot of times can only do whats in their computer as far as specs.... outside of that, 4x4 or performance type stuff they don't have aclue as to how to align stuff.

 

Most shops in my area wouldn't touch a lowered car. And many of them didn't realize the 4th Gen suspension was totally different from the 3rd Gen "strut" suspension, and told me they couldn't align it.

The one shop that was willing to work on my car was also willing to use my specs. They have served me well for 12 years.

 

Yeah, one shop I went to in my area would only align it to factory specs. They said it was because of warranty. I told them I did not care about the warranty and they still would not do it. I guess they did not want to be responsible for anything that might happen. I just went somewhere else.

 

I run -2° camber, zero toe, +4.3° caster. When you run a lot of camber, zeroing out the toe will help quite a bit with tire wear. I was also told by a few shops that they wouldn't work on a lowered car, or that they would only do oem specs. It definitely helps to ask around and find a shop that's friendly to competition specs if that's what you're after. I wound up going to a Subaru shop.

Toe will affect the darty feeling. You want a little bit of toe-in if stability is what you're after. My ice racer has 1/2" of toe out (yes, i said that right, one half inch of toe out!). It's responds awesome on the ice, but it's a pain in the *** to drive on dry roads. Not to mention the horrendous tire wear. It doesn't get driven much, haha. If your roads are rutted, wide, low profile tires will pull like a bitch in them no matter what you do with the alignment.

 

props to camaro feedback from alaska
thanks for the input everyone!!
I am taking to my buddies shop in a week or so & see how it comes out