I adjusted my pinion angle pretty well and tightend up the rear mount very tight. I hear a clunk but it is predictable and I think it is the front rod end and swinging plates that make the sound. it moves for a reason and I know they are moving under heavy load under there. I am going ot drive it and see if I can see any rubbing spots after driving it for a while. this is how I found how much clearance I needed for bigger rims in the back :-P I still need to add a TON of stuff to my suspension and have parts all stored away ready to go as soon as I can afford to have it off the road for a few days and have time to do the work. After all of that I might mess with the pinion angle more but irght now I actually think I have it dead on. it will hold until I change somthing else very soon. ..

 

after adjusting this mod correctly (pointing the pinion WAY down from the setting from their factory) It is good to have them adjust the tension of the rotating plates. if you load the suspension like the weight of the car is on the rear end and make sure it is ride height level. Using spohn instructioins to measure two angles and do some simple math. You have to end up at a -1 true pinion angle. Mine came out somthing like this... +2 - 3 = -1 You have to subtract the pinion from the drive shaft angle. +2 pinion - 3 and I came ot about the right spec on both measurements giving me the -1 I needed. It definately feels fine now. The knocking and "slack as Smokin94 mentioned .. It doesn't realy feel like somthing slamming as much as somthing hinging and some slack or somthing. It all feels tight to the ground and that is what matters. I can corner better then I ever could before and I can safely say that. I had to use a floor jack to get the torque arm itself (after being bolted solid to rear housing) up out of the way by a few inches.. I installed the cross member and adjusted the pinion angle down a little to get the front mount to meet up. Then from there on, with the bolt through, to make sure it wasn't too much tension on the bolt... I adjusted the pinion angle. Then I slid the bolt out of the front mount. It was a tight fit but the bolt still slid in and out and was not forced in and loading the suspension too much. I then clearanced the bolt because it gets damn close to my fuel lines... Then bolted it in nice and solid. it took pulling the torque arm down kidn of hard. Then made sure the rod end jam nut was on there good and tight as well. The front rod end was screwed in all the way anway. It had no need to come out using it's threads at all. It was so tight it just made the fit while it was screwed all the way in (with the jam nut still there). Everything lined up by the descriptions given by injuneer and spohn. I dont know how I could have done it any other way. I did do it wrong the first time and install the member to the front mount of the arm and get two bolts started on the member. then jam the other two on and pull it together tight. i had way too much drive line bind and my torque arm was pointing up! I was dumb for two days and did my research and figured it out. I am getting used to it and listening. Everything is consistant and acceptable at this point. I expect a rod end to be clunky but performance clunky