i read on a autocrossing site that the lca need to be as parallel as possible u only need them on the bottom slot if ur drag racing. like everyone else said, put it in the normal slots see if that helps. I dont remember the site or else i would post it. So i bet that will help. Did u change ur shocks out when u lowered it?

 

Yes, I changed my shocks when I changed everything else. I think I'm going to move them to the middle hole tomorrow, and then go make sure my alignment is right. Hopefully this takes care of the problems.
Thanks for all your help guys, and sorry I flipped a while back.
Ben

 

the rear is a rear solid axle, it should not need aligning. but if you have a bent axle it may need alignments. or if you have adjustable lca's, the lca's may not be the same length. i have no real experience in lca's, but if they are not the same exact length, the axle will be twisted on a linear plane, and thus cause severe handling loss. if they arent adjustable, i have no clue as to why you have a loss in handling

 

I suggest retorquing all the bolts and getting an alignment. Even know the rear is a solid axle, it has been unbolted and parts have been changed. Atleast this way you will know that all 4 corners are equal measured. That's my .02 worth.

 

When I first had my LCAs and brackets installed, they were set in the lowest hole.

This gave great straight-line traction, but under quick turns, I experienced something similar--the rear end would take a bit longer to respond to the turn, then would snap around suddenly. Which is basically what one would expect, knowing how their level affects the suspension.

I recently had them put in the middle hole (one lower than stock), and that problem is gone now. It doesn't snap around corners anymore, just goes smoothly--plus straight-line traction is still great.

 

I installed weld in bmr relocation brackets had my car aligned went autocrossing in moroso and crashed! my rear felt very loose at any speed over like 75mph.in a straigh line, never felt like that before! I spun the rear sideways at 55 mph in third gear while acclerating. and my car is not that powerful! I wish I had not put brackets on or at least had time to do more driving before the track! mine are in the upper hole have not tried lower but most say it may handle worse. have you removed yours? I did nothing ealse to the car since last race.

 

Thank God, I thought I was the only person having this problem

Originally I had BMR springs and adj panhard on my 99 Z. It handled great and the ride was even better. Then I had BMR bolt-on LCA brackets installed, mainly because alot of my buddies were strongly advising me to do so to improve my traction on launches.

Now my rear end makes clunking noises and feels loose, just like Ben was saying. I'm just going to take my car back to the shop, remove the brackets and sell them on Ebay. Hopefully this will solve my problem

 

The bracket need to be welded in and if your car isn't lowered ya don't need them.If your LCA's are adjustable they need to be the same length as stock and the rear needs to be aligned. If they are not ya are good to go after welding the brackets.
The rear can get out of alignment if it is all adjustable.
The reason it's loose is look at the angle,when it rolls it severly shortens the LCA and pulls that wheel foward and causes roll steer,something like a Cat front end loader.
Like someone has already said the LCA's need to be flat or just a tad uphill looking from the back.
Another thing unless ya reset the pinion angle it is way WAY off with the LCA's in the low hole.

 

This sounds like a very strange problem to me. Maybe a month ago I put in my UMI relocation brackets...and I haven't had one of the se problems. My car still handles as good as it did before, and the traction has improved a great deal. I would either take them off or weld them in....I don't in any way see how they can just be bolted in.....i believe that could be your issue really. It reminds me of my 84 Regal I had...when i put the South side machine lift bars on it....when they were just bolted it acted the same way as you are describing. Once I welded them in, It was a whole new animal. Just food for thought really.

 

Guys this thread is almost 2 yrs old.

 

and i'll keep it goin...along with you guys i have a problem with my BMR RLB's and control arms. They squeak over bumps, hills, and curbs. The LCA's are non adj. Pro-Fab. How can i get rid of the noise over these bumps? I also have them set on the lowest hole.

 

Here's the honest deal. The looseness you feel in the car's handling is from having the aft end of the lca lower the front. For proper handling it needs to be level or have the aft slightly higher than the front.

What happened when you have the aft of the lca really low is in a turn you get roll oversteer. Because the lca's scribe an arc the axle will point itself to the outside of turn when cornering-thus making the car loose.

The opposite will happen if you have the aft higher than the front-roll understeer. Most autocrossers, myself included, set the car up with a little roll understeer-this adds stability when cornering and having a bit of roll understeer allows you to put power down early when you're exiting a turn.

Roll oversteer can be a dangerous situation. At the same time excessive roll understeer isn't desirable as well.

For best handling get the lca's as level as possible with just a bit of roll understeer-have the aft bolt slightly higher.

This is just one of the areas where a good drag setup kills handling.

 

Plus, did you say if they were poly bushings on both ends of the lca's?? If so, that's a problem too. The bushings will bind and cause sudden oversteer. Expecially nasty at speed.