"Tight" on accel......
"Tight" on accel......
In my 2100 mile trip from CT to NM I've had ample time to really get to know my car.
I've taken a couple nice curves at speeds acceeding 80+ MPH. (in the desert and Rt40 through Oklahoma) I'm a NASCAR guy, so the term "TIGHT" to me means that she doesn't want to turn.... -mabie "understeer" to the rest of y'all. I have especially noticed that my stock suspended car(spring, sway bar and shocks -untouched) is tight under acceleration through a long turn doing over 80 mph. When I let go of the throttle she steers more.
What causes this? I'm not worried, just wondering which component this would be related to. Sway bars??
I've taken a couple nice curves at speeds acceeding 80+ MPH. (in the desert and Rt40 through Oklahoma) I'm a NASCAR guy, so the term "TIGHT" to me means that she doesn't want to turn.... -mabie "understeer" to the rest of y'all. I have especially noticed that my stock suspended car(spring, sway bar and shocks -untouched) is tight under acceleration through a long turn doing over 80 mph. When I let go of the throttle she steers more.
What causes this? I'm not worried, just wondering which component this would be related to. Sway bars??
Re: "Tight" on accel......
Under power the weight shifts to the rear, giving the rear wheels more traction compared to the front, the front tires can't get the grippy rear end to turn so the car understeers or is tight.
When you get off the gas the weight shifts to the front and the front wheels can turn the car better since the front has more traction and the rear has less so the car gets looser.
Can be tuned with tire pressure, springs and sway bars, shocks will help some also but mainly in transitions not long sweeping curves.
Get a hollow front 35mm sam strano bar or at least a hollow 32mm 1LE bar and some new shocks, bilstein or koni, nobody else makes much that will handle good. Leave the springs alone if the car is mainly street. Somebody will pipe up and suggest SFC, don't do it until you see how you like the bar and shocks.
Large bars in the front normally make a car understeer. But with the f-body you stop the roll and the camber at the front wheels stays in a better range, so you gain front traction, which makes the car more balanced and less tight.
This is all general suggestions, if you want to know how to setup f-bodies go to www.frrax.com and do some searching.
Z28
When you get off the gas the weight shifts to the front and the front wheels can turn the car better since the front has more traction and the rear has less so the car gets looser.
Can be tuned with tire pressure, springs and sway bars, shocks will help some also but mainly in transitions not long sweeping curves.
Get a hollow front 35mm sam strano bar or at least a hollow 32mm 1LE bar and some new shocks, bilstein or koni, nobody else makes much that will handle good. Leave the springs alone if the car is mainly street. Somebody will pipe up and suggest SFC, don't do it until you see how you like the bar and shocks.
Large bars in the front normally make a car understeer. But with the f-body you stop the roll and the camber at the front wheels stays in a better range, so you gain front traction, which makes the car more balanced and less tight.
This is all general suggestions, if you want to know how to setup f-bodies go to www.frrax.com and do some searching.
Z28
Re: "Tight" on accel......
.....Ahh... I see says the blind man! I plan on doing some dragging but, yes I am mainly a street setup.I was thinking of a 32mm front SB and a 27mm -? rear SB. I have heard of matching components, but I am un-educated on the subject. I'll check out the site.
What's the deal w/ the SFC's on a street car? And what's the diff. w/ the hollow vs. solid SB's?
Re: "Tight" on accel......
The hollow SB are much lighter than solid and are about 85% as stiff as a solid bar. The metal in the center doesn't do very much and add alot of weight. Not what you want on the street or drags.
32F/19R 35F/21R are good combs, nothing as large as your 27mm rear is a good idea on the road very tail happy.
The 19mm is a stock rear bar size.
The 32mm front came on the 1LE and some of the SS cars.
Here is the link for the 1LE bar $30.00
http://www.gyrhead.com/Catalog/Searc...26&VendorID=49
You will need the following parts to use the 32mm bar.
1LE Stabilizer Bar Endlinks (GM p/n 10221779) $7.05 (Need two)
1LE Front 32 mm Stabilizer Bar Insulator (GM p/n 10288551) $7.66 (Need two)
Prices will likely have gone up. GMpartsdirect.com is one source for them, some dealers will make you a good deal.
The 35/21mm is likely a better setup, but the 1LE is cheap.
1LE and good shocks will help the car alot in corners.
SFC seem to me to make little difference in the handling and made the ride stiffer. They also throw you into higher mod classes if you autocross. I have a hard top car. On a vert or T top they might help more. People buy them rather than shocks and a front bar. The shocks make the bigest difference, and people should do that first, but they blow their money on SFC and can't afford shocks and still don't like the way the car handles. I bought them because I intended to do everything to my car at once.
Once you have adjustable shocks you start to realize how much difference they make. I can twist a few dials and completely change the way the car feels. SFC can not and do not have that much effect on 4th gen.
Your money, you call it.
Z28
32F/19R 35F/21R are good combs, nothing as large as your 27mm rear is a good idea on the road very tail happy.
The 19mm is a stock rear bar size.
The 32mm front came on the 1LE and some of the SS cars.
Here is the link for the 1LE bar $30.00
http://www.gyrhead.com/Catalog/Searc...26&VendorID=49
You will need the following parts to use the 32mm bar.
1LE Stabilizer Bar Endlinks (GM p/n 10221779) $7.05 (Need two)
1LE Front 32 mm Stabilizer Bar Insulator (GM p/n 10288551) $7.66 (Need two)
Prices will likely have gone up. GMpartsdirect.com is one source for them, some dealers will make you a good deal.
The 35/21mm is likely a better setup, but the 1LE is cheap.
1LE and good shocks will help the car alot in corners.
SFC seem to me to make little difference in the handling and made the ride stiffer. They also throw you into higher mod classes if you autocross. I have a hard top car. On a vert or T top they might help more. People buy them rather than shocks and a front bar. The shocks make the bigest difference, and people should do that first, but they blow their money on SFC and can't afford shocks and still don't like the way the car handles. I bought them because I intended to do everything to my car at once.
Once you have adjustable shocks you start to realize how much difference they make. I can twist a few dials and completely change the way the car feels. SFC can not and do not have that much effect on 4th gen.
Your money, you call it.
Z28
Re: "Tight" on accel......
I got SFC's early on because I didn't want my t-top car to develop all the rattles people who don't run sfc's complain about, and they were FAR cheaper including installation than just the price of my shocks that I installed myself.
Re: "Tight" on accel......
talk to the guys over at frrax.com. they know what you want and i'm sure it's a stickey over there. the do all the auto cross stuff, so setting up their suspension isnt like the drag ideas over here. sam strano is probably the guy to call...he'll tell you what sway bars and shock/spring combo to use if you call. he'll tell you what you need based on what you want and how YOU drive. not what the majority of the BMR customers want or what Spohn thinks you need in suspension. he revalves shocks and does suspension for a living. he'll hook you up and you'll be wondering why you didnt call sooner.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



