firebirdStud

Yup,I searched, but it didn't pull up anything useful.
So, Now that I am getting the rear, tranny, and clutch, what lower control arms should be needed?
I know the stock with rubber bushings are junk.
I have the lakewood traction action bars, with the action deleted. Just running them at control arms now. I have read that with added HP that they hinder, not help, the suspension.
So, I am lookin for new ones. Are adjustable the way to go?
From what I gather, the solid, polly bushing on one end, and adjustable, rod end on the other is ideal. Why? Wont the rod end just wear out?
This is a daily driver, and it sees rain. Im not affraid to drive the car. I put on alot of miles in the summer. I dont drive it in the winter, MN salty roads are not cool.
I have read that having solid control arms with polly bushings bind the suspension. How much? Is it even enought to worry about? Its not like I am going rock climbing with my car, and I need the rear end to move in all sorts of crazy movements...
Basically, I want to buy these once, and not have to replace the expensive rod ends every year. That to me does not say "best option"
So, ideas? Comments? Suggestions? What works for you?
Im trying to weigh all the options, and see which one ends up right for me.
Thanks guys and gals, and vendors, lets hear your ideas!

firebirdStud

awe, for ****s sake. I posted in the wrong spot. Mods, help me out and move me?
Thanks.

Z-RATED94

I'm running what you are at this point. I too took the adj. rod and brackets off. Low 1.60s 60 ft. with stock shocks and lowering springs. Spohn TA, relocation brackets, and KB DD subframe connectors. How bad can the lower control arms be?

firebirdStud

yeah, well I am not sure. I was looking at those j and m ones now, the ones with rubber bushings on the outside and the polly center. They look funny, but should work. Not sure how long of a life they will have though...

TobyZ28

I upgraded from stock to the poly ball bushing ones and they were very very noticable driving. It was most noticable on moderate-fast turns, the rear just felt more stable and planted when it hit slight dips in the road.

As for longevity I can't really say. It hasn't been a year yet, but I'll inspect them when i get my relocation brackets put in next year. No squeeks at all btw

JakeRobb

Subscribing... because I expect to have the same needs eventually

firebirdStud

so toby, is this the one you are using now? Did you buy the whole thing from them, or just the bushings??
http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=134
They are a supporting vendor, so I know I can post this.
lol at jakrobb.. I do that all the time, suscribe to threads I will use in the future. A little knowledge goes a long way...

Capn Pete

FWIW, I've been running a set of Edelbrock boxed LCA's, non-adj., poly/poly ends, for ~4 years now, with no problems. They seemed to help plant the back end for solid launches at the track, etc. As for the suspension "binding" issue?? Well, I've gotten into doing track days (road racing) in the last ~3 summers, and have taken my car out onto the track with 100% factory suspension, with the exception of the boxed LCA's. The car seems to handle fine?!

NOW, I'm going with a full Sam Strano handling package for next season, because I've pretty much swung completely away from drag racing, and totally into road racing, so I want the best of the best, BUT, for average street driving, and esp. if you want something solid for drag racing? I think you're probably fine with a poly/poly LCA. But I'm not a suspension "expert", just talking from MY experience .

hotpart

You are correct the rod ends are considered a wear item. Our poly-ball control arms are designed reduce the bind over a standard 2 piece bushing and they work very well. We built a fixture a while back and tested the force needed to rotate the arm like the factory setup does and these are the results.

Poly-Ball Bushings

5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque

Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings

5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.

As for the durability of the bushings, we have never needed to replace a poly-ball setup and even if we did they have a lifetime warranty on them as long as you use the lube we supply with the control arms.

firebirdStud

wow Hotpart, this is awesome! Exactly what I was lookin for... So it truely is the best of drag racing and roadracing, and longevity?? Very nice. Now, can you just make them adjustable WITHOUT a rod end? That would be great!!!

firebirdStud

oh and capn, I agree. I have used the lakewood bars, with out the fancy crap for 4 years now, and they have performed very well. But, just looking to get the car set up and dialed in now, as I will have the dana 60 comin and mcleod clutch and rebuilt tranny. Too much money being spent this summer! AHH! hehe.

TobyZ28

I bought the whole LCA with poly ball bushings in both ends. I went from rubber -> poly ball so i cant really comment on the poly bushings vs typical polys. All i can say it was a huge difference and the stock bushings were not in all that bad a shape.

firebirdStud

hmm, very cool to know. thanks toby. Do you know of anyone else using these from hotpart?

camaroz28.fan

hotpart:

What's the main difference between the street version and the street/ race version that you sell ?

hotpart

Our street version uses our patent pending Poly-Ball bushings on both sides of the control arm and our street/race version uses our Poly-Ball bushings on the chassis side and a Teflon lined spherical bearing on the axle side.