I'm going to assume that wheel hop is more likely to occur with 3.73s then with 2.73s, right? I recently changed the gears and now noticed what I think is wheel hop when accelerating. I'm still in the new gears "break in" mode, so haven't been heavy on the throttle yet after the install.

I noticed going around 40 mph, if I lay into the gas somewhat hard, it feels like the wheels are stuttering..almost the feeling as if the wheels were some Flintstone square wheels or something.

Also, I think it's wheel hop b/c my rear LCA angle is off. I haven't lowered my car, but I think it's just the sag of an 11 year old car. Looking from the side, the "axle side" of the LCA is definitely higher than the "chassis side". I've heard 2 degree lower or even parallel is where you want to be. What I see is a prime candidate for wheel hop. I guess I never noticed before with the 2.73s, but now I think the 3.73s that extra torque in the rear is making it noticeable.

I'm going to get some relo brackets and new rear LCA (spherical busings) soon, but any issue of driving with the rear LCA angled the wrong way?

 

You already have aftermarket lower control arms? I can't tell from your SIG whether you do or dont. It sort of looks like you do. If you dont, then get those first.

Perhaps you need to look at the pinion angle and the torque arm. LCA relocation brackets are certainly helpful, but I doubt that the sole source of your wheelhop is just the location of the LCA mounting point on your axle.

You should also make sure that panhard rod is up to snuff, along with your transmission crossmember mount.

 

Yes, I do have aftermarket BMR boxed LCAs. But right now, the "axle" end of the LCA is higher than the "body" end of the LCA. Isn't that bad?

Shouldn't it be the other way around....axle end is LOWER then body end?

 

Yes, it's not optimal. However I have about two inch difference between my new Moser axle and the frame of my lowered car. I dont have axle hop. The only time I ever had axle hop was on the hot, sticky, VHT coated surface of Memphis Motorsports park when I butchered a run and got the whole car out of shape.

Go ahead and give the brackets a try, it can't hurt. I've got a set on my old axle housing, and I'm going to be cutting them off and reansferring them to the new axle to improve anti-squat, which is a term for the forces that keep the rear from sitting down on the axle. Antisquat also helps place effective weight onto the tires to improve traction. I'm just thinking that there might be something else in your setup that is contributing to the wheel hop.

 

Well, first off I'm guessing it's wheel hop. What would wheel hop feel like when you're in the driver seat when it happens. I felt it one time (with 2.73s) in the rain...just felt like this bump bump on the back.

The feeling I have right now...not always, just some times, is something like the wheels are not round...kinda that lumpy feeling.

Can you describe how wheel hop would feel like from the driver's seat.

I'll probably still get the relo brackets, just to get the axle side level or lower then the body side.

 

My wheelhop went BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! and the car skipped around. I also felt it straight up through the powertrain as the engine went nuts. Then the pinion ate a spacer, spat the hardened steel guts into the bottom of the differential, and started whining.


Try boosting your rear tire pressure and see if the feeling changes. Lumpy doesn't sound like wheelhop to me. I'd put it on jackstands, and check the transmission mount and the torque arm mount to make sure they are intact.

 

In that case, this is not wheel hop...I've had that BAM, BAM, BAM wheelhop before in the rain..and that was definitely different...and much scarier. I drove again today and paid more attention to it...it feels like it's coming from the front wheels..mostly passenger side.

Is there such a thing as wheel hop on the front wheels? Are my bushings or ball joints just going bad?

 

could be a wheel bearing up front... does it kinda thump?

and you can hear the wheel kinda turning if you are driving and you turn the steering wheel left or right?

 

I might be totally wrong but it it has been my experience that on a traction limited car, having the lower control arms actually lower in the front and having the upper control arms also pointing down in front so the instant center of the chassis is about an inch or two below ground and about 60 inches out would probably help you out a bunch. If you're wheel hopping with a setup like this then I would suspect your rear shocks are extending too easily.