romoranger

yesterday afternoon i installed my pa racing k-member so i figured i would report on it as it seems k-members have been a topic lately. I began the installation at 3pm, and ended at 11pm. granted i spent one hour driving to papa johns and back and then eating, and about 2 hours playing with my dog/helping girlfriend and running to the hardware store. i took my time and i guess total time invested was 5 hours, but i also welded gussets into mine and included that in my time.

it went really easy. definitely not the hard weekend job people talked about. directions are underneath. i recommend a friend if you are not very familiar with your f-body, and even if you are familiar there are a couple places where i had to use jacks as my friends; so i recommend using a friend (i didn't use a friend though, my dog kind of helped out by hiding my sockets)

before starting purchase 7 7/16" x 1inch bolts with matching nuts and washers to hold motor mounts onto the new crossmember
you will also need 4 new bolts to hold up k-member as the stock ones are way too long. i do not know their sizes, mine came with them

1.jack up car, remove front wheels.
2.remove steering rack (two bolts on kmember), remove tie rods ends
3. from LCA; next take steering shaft out of rack with 11mm bolt.
4. pull rack loose and zip tie up (i used the a/c lines and some other ones on the drivers side).
5. remove lower A-arms, leave shock attached *note: if you are working by yourself (as i did), when it comes time to reinstall the control arm its easier to put back if you undo the two bolts that go from LA-arm to shock. If you have a friend don't worry about this
6. Use a jack with a 2x6 that supports under oil pan AND front of tranny bell housing. i configured the jack so that the handle was coming out near the rear tire so it would not be in the way. You can use a shop crane, i have one but decided this would take way less time and effort. If you use crane attach to front of heads, so you must take off all the crap in the front, although i would never want to put stress on two bolts inside aluminum heads.
7. take the motor mount bolt off of each side (15m and 19mm, i think)
8. use 18mm socket and take the 6 k-member bolts out. four are above behind the shock, the other two are right next to the the Rear LA-arm mounting point. pry out k-member. it will crash on floor after working both sides
9. at this point i gusseted my k-member. if you do watch your heat and be sure not to warp it. also remove the motor mount housings from stock k-member and use the 7/16" bolts to hold them on your new one
10. put new k-member up. you will have to go side to side tightening bolts, checking clearances on your headers (i have pacesetters LT and it would hit on the passenger side until it was all the way up).
*watch where the caliper swings on the LA-arm when you are doing this. my caliper's banjo bolt got jammed against it (i have ls1 brakes) as i was putting it up and my caliper made a popping/hissing noise and fluid came out. a sledgehammer got it unstuck and it still seems to work ok, but i will look at it in further depth later.
11. when your motor mounts line up as you are tightening k-member, do yourself a favor and insert the bolt. my passenger side slipped in, my driver side spent some time with a ball peen hammer and a 5lb engineers hammer(i use hammers wherever i can).
12. install lower A-arms all the way. if you are by yourself remove the lower shock bolts makes it easier, just be sure to reinstall them
13. cut zip ties, install steering rack, install steering shaft
14. zip tie brake lines (i have an old version of the k-member, mine is a couple years old, new ones i guess have mounts built in)

Done! just note that i have no emissions on my vehicle and no front sway bar, if you have these things taking that sway bar off is a good idea, and you might need to remove you air pump (not sure though).

i'll try to get some pictures of my gussets up. i'm really just proud of the way the welds look

i found the two sheetmetal tabs behind the k-member that the factory used to pull car on assembly line. anyone know if i can winch my car up from these? i am thinking about reinforcing them because i don't think i want to winch off this k-member, even though PA told me it was ok

hopefully some folks find this useful and that it may dispel some of the myths about how hard this procedure is. be sure to get an alignment!

Boostwhat

Where did you weld in the gussets? PICS? Thanks, Derek

romoranger

i welded them in the corners in the front. here are some pictures

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...r/P1010131.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...P1010133-1.jpg

right there in the corners right underneath the oil pan. i really just did it in case i ever had to winch from it, and it just seemed like a spot that could use, i am not sure how much force is exerted on it while driving though

stkdriver1376

I was just wondering why you changed your K member in the first place.
Was the New one lighter???? Is it a chrome moly one??

I have a 94 Camaro V6 and want to put a V8 in it, and make it a Drag car Do i have to change the K member would you know?????

How much did this pa one cost also????

Thx

Pete

1970z28

if you are going from a v6 to a v8 you will have to swap out stock k-members. the aftermarket k-members are lighter to.

romoranger

i swapped it mostly for extra clearance when doing work down there, but the weight savings are a benefit. i only paid 150 for it from a friend, i am not sure how much they are new.

kandied91z

about 3x that price.