Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 953
From: Montreal, Canada Not Quebec
Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
I am looking into getting some LCA's and wa wonder which of the two available types woudl be best for a street car that sees the track a few times a summer, and why one is better t han the other?
Thanks!.
Thanks!.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 916
From: putnam, Ct
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
i posted the sme question a few days ago. heres what i was told. the boxed lcas are better for drag, tubular for street use. i was also told if i use the tubular lcas, to get them with a poly/rod end combo
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Okemos, MI
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
Yup. For a mostly-street-driven car that sees the trac occasionaly, you'll want tubular components, either with poly/poly or combo ends. The combo end will be a little tighter (harsher) and will create some additional vibration in the car. Typically, the type of person that's doing these mods won't be bothered by those things, so we tend to recommend combo pieces.
If ride quality is really important to you, you might want to go with poly/poly ends.
If ride quality is really important to you, you might want to go with poly/poly ends.
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Joined: Nov 1998
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
Originally Posted by 95LT1conv
i posted the sme question a few days ago. heres what i was told. the boxed lcas are better for drag, tubular for street use. i was also told if i use the tubular lcas, to get them with a poly/rod end combo
The same Spohn tubulars pushed this 3,525# car to 8.60@160+mph, with a 1.30 60-ft time. I'd say that would indicate that tubulars are just fine for "drag". Why would you want the added weight of a box-section arm?
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 242
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
Round tube is actually stronger/stiffer than square tube. The only reason some companies are advertising their square or rectangular being stronger than their round tube is the pure size difference of the material they are using. I believe some companies are using 1 1/4", 1 1/2", or 1 5/8” round versus the square being upwards of 1 1/2" x 3". If you take our control arms for example, they are made from 1.75" round tube. This round tubing will be stronger and lighter than the same 1.75" square tube which by the way both are overkill with how the lower control arms are loaded. What ever you do don’t waste your money on chrome moly arms unless you can get proof that they have been stress relieved and heat treated after welding.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 953
From: Montreal, Canada Not Quebec
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
Originally Posted by OBE1 95Z28
Poly/poly will cause the rear suspension to bind while cornering. I run poly/sperical joint with minimal noise/vibration transferred to the body.
so what is the best combo for my applictaion?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 953
From: Montreal, Canada Not Quebec
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
As far as LCA's go budget isnt much of a problem because even thebest LCA's are relativly inexpensive , I basically want whats best for the use that my car is going to see, comfort and performance as much as possible anyways lol.
polly bushings are a little more harsh and noisier than rubber but do they actually cause you supension to bind as mentioned above to the point that it will cause problems during daily driving? I guess thats what my question really is at this point.
polly bushings are a little more harsh and noisier than rubber but do they actually cause you supension to bind as mentioned above to the point that it will cause problems during daily driving? I guess thats what my question really is at this point.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 607
From: North of Boston, MA
Re: Tubular or Boxed LCA's?
taken from bmr fabrications site...
When i do mine, im going with tubular.
"Which is better, tubular or boxed control arms?"
This has to be our most commonly asked question. We personally feel that either design is equally as strong for the load that the F-body chassis places on them. Because the F-body uses a control arm/torque-arm combination, very little lateral loading is placed on the control arms themselves. The torque-arm takes the lateral loading while the control arms are subjected mainly to a "compression" loading as the rear tries to push them forward into the chassis under acceleration. While an excessive lateral load would dictate the use of stronger(laterally) rectangular tubing, compression loading is much easier to handle and round tubing(of appropriate size)is more than sufficient. Bottom line: if you are an overkill nut and are willing to spend a little more then go with the boxed design, otherwise save a little money and get the tubular arms.
This has to be our most commonly asked question. We personally feel that either design is equally as strong for the load that the F-body chassis places on them. Because the F-body uses a control arm/torque-arm combination, very little lateral loading is placed on the control arms themselves. The torque-arm takes the lateral loading while the control arms are subjected mainly to a "compression" loading as the rear tries to push them forward into the chassis under acceleration. While an excessive lateral load would dictate the use of stronger(laterally) rectangular tubing, compression loading is much easier to handle and round tubing(of appropriate size)is more than sufficient. Bottom line: if you are an overkill nut and are willing to spend a little more then go with the boxed design, otherwise save a little money and get the tubular arms.
When i do mine, im going with tubular.
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