I was matching everything up on the slp sfc's and following the instructions, there is approximately a 5/8" gap between the sfc flange and the forward lower control arm mount where it is supposed to mate. Am I just a retard, or what is the deal with this? It is looking like I am going to have to tack weld 5/8" spacers on both sides to take up the gap. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Kelsey

 

do you mean the place where you jack up the car from on the sides? if so the guy who did mine hammered on the sfc's to get them in the right spot. He also used a jack to hold them flush to the body while he welded. hth
-b

 

I dont get what you are saying, the rear mount should have the LCA bolt through it.

the only place that there should be a gap is from the pinch rail of the body and the SFC, you may have to hammer the pinch to the SFC

but it shouldnt be more then 1/4" at most.

 

The slp's don't have a hole for the lca mount bolt, they bolt in from the bottom, exactly the same at their bolt-in ones. i'd just try to push them up with a jack, maybe also use a big hammer as bdc95ta said. everyone's car may be a little different than someone elses, so that's probably why.

 

could have fooled me, both sets of SLP weld ons I ordered right from SLP used the bolt from the forward mount of the LCA.

 

Oops. I only looked at the picture on their website, I don't have a set, I made my own based on the BMR design. just trying to help figure this out for the guy.

 

the SLP's are easy to mate up right, put that bolt through, and then hold the other end up with a jack stand, should line up perfectly.

 

How to mount (weld) the SFC's in place is something that concerns me.
* Do you level the body/frame before you weld the SFC's? If so, how do you level the body/frame?
* My concerns are: 1. if you have a car that is not level/square and you weld your new SFC's in place then you will always have a not level/out of square car. 2. if you raise the car and level/square the body/frame without the tires touching the ground then you should have a body/frame that is level/square and was not influenced by the suspension. At least this is how we set the static (not loaded) suspension. We would use blocks and screw jacks to set the level.
* I would like to know what kind of a shop to take a car to to have the SFC's welded to the body/frame? I heard mention of a muffler shop and my guess is you have a 50/50 chance of getting a quality welder or someone that knows frames and suspension.
Please let me know your suggestions especially ones with a guess-a-ment on cost. The next big thing I will do is Kenny Brown Double Diamond SFC's. I have a convertible and feel this is the most important improvement I will make with regards to the life of the car and handling. Since Relocation Brackets have to be welded I might add them at the same time as the SFC's. I want to add the SFC's and RB's and change the LCA's and PHB before I replace the springs and shocks with teh SLP package. Does anyone have a 3-point Strut Tower Brace? Does it bring vibration noise into the interior? Thanks for your suggestions and input.

 

Mine were the same way xride knows what he's talking about.

tomatocity: I went to a muffler shop and the guy had done quit a few. Used one of those drive up lifts. He also was carefull to move the fuel lines, bolted the rear and the middle, and then used a jack and hammer, before welding them up. Cost: $40.

Personally I think the slp's are better than the kdd's b/c of the welds.
-b

 

b, I wish I was in Houston so that guy could do mine. I need to find someone in the Sacramento, CA area that knows what they are doing and only charges $40. I also like SLP products but there price is much higher than the KBDD for the convertible SFC's. Have you seen the KB SFC's. I haven't seen either of the products. What is wrong with the KB welds?
-tim

 

SLP has very good welders, I had mine xrayed cause I know someone that does that, and they were all perfect.

To level the car, just make sure its the suspention thats holding the car up. Like said, the drive on kind or the pits are best.
If your car isnt square the only way to fix that is to pay a body shop at least 1000 to fix it.
if you cant tell, jsut weld it up, and make sure it stays that you cant tell.



also the welded relocation brackets arent always the best for every aplication, I'd make sure that the bolt on ones wouldnt work better. phoning the company that makes the reloacation brackets and tell them your plans and what you want from the car, and tehy will tell you what ones will be the best.
When I called I was told that the bolt in ones would be better for what I wanted.