Subframe Connectors...
Re: Subframe Connectors...
IMO it's not really a performance issue as much as a preserving the frame of the car issue. If you think about it, the added weight to the car would probably negate any slight improvement in the power transfer from engine to wheels...but you're not going to be screwing up the geometry of the frame with all those heavy load track passes. Not to mention the added comfort of not hearing the plastic parts rattleing...plus no ttop leaks. If I remember correctly, tl1 conv. all have SFCs...and let's face it, ttop lt1s are only a 1.5 foot long by 5 inch thick strip of body away from being a convertable.
Good luck mate!
-mj
Good luck mate!
-mj
Re: Subframe Connectors...
The fact that they prevent the chassis from flexing should allow for it to transfer the power to the ground quicker. How much well that I'm not really sure. Will your times improve? Probably not because you just added more weight to the car which slows the car down. Viscious cycle isn't it! I'd say get them and you'll be glad you did especially if you have T-tops.
Richard
Richard
Re: Subframe Connectors...
I was looking at the SLP Subframes for a while, but who else is good... or lighter rather? I'm only interested in the Diamond style. My car flexes allot... and some of the seems I sealed up have actually cracked apart because of this... expecially at the rear quarters...
Thanks!
Thanks!
Re: Subframe Connectors...
The only way I can see them improving 1/4 mile times, is if you are having traction problems, or you are trying to launch harder. I noticed after my sfc install that the car would hook better. So in that case it would help in 1/4 mile times. Lets face it in drag racing, weight transfer is very important. Especially when your making big power.
After my sfc's were put in my car, I was shocked. I read posts where people mentioned that they saw a big difference in the car. But I guess what shocked me, is how much chassis flex these cars had. Now my car has 83k on it, its a hard top, and from the looks of it, it wasnt raced by the previous owner. And let me tell you there were many situations I noticed where the sfc's aided the car/frame.
1. Closing The Doors. My doors never did sag. But I had to shut them pretty hard most of the times because they would shut all the way. After the sfc's they would shut much easier.
2. Traction. I have no suspenshion mods. Even with the drag radials I would still slip on the street, or when the street surface was cold. Now it seems as if the power is equaly is getting distributed to the rear axel. And if the tires would spin, it wasnt kicking the rear out like in the past.
3. Bumps, Railroad crossings, and overall normal driving. This is where I witnessed how much chassis flex the car had before sfc's. The chassis now seems to function as one solid unit. Normally the car would creak, or have strange rattles. 75% of it went away after the sfc's. And Im sure I would get rid of almost all of it, if I installed a set of strut tower braces.
Honestly, once you install yours, you wont have to drive long to notice the difference. My sfc's are nothing special, just a tubular sfc for 4th gens. There were no names on them, but they look just like the LG G2's. My friend who welded them in, knows metal fabricating pretty well. He actually built his own. And in his opinion, the best design he has seen so far are the SLP's.
Good Luck
After my sfc's were put in my car, I was shocked. I read posts where people mentioned that they saw a big difference in the car. But I guess what shocked me, is how much chassis flex these cars had. Now my car has 83k on it, its a hard top, and from the looks of it, it wasnt raced by the previous owner. And let me tell you there were many situations I noticed where the sfc's aided the car/frame.
1. Closing The Doors. My doors never did sag. But I had to shut them pretty hard most of the times because they would shut all the way. After the sfc's they would shut much easier.
2. Traction. I have no suspenshion mods. Even with the drag radials I would still slip on the street, or when the street surface was cold. Now it seems as if the power is equaly is getting distributed to the rear axel. And if the tires would spin, it wasnt kicking the rear out like in the past.
3. Bumps, Railroad crossings, and overall normal driving. This is where I witnessed how much chassis flex the car had before sfc's. The chassis now seems to function as one solid unit. Normally the car would creak, or have strange rattles. 75% of it went away after the sfc's. And Im sure I would get rid of almost all of it, if I installed a set of strut tower braces.
Honestly, once you install yours, you wont have to drive long to notice the difference. My sfc's are nothing special, just a tubular sfc for 4th gens. There were no names on them, but they look just like the LG G2's. My friend who welded them in, knows metal fabricating pretty well. He actually built his own. And in his opinion, the best design he has seen so far are the SLP's.
Good Luck
Re: Subframe Connectors...
MJ_Z28 ~ LT1 Convertibles have an X Brace underneath. Its located at the tail-end of the tranny, and if you have long tubes and an ORY, Its a bitch to get them under the brace, I had to make spacers out of aluminum tubing and use longer bolts.
I was thinking of SFC's as my next mod, them or RR's ... My car doesnt feel like it flexes anywhere near as much as what others have said their convertibles do. It feels rock solid over train tracks or whatever ...
Who makes SFC's for convertibles ? Are any bolt in? Whats better bolt in, or weld in ? Also how much roughly do SFC's weigh ???
I was thinking of SFC's as my next mod, them or RR's ... My car doesnt feel like it flexes anywhere near as much as what others have said their convertibles do. It feels rock solid over train tracks or whatever ...
Who makes SFC's for convertibles ? Are any bolt in? Whats better bolt in, or weld in ? Also how much roughly do SFC's weigh ???
Re: Subframe Connectors...
I personally like the Double Diamonds. Weld in paint and forget about them.
You can get them here: http://www.tbyrne.com/lt1catalog.html , and else where.
You can get them here: http://www.tbyrne.com/lt1catalog.html , and else where.
Re: Subframe Connectors...
Mine's a '94 with 183,000 miles, been autocrossed extensively on sticky tires and my tops don't leak and nothing really rattles. I'm sure it makes the car feel more solid on rough roads but IMHO it's not one of those "must have" items. I can't even run them in my class. I've heard all of the "doomsday" statements, tops leak, everything rattles, doors sag, etc, etc. and I've yet seen anyone prove them. FWIW, your doors are going to sag whether you have SFC's or not.
Re: Subframe Connectors...
On a side not for the guys having door sag... have you adjusted your Locks hinges? My door dropped abit... did some adjustments... problem solved... just rattled out of place... like everything else on the car.
Re: Subframe Connectors...
no your 1/4 mile times will not improve.
Car will handle better but u probably wont feel it..
You will most likely hear less rattles though.
BMR makes a good low cost piece. There tubular style tucks up real nice also.
Car will handle better but u probably wont feel it..
You will most likely hear less rattles though.
BMR makes a good low cost piece. There tubular style tucks up real nice also.


